How to Plant and Grow Rhubarb

Rheum rhabarbarum

I have faint memories of a neighbor woman down the street from our house in Northern California sharing great bundles of homegrown rhubarb with our family when I was quite wee.

That was approximately 300 years ago, and I don’t think I’ve heard much about rhubarb since.

I suppose smarter people than I have expounded on why this sour vegetable has fallen out of favor, but if I were to hazard a guess, I might lay the demise of its popularity at the feet of our sweet-obsessed culture.

Top down view of freshly harvest rhubarb stalks in a wicker basket.

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Rhubarb, whose edible stalks sort of look like rosy celery, is tart. Extraordinarily tart. Think Granny Smith apple times 100.

This vegetable/fruit (hang on – we’ll explain in a minute) is almost never eaten raw. It’s often baked into a pie or cobbler with something close to five pounds of sugar.

Vertical image of a small rhubarb plant with skinny pink and yellow stems and large green leaves, growing against a beige stucco wall in brown soil topped with leaves and wood chip mulch.
Photo by Gretchen Heber.

Okay, just kidding, but you get the point.

The truth is, those who aren’t in the known about this stalky homegrown treat are missing out. And you, too, can grow it in your own garden.

Let’s take a look at the best methods to grow it, and some delicious culinary suggestions for getting the most out of your harvest.

Here’s what’s to come:

But first, back to that fruit or vegetable thing…

Fruit, Vegetable, Fregetable?

Botanically a vegetable, rhubarb is often referred to as a fruit because, culinarily, that’s how we use it.

Apparently, the US Customs Office even legally declared rhubarb a fruit in the 1940s — something to do with import taxes and that’s basically how it was used in cooking anyway. But again, technically it’s a vegetable.

Whatever you call it, here’s an important factoid we want to get out there before we get too far into this guide:

This plant’s leaves are poisonous. Way poisonous. So don’t eat them.

Closeup of a rhubarb plant shot from below, angled up towards skinny pink stems and large green leaves, with a bright white sky in the background and brown soil at the base of the stalks.

As soon as you harvest the stalks, cut the leaves off and throw them away where neither human nor beast can get to them.

The root and rhizome of the plant are okay to ingest, however, and have been used as a medicinal plant in Asia — where it is native — for around 5,000 years, if not longer.

In fact, modern natural-medicine adherents around the world sometimes use rhubarb to address digestive issues such as constipation, diarrhea, and heartburn. Rhubarb is also used by some to treat cold sores.

Plant a Pie

Hardy and treated as a perennial in zones 3-8, gardeners in southern zones sometimes have luck growing R. rhabarbarum as an annual, though our brutal heat can make it tough to get a harvest in before the plants burn up.

Rhubarb, aka “pie plant,” also needs extended temperatures below 40°F during the cold season, which some Southern zones just don’t get.

Closeup of a pink rhubarb bud just starting to open, with pink and white cauliflower-like flowers, against a green background.

Though it won’t typically survive multiple seasons in southern climes, it can be grown as a winter annual in the south. Be sure to give plants extra protection from the summer sun in these areas, and plant in an section of the garden with afternoon shade.

This plant grows to 2 to 3 feet tall and spreads 3 to 4 feet. On up to 5-foot stalks, the plant produces flowers that, in their nascent stage, resemble pink-tinged cauliflower. They gradually unfurl into great clouds of white.

Vertical image of a fluffy rhubarb flower, green-white and reminiscent of cauliflower or astilbe.

While it is generally recommended to cut off flower buds to increase stalk production, some gardeners opt to allow the flowers to bloom, for beauty’s sake or to eat, as the flowers are edible, too.

Plants or Heirloom Seeds (And Where to Buy)

If you want to add R. rhabarbarum to your garden, your best bet is to “borrow” a crown from a neighbor, or purchase a small plant.

Since plant division is typically not an option in hotter regions where rhubarb cannot be grown as a perennial, it must be grown from seed in these USDA Hardiness Zones.

Don’t be concerned if the resulting stalks are more green than red – even though this plant is a bit like apples and other food crops that don’t grow true to the original cultivar from seed, they’ll still be delicious.

