How to Grow and Care for Gaillardia (Blanket Flowers)

Gaillardia spp.

Of all the wildflowers I’ve worked with, Gaillardia is the one to never disappoint me.

It puts on an effortless and long-lasting show of bright, lovely foliage for almost the entire growing season, and it seems only to require my admiration and endless fawning to keep on keepin’ on.

I have to be honest about something else… I am highly biased towards Gaillardia.

Not only is it a lovely flower that puts on a nonstop performance, it’s also the first plant my wife and I grew together from seed.

Vertical image of red and yellow Gaillardia flowers, with green stems and leaves, printed with red and white text.

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It’s got a special place in my heart, so if my admiration for this colorful perennial seems a little biased… it is!

As long as you’ve got the right place in your garden for it (hint: hot and dry), Gaillardia will put in its work and produce a show that’s guaranteed to turn heads.

Here’s what’s ahead in this article:

Keep reading to see what makes this colorful and carefree flower worth a place in your own garden.

A Little History on a Native Flower

Gaillardia is also known commonly as “blanket flower,” a reference to the bright and vivid colors reminiscent of the traditional textile patterns of certain groups of Native Americans.

The plant earned its botanical name from eighteenth-century French magistrate M. Gaillard de Charentonneau. He served as a patron for botanists and is now remembered with a lovely plant bearing his name.

Closeup of a single yellow and red Gaillardia blossom, surrounded by variegated thyme in the garden.
Photo by Matt Suwak.

Although we use Gaillardia as a general name for this flower, there are three greater species we should take a look at to make sure we’re all on the same page:

  • Gaillardia Pulchella: Native to the Southeastern US all the way west to Colorado and down south to Mexico, G. pulchella is often grown as an annual.
  • Gaillardia Aristata: A native of prairies across the Americas, G. aristata is a perennial form of blanket flower.
  • Gaillardia x Grandiflora: A hybridized cross between G. pulchella and G. aristata, G. x grandiflora is likely the plant you’ll encounter most commonly at garden centers.

Except for the distinction between one plant tending to be an annual while the other tends to return for several years as a perennial, all three species have similar requirements for growth and health.

Closeup image of a bee pollinating red and yellow blanket flowers, with a green foliage background in soft focus.
Photo by Matt Suwak.

Let’s dig in!

Blanket Flowers Don’t Need Much to Thrive

It’s no secret that I’m a fan of flowers that take care of themselves, and blanket flowers fit this bill perfectly.

In fact, this is the kind of plant that might suffer under too loving a hand.

This is a species that is nourished by neglect, and that thrives in sunny, dry, and rocky conditions. Don’t worry about specially prepping your beds for these flowers, just toss ‘em into that dry hillside where nothing else will grow.

A large cluster of tall blanket flowers with red and yellow petals and centers, long stems, and green leaves, leaning over a cement sidewalk, in front of a brick house.
Photo by Matt Suwak.

The blanket flowers in my front yard are beautiful, but they flopped over this year and lay prostrate on the ground, reaching for the sky. Nearest I can tell, this happened for one of two reasons:

  1. I fertilized the plants in the spring and they grew leggy and floppy in response.
  2. They weren’t receiving enough direct sunlight.

Unfortunately, the sunlight I get in the front of the house isn’t quite substantial enough for Gaillardia to be at its best. These plants really want all the sun they can get to reach their best heights.

They also don’t like being fertilized. In fact, they chafe at it and, like other native and naturalized plants such as yarrow or black-eyed Susans, will respond by growing leggy.

But What About Water?

My blanket flowers have survived the entire summer season with only rainfall to sustain them.

These flowers naturally thrive in dry and porous soils, and tend not to need extra or additional watering. If a prolonged drought is in the forecast it wouldn’t hurt to water them, but again, they’re likely to survive everything but the most extreme drought conditions.

In fact, root rot can be an issue with Gaillardia if you’re following a regular watering schedule. These plants are more susceptible to “wet feet” than many other garden plants, so adding them to an established and irrigated bed requires careful planning.

A cluster of yellow and red blanket flowers with green leaves, growing in a garden bed topped with gravel, with succulents in the background.
Photo by Matt Suwak.

The best solution I’ve found is to plan your garden around the concept of xeriscaping, a gardening technique that relies on minimal water use. This is achieved by selecting plants like blanket flowers that are highly resistant to drought, and building your garden strategically.

A great many plants thrive in these conditions, responding with beautiful blooms and a carefree growing habit. Best of all, they have minimal soil pH requirements – so if you’ve got a hot and rocky yard full of poor quality soil, you can still have an exquisite garden!