Extra-large ‘Crimson Red’ roots are available from Burpee. With plump, tender, sweet and tart stalks that max out at 24 to 36 inches, this is a non-stringy variety that’s winter hardy.

Overhead closely cropped square image of leafy 'Crimson Red' rhubarb planted in brown soil.

‘Crimson Red’ Rootstock

‘Crimson Red’ does best in USDA Hardiness Zones 3-8.

Another excellent option is ‘Chipman’s Canada Red.’ This cultivar is said to have a sweeter flavor than some other types.

A medium-sized 'Chipman's Canada Red' rhubarb plant growing in a black plastic container, with large, broad green leaves and skinny pinkish red stems, growing in a greenhouse surrounded by other, shorter plants.

‘Chipman’s Canada Red’ Live Plant

Live plants in #2 containers are available from Nature Hills Nursery.

If you’d like to try your hand at cultivating some heirloom seeds, consider the open-pollinated strain ‘Victoria,’ available via True Leaf Market.

Closeup of 'Victoria' rhubarb with pink stalks and broad green leaves.

‘Victoria’ Open-Pollinated Heirloom Seeds

You’ll get a packet of 500 seeds that produce heavily.

Oblique overhead square image of 'Victoria' rhubarb with reddish green stalks and green leaves.

‘Victoria’ Live Plants and Rootstock

Packages of 2 roots or 6 ‘Victoria’ live plants are available from Burpee, where this cultivar is known as a customer favorite that’s excellent for cooking, with a sweet, mild flavor. The stalks are more green and less red than other cultivars, more of a blush color, and these plants do well in zones 3-8.

Before It Is Eaten, It Wants to Eat

A heavy feeder, rhubarb likes well-drained, deep, fertile soil that’s high in organic matter. Soil with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5 is best.

It will tolerate some shade, but produces the best yields in full sun. And it likes plentiful, consistent moisture.

If drainage in your intended planting zone is less than ideal, plant each R. rhabarbarum seedling in its own little hill, so water drains away from the crown.

Top-down shot of a rhubarb plant with yellow and pink stalks, and large green leaves, growing in brown soil.

In its intended zones with cooler winters, rhubarb should be planted in the springtime. Sow seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before the average last frost, after soaking them in water for a few hours.

Southern gardeners who wish to grow seeds should plant them indoors in mid- to late August.

Place two seeds to each pot, ¼-inch deep in 4-inch pots filled with a good potting or seed-starting mix. Keep them indoors at room temperature until they sprout, and then move them to a bright window.

A rhubarb plant is growing in the garden, with pink stalks oriented in a circular formation around the crown, topped with large, ruffled fan-shaped green leaves.

When the seedlings reach 2 inches tall, move them outdoors to a shady location to begin to harden off. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy. After a couple weeks, move them to a brighter location with morning sun.

They can be transplanted to a sunny spot in the garden when they’re about 4 inches tall and have three to five leaves each, after the risk of frost has passed. In hotter southern zones, this should be done in late September or early October.

Potted seedlings should be transplanted at the same depth at which they are growing in their pots. Plant bare-root crowns 1-2 inches below the soil surface.

Pink rhubarb stalks are visible beneath large, green leaves growing in bright filtered sunshine.

Space plants 3 feet apart, so they will have room to spread.

Whether you plant in the spring or fall, add a thick layer of mulch to the growing area.

Oh, and some gardeners have had luck growing this veggie in containers as well. So that’s something to consider if your landscape is full up, or otherwise unsuitable.

You’ll want to start with a fairly large container, and plan to divide often.

Divide and Water

R. rhabarbarum appreciates constant moisture, but doesn’t want soggy soil. If you live in the Pacific Northwest, no supplemental water will likely be required. Southerners will have to engage the irrigation system regularly to keep the moisture consistent.

Early in the plants’ second spring, apply ½ cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer in a circle around your plants, taking care not to apply directly to the crown, which can burn it.

Vertical image of large rhubarb leaves growing in a circle with smaller stalks and developing leaves growing at the center of the crown, in the sunshine in brown soil.