Fertilizing Your Flowers

This is really easy: don’t fertilize these plants!

The flowers need very little to survive and prosper. Really.

Red and yellow blanket flowers growing with lavender and clover in a garden bed.

I made the mistake of fertilizing mine the previous spring, and was rewarded with leggy and flopped-over flowers. Not ideal.

At most, your blanket flowers will need a light layer of compost in the springtime to get the growing season started.

And What About Maintenance?

This is the best part about blanket flowers. Hold onto your socks, fellow gardeners, because this is beautifully simple and straightforward.

Cut back your Gaillardia in the late fall to a height of about six inches, and dispose of the material.

During the growing season you can deadhead the flowers, but you don’t need to; the seed heads are attractive in their own right and the local wildlife seems to enjoy eating them up.

Gaillardia, echinacea, and other plants growing in the garden.
Blanket flowers are perfect for less manicured gardens. Photo by Matt Suwak.

Individual plants tend to survive for a period of two to three years before they die out.

Save yourself some heartache and divide them at the two-year mark. You’ll get two plants out of the deal, and help ensure their extended life.

The only possible headache you’ll encounter is the eagerness of blanket flowers to move and spread beyond their original territory.

This is a self-seeder, and plenty of seeds means plenty of flowers. If you’re trying to keep things tidy, you’ll need to weed out volunteer flowers a few times a season.

What Kind of Pests and Diseases Should I Watch Out For?

Gaillardia is remarkably tolerant to diseases and pests. Most wildlife tends to ignore these, so deer and rabbits tend not to be an issue. And there are few insects that cause troubles directly.

The primary issues gardeners will encounter with blanket flowers are powdery mildew, aster yellows, and fungal leaf spot.

Powdery mildew and fungal leaf spot can be controlled with smart watering and an application of antifungal sprays as needed, but aster yellows is a sickness that requires immediate disposal of the infected plant.

A pink coneflower beside another that is being grasped by a hand also holding garden pruners, illustrating that the grasped specimen has asters yellow disease and displays a green hue throughout, with more flowers in the background and a cement pathway.
This photo of an Echinacea flower infected with aster yellows is a good example of the green, malformed flowers used for identifying this virus. Photo by Matt Suwak.

It is a disease spread by aphids and leafhoppers, themselves not destructive to blanket flowers, but capable of carrying this fatal disease.

Watch for stunted flowers with a green color to spot aster yellows. If plants in your garden have this, you need to yank them and toss them into the garbage to avoid spreading this infection. Do not add infected plant waste to your compost pile.

Companion Plantings

Because they love the same conditions, blanket flowers do well with echinacea, black-eyed Susans, salvia, sedum, herbs, and shrubs like like juniper and heather. Some varieties of heuchera are great options too!

A purple coneflower and red and yellow blanket flowers, with seed heads and green foliage.
Photo by Matt Suwak.

As far as annuals go, consider bright and showy flowers like marigolds and lantana to work with your blanket flowers, or use the darker hues of Persian shield, annual salvia, and some types of vinca flowers to provide contrast.

How to Start Growing

Like almost everything else in the garden, you’ve got two options for starting your Gaillardia: starting by seed or with a containerized plant.

Red and yellow gaillardia growing in the garden, with green leaves, leaning over a mulched path.
Photo by Matt Suwak.

The process for planting established seedlings and live specimens of various sizes is identical to that of just about every other containerized plant. Carefully remove the plant from the container and rough up the roots, then plop it into a hole.

Make sure the soil fills the hole to about a half inch or so above the ground level; it will eventually settle, and this little mounding process helps eliminate problems with root rot and overwatering.

Vertical image of red and yellow blanket flowers with narrow green leaves, growing in the garden.
Photo by Matt Suwak.

If you’re growing from seed, you’re in luck. Unlike many other flowers started from seed, Gaillardia is likely to flower in its first year. Talk about instant gratification!

Start the seeds in an appropriate container with three per cell, and very lightly cover them with a fine layer of soil or seed starting planting medium.

Blanket flower seeds need light to germinate, so a light covering of soil and a good misting is all you need. Seeds will germinate in two to three weeks.

Red and yellow Gaillardia, purple Echinacea, and yellow seed heads on long stems in the garden.
Photo by Matt Suwak.

We luckily have an excellent guide to starting your own seeds that covers all of the finer points!

If you’ve harvested blanket flower seeds from the plants in your garden, you’ll be able to toss them into a dry envelope for next year, or you can start sowing right away.