Apply the same fertilizer after growth starts, and a final time after harvest.

Rotted manure also makes a great fertilizer for R. rhabarbarum.

Dig and split rhubarb roots every 3 to 4 years. Divide when plants are dormant in early spring (or fall).

Pests and Diseases to Look Out For

R. rhabarbarum is fairly free of pests and diseases, though there a few to keep an eye out for, including rhubarb curculio.

This half-inch-long beetle should be handpicked from plants when spotted. Or sprinkle diatomaceous earth around your garden beds.

If you see mites, treat them with neem oil, such as this one from Bonide that’s available via Amazon.

Bonide Neem Oil, 32 Oz.

This 32-ounce spray bottle is ready to use.

You may encounter fungal leaf rot. This can happen if the plants’ leaves remain wet for too long, or if plants are too crowded, with poor air circulation. Generally, only the leaves are impacted, not the stalks. Harvest stalks with impacted leaves first, and carefully remove and dispose of the leaves so as not to spread the fungus.

Phytophthora crown rot can occur if the plants’ subterranean bits sit in too much water for too long. Planting in hills, as mentioned above, can help prevent this problem.

To avoid introducing rot or fungal growth, be sure to plant in well-draining soil, and water at the base of plants rather than sprinkling the leaves. Watering in the morning can be helpful as well.

Alas, Patience Is Required

Most experts say it is best to wait to harvest stalks until the second or third year of growth.

Choose stalks that are at least 10 inches long, and take care to not harvest all the stalks from a given plant at once to avoid stressing the plant.

Let some leaves remain on perennial plants in the summer to generate energy for the next year’s growth, the same way you would let the leaves on daffodils be in preparation for the next year.

Pink and green rhubarb stalks grow in dark brown soil in the garden, topped with large green leaves.

All stalks can be harvested from annuals when the heat of the summer begins to set in, and crowns can be disposed of in the compost pile after your last harvest.

When it is time to harvest, grab a stalk and pull sideways — it should break off easily. Or you can cut the stalks off with a clean knife.

Immediately cut off the leaves and put them in the compost bin (unless they are diseased — in that case, seal them in a bag and dispose of them).

You can store cut stalks in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Wrap them in plastic, and for best results, stand them up in a container of water — much as you would fresh herbs — to keep them hydrated.

A Deep Dive Into Harvesting

Looking for more rhubarb harvest tips and tricks? Read our complete guide here.

Pucker Up!

Rich in vitamin C and dietary fiber, rhubarb is not only delicious in a tangy, tart, and sour kinda way, but it is healthful, also.

Top down view of whole stalks and cut cubes of fresh rhubarb.

When looking for ways to use this vegetable in the kitchen, we must absolutely consider the classic strawberry rhubarb pie, such as this one from our sister site, Foodal. Sweet and sour, it has an old-fashioned flavor that deserves a place on the modern table.

A piece of strawberry rhubarb pie is on a white square-shaped plate with rounded edges, alongside a fork, with the rest of the pie in a yellow-orange ceramic dish at the top of the frame, and several whole red strawberries with green tops scattered to the left and right on a white marble surface.
Photo by Meghan Yeager via Foodal.

Also from Foodal comes a mouthwatering rhubarb buttermilk sherbet, also starring the unmistakable flavor of rhubarb.

A bowl of buttermilk rhubarb sherbet.
Photo by Kendall Vanderslice via Foodal.

If you’d like a refreshing beverage featuring this tart delight, check out this recipe from The Fitchen for rhubarb mint pink lemonade. You can even grow your own mint for this one!

For a savory course that features rhubarb, how about these barbecue pork ribs with rhubarb chutney from Sugar Love Spices?

For even more rhubarb recipes, check out all that is available over on Foodal.

Plenty to Go Around

Far less complicated than the fancy recipes above, my mom usually just made a crumble with our neighbor’s generous bounty. But it was absolutely scrumptious.

Eight pink rhubarb stalks are just beginning to emerge from the ground in the spring, topped with small, wrinkled, yellow-green leaves, with a white sky and trees in the distance.

Consider growing your own deliciousness. Make sure the plants have enough water, a little fertilizer, and divide them every few years. You’ll have enough rhubarb to make plenty of pies, and also be able share a large bundle of stalks with the young neighbor girl down the street.

Have you ever grown this fruit-vegetable? Tell us about your experience in the comments section below, and if you’d like tips on growing another oft-mislabeled fregetable/vruit, read up on tomatoes here.

Photo by Gretchen Heber © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Growers Solution, Mountain Valley Seed Company, Nature Hills Nursery, and Bonide. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. Originally published by Mike Quinn on September 29th, 2014. Last updated on May 4th, 2018 with additional writing and editing by Allison Sidhu.

The staff at Gardener’s Path are not medical professionals and this article should not be construed as medical advice intended to assess, diagnose, prescribe, or promise cure. Gardener’s Path and Ask the Experts, LLC assume no liability for the use or misuse of the material presented above. Always consult with a medical professional before changing your diet or using plant-based remedies or supplements for health and wellness.

About Gretchen Heber

A former garden editor for a daily newspaper in Austin, Texas, Gretchen Heber goes through entirely too many pruners and garden gloves in a year’s time. She’s never met a succulent she didn’t like and gets really irritated every 3-4 years when Austin actually has a freeze cold enough to kill them. To Gretchen, nothing is more rewarding than a quick dash to the garden to pluck herbs to season the evening meal. And it’s definitely time for a happy dance when she’s able to beat the squirrels to the peaches, figs, or loquats.

72 thoughts on “How to Plant and Grow Rhubarb”

  1. Back in 1974/75 Organic Gardening publication advised to dig in wood ashes from the fireplace into to soil for planting rhubarb crowns. The claim was that it would both provide potasium and aid in prevention of winter rot of the crown when winter is overly wet, cold or long. I did this last year along with homemade compost for a 3 year old crown gifted to me by a co-worker. The crop was so bountiful it supplied the neighbors, my coworker and I rhubarb from late spring through December.

  2. I am so glad to find this article. The rhubarb plant I ordered last fall has just shipped and I want it to grow well.
    We always had it growing in our back garden when growing up in Ireland. As kids we would eat the stalks raw just dipping them in the sugar bowl. Last year I found some at our local Tom Thumb and introduced it to the hubby and our grown kids.

    • Oh, in Ireland! Wow! I love the story about the raw stalks and the sugar bowl. How did your husband and kids like it?

    • Can’t say for sure, Karen, but it sounds like this is the beginning of a new stalk. Our best advice is to wait and see what happens, and let it grow! Hard to say without seeing what you’re referring to, though. Feel free to send a picture.

  3. My dad gifted us their plants when they moved, and we’ve been enjoying rhubarb since. Even give some away once in a while. Some years are better harvests than others, probably because of where they sit near the house, but we do get some every year!

    • How lovely to have a heritage plant, Doug. That makes it even more special. What is your favorite rhubarb recipe?

  4. My mom always grew rhubarb when I was growing up and I planted some of my own a few years ago. The Victoria plants are green but tasty and growing well. I also have a crimson red that is a beautiful red color but the stalks only get about as big as a pencil. I have never picked anything from the plant and am wondering if I should be doing something different to get it to grow larger. Thanks!!

    • While some cultivars do produce thinner stalks than others, it sounds like your Crimson may be suffering from a lack of fertilizer, or overcrowding. Are these plants older than the Victorias, or maybe significantly younger? Plants under 2 years old have not yet reached maturity, while the older ones may benefit from division to give them some more space to grow, or amending the soil with additional fertilizer. Either way, skip harvesting from the plants with thinner stalks to allow these plants that may be suffering to keep their energy reserves intact.

  5. Yesterday morning I made 14 pints of Strawberry Rhubarb jam or sauce.
    We live in NW Illinois and our Rhubarb plants are abundant not only are they delicious in so many recipes they make good ground cover and keep most weeds away. I like them better then hostas because you can eat them! Lol
    My favorite thing is that Rhubarb is the first thing to pop up after a cold winter!