The Best Types (and Where to Find Them)

Because blanket flowers start so readily from seed, most of what I suggest from our trusted affiliates will be in seed form. But fret not! If you’re impatient like an inpatient, we’ve got some live plants for you to get started with as well.

Overhead closeup of a red and orange G. aristata flower.

G. Aristata Seeds

Seeds are available for G. aristata via True Leaf Market, and you won’t be disappointed with this plant!

This is the type growing in my own garden, and it’s an exceptional species. They started blooming nonstop for me in a part-sun environment starting in early May. Maybe it was a fluke, but I’m alright with that!

I started my seeds indoors and transplanted them several times, dividing the plants at the second year mark to ensure their continued survival.

My wife wants to transplant the perennials to our new home, but these seeds take so easily I think we’re be safe to take the seeds alone!

Want a shot at the other half of the G. x grandiflora parental plant unit? Try these seeds for G. pulchella from True Leaf Market, the annual version of this lovely flower.

Yellow and orange 'Indian Blanket' Gaillardia flowers in bright sunlight.

G. Pulchella ‘Indian Blanket’ Seeds

The colors are comparable to those of G. aristata but this plant will not remain as a perennial in your garden beds. That makes it more manageable than some of the perennial varieties that are eager to spread!

Mix these in with some lantana, salvia, and sweet alyssum for a long-term annual show of color.

A bee is pollinating a 'Mesa Yellow' blanket flower, in bright sunshine.

‘Mesa Yellow’ Seeds, available from True Leaf Market

If you like a more monochromatic look to your flowers, consider the Mesa Yellow. It is a hybrid form that promises a long show of single-tone yellow color. It grows to a height of about 18 inches, so it’s pretty tame compared to others in this species.

This variety is cold hardy to zone 5, so it’s still a great option for many gardeners in all but the coldest growing regions! You’ll get 100 seeds per package, more than enough to start your own stand of Gaillardia.

Pom-pom-like yellow and red 'Sundance Bicolor' blanket flowers, with green foliage in the background.

‘Sundance Bicolor’ Seeds, available from True Leaf Market

Sundance Bicolor is a cultivar I have admittedly not worked with, but boy is it a showy flower! It has a similar texture to some zinnias and marigolds, so it’s a great option for mixing into beds of these flowers.

It’s a relatively under control height as well, standing at about 12 inches max, and the dual colors it shows off are appealing and easily tied to other plants in the garden.

Square overhead closeup image of a yellow and red 'Arizona Sun' blanket flower with green leaves.

‘Arizona Sun’ Live Plants and Seeds, available from Burpee

Arizona Sun is really lovely, and it’s one of the first Gaillardia cultivars I encountered. With a striking two-tone color, it’s excellent for filling a space since it likes to grow into large and unrestrained clumps.

Expect it to reach heights just shy of a foot and with a larger natural spread, about 15 inches or so. This variety can grow in zones 3-10, making it another excellent option for gardeners living further north!

Overhead closeup shot of a pink and white 'Punch Bowl' hybrid blanket flower.

‘Punch Bowl’ Seeds, available from Burpee

I haven’t grown the Punch Bowl cultivar yet, but I’m about to order some seed to try this one out. It’s a perfectly fitting name for this colorful  – but not too flashy  – flower. This is one of those rare finds that stopped me in my tracks and immediately grabbed my attention.

It will grow into a bushy plant, up to 16 inches high with a matching spread, and it’s a solid choice to pair with your lavender.

If live plants are more up your alley, we have options for you!

The Sun Devil is an excellent choice for a short edging plant. It reaches a relatively tiny height of about four inches, and is a bit more restrained in its growing habit than other blanket flowers.

Those twisted petals offer a nice complement to other blooms in the garden, like Gerber daisies and certain dahlias. The mostly red tone of this flower makes it easier to blend into most gardens.

Overhead image of several blooming 'Arizona Apricot' gaillardia flowers, being pollinated by bees.

Reaching heights of about twelve inches, the Arizona Apricot is quite lovely, and offers another relatively monochrome color option.

I’ve seen this particular species used to great effect with Stella D’Oro daylilies and some dark purple petunias. Give it a shot if you’ve got some deeply saturated hues in your garden that need a warm yellow for contrast to tie things together.

Give It a Go!

If I haven’t convinced you by now, nothing will! Your next step is to give these flowers a chance by placing them in your garden.

If you don’t have a hot and dry spot, consider throwing these bad boys into a container. Because they love hot and dry conditions, you can mix these into your container plantings with abandon, and you’ll rarely need to check their condition.

A large red and yellow blanket flower surrounded by smaller blossoms and green foliage, in bright sunshine.
Photo by Matt Suwak.

This is a plant that’s very easy to grow, as long as it receives the harsh type of neglect that’s required to prosper. Give it a shot, and you’ll be thanking me for the opportunity.

Reach out to us in the comments section below; I love to hear from readers and look forward to what you have to share. Thanks so much for reading, and check back soon for more from Gardener’s Path!

And for more Gaillardia flower care advice, check out these guides:

Photos by Matt Suwak © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via True Leaf Market, and Burpee. Uncredited photos via Shutterstock. With additional writing and editing by Allison Sidhu.

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About

Matt Suwak was reared by the bear and the bobcat and the coyote of rural Pennsylvania. This upbringing keeps him permanently affixed to the outdoors where most of his personal time is invested in gardening, bird watching, and hiking. He presently resides in Philadelphia and works under the sun as a landscaper and gardener, and by moonlight as a writer. An incessant questioning of “Why?” affords him countless opportunities to ponder the (in)significance of the great and the small. He considers folksy adages priceless treasures and is fueled almost entirely by beer and hot sauce.

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Bart
Bart (@guest_8255)
3 years ago

Will my gallardias be happy in this planter

15928357785635942784601028419577.jpg
Marilyn tams
Marilyn tams (@guest_8767)
3 years ago

Gaillardia in my garden has got so big it has split itself in two and one side is still in soil and second half looking very sad. What do I do???

Lorna Kring
Lorna Kring(@lornakring)
Gardening Writer
Reply to  Marilyn tams
3 years ago

Sounds like an opportune time to divide your plant Marilyn! Does the sad side still have roots in the soil? if not, cut the topside back to six inches, and cut away the exposed root section with a sharp knife, leaving the top attached to the roots. If the roots are still viable, pot up in a container, water deeply and cover with a light topdressing of compost. Set the pot in a full sun location unless it’s really hot – if so, give it some light afternoon shade. Provide it with a sheltered spot over winter and plant out… Read more »

Bob
Bob (@guest_9253)
3 years ago

Thanks for the information. This is my first season growing Mesa Peach Gaillardia in an East-facing bed next to my house. They’re doing fairly well, though one plant is smaller than the others and is a much lighter shade of green. I’ve made a few mistakes based on what I’ve read here, namely, fertilizing the plants and watering them too often (though it has been a very hot summer here in Maryland). My question is related to cutting them back in the fall… do I just need to bring the height down to 6″ or do I also need to… Read more »

Lorna Kring
Lorna Kring(@lornakring)
Gardening Writer
Reply to  Bob
3 years ago

Your hunch is spot on Bob!

Cut down in size and also reduce the width to six to eight inches – cleaning up and removing any damaged stems at the same time. This will help to promote a strong, bushy plant next year.

Thanks for your question!

Prachi Panwala
Prachi Panwala (@guest_9335)
3 years ago

I just bought this Sunrita blanket flower for my porch and I have potted in my small 8” pot. Is that size okay for just one plant? I may switch it to a bigger pot if it’s not the right size. Thanks and let me know.

795F3C04-F1D2-4998-8F51-1645EDE9ACD4.jpeg
Lorna Kring
Lorna Kring(@lornakring)
Gardening Writer
Reply to  Prachi Panwala
3 years ago

Your pot is a little on the small side Prachi.

Sunrita’s have a mature height of 14 to 20 inches with a spread of 12 to 18 inches, and they’re vigorous. A single plant would do better in a 10 to 12 inch container to support the full size.

But your plant’s looking good, so I suggest waiting to transplant until early next spring. You can cut it back for the winter and reduce watering, then give it roomier accommodation just as new growth starts to show.

Thanks for asking!

Barb Ridge
Barb Ridge (@guest_10149)
3 years ago

I have a plant in a container. Will it winter over alright in that? Should I put it in the garage or shed?

Allison Sidhu
Allison Sidhu(@allison-sidhu)
Reply to  Barb Ridge
3 years ago

We’re working on a guide to overwintering blanket flowers right now – stay tuned for that!

The short answer is that this depends in part on where you’re gardening. While the earth provides extra insulation for overwintered plants, container-grown flowers will usually require some extra protection in cooler zones. Deadheading, covering with mulch, and then placing in an unheated place like the garage should help to carry your plant through the winter.

Diana
Diana (@guest_12917)
2 years ago

Mine love their austere location under my mailbox on a gravel road with no water. They just keep blooming and blooming gorgeous flowers all summer long and into fall as well!!!

Step885
Step885 (@guest_13159)
2 years ago

You convinced me!