  6. I planted rhubarb about 12 years ago. We have had great harvests until about 3 years ago. Last year I did get a few stalks. This year it had grown a stalk straight up with the bundles of little flowers. Can these be used as seeds? It looks like an odd weed.

    • Yes, those will form seed heads, and you can plant the seeds. Plant in small pots in a rich medium, indoors. When they get to be about 3 or 4 inches tall, begin hardening them off outdoors, and after a week or so, you can transplant.

  7. I really have no idea what type of rhubarb this is as it was there when we moved in 26 1/2 years ago. I never used it cuz was always leery on baking/cooking with rhubarb. Afraid it would be “stringy”. I have never touched it, never moved it, never dug it up in all that time. It just looks like one huge plant. I would probably kill it if I tried to dig it & transplant it. But you didn’t answer my questions, Now there are a bunch of thinner (size of a pencil maybe width wise, at least 12-18″ long stalks). Since it is 6-21, should I leave what’s left or can I use more this thinner width? I don’t want to stress this very old plant. I would like to at least bake one more time with it, but I’m hearing confliction information on various sites I go to. Some say the thinner will not be good, others say it will. Some say you can use it till Fall, others say it will be tough & string after July 1st. HELP. Thanks.

    • Hi Linda! Thanks for reading this article! I would not use the spindly stalks, and I would divide your plants come springtime. Your plant is telling you it’s overcrowded.

  8. Hi, though we grow, harvest, concoct with a variety of fruits, vegetables, herbs & though I’ve always liked rhubarb, growing it hadn’t really crossed my mind. But we’ve been enjoying some time in Denmark — Danes appear to love rhubarb & use it in lots of different forms, in chutneys, cakes, puddings, toppings, & some truly delicious (not overly-sweet) beverages. I’m hooked & it is clear that I’ll be looking for a spot to include rhubarb. Thanks for the nice article!

    • Thank you for the kind comment, Mahonia! Rhubarb is truly such a versatile plant. And once it’s established, it’s pretty easy to keep rhubarb happy.

  9. A friend just gave us some of her divided rhubarb. So exciting! Should we plant now in June or leave in the bucket and wait until the fall? Is it alright against a garage with more afternoon than morning light? Also as leaves are toxic are they really safe in the compost? Great article!

    • Where do you live? If it’s not terribly hot, you can probably transplant now. I think your proposed location would be fine. Yes, you can compost the leaves. The oxalic acid is broken down and diluted during the decomposition process.

  10. I got some seeds off Amazon and so far I have 8 plants starting to come up. I want to plant at least 20 plants if possible. I loved rhubarb as a child it was one of my favorites my mom fixed it like peach cobbler. I hope to grow enough to take to the farmers market where hopefully introduce it to other people. I plan to plant them under my grapes. I live in NM so it gets really hot. Its going to be hard to wait 2 years before picking them. Wish me luck

    • Hi Joan… are the individual stalks skinny? Are the plants young or mature? If they are young, skinny stalks are to be expected. If they are mature, it could be they are overcrowded, and you’ll want to divide your plants.

  11. We have had a rhubarb plant that has come up for the Better part of 50 years. This year nothing. We never did anything special to it. Could it just have lived its cycle or is there a way to dig it up and see if it can be salvaged? It was my grandmother’s so a bit sentimental. We live in New York so it gets cold.

    • Hi Nichole! Thanks for checking out Gardener’s Path. It could have lived it’s life, but I would dig it up and see what you see. I hope it’s ok… what a treat to have your grandmother’s plant. 🙂

  12. Gretchen, We’ve just found your site, and love it. We have a rhubarb plant which we got from my mother-in-law about 15 years ago. It has produced well until this year. The stalks were very thin, and limp. We’ve dug up the crown to replace the soil with compost, and are trying to decide if we should replant, or replace. The root ball is about 6 inches deep, with one large deep root that has been cut. How do we know if it is overcrowded, or do we just assume by the stalk size? We are in the Pacific Northwest (Portland, OR.) . Thank You

    Jim Stecher

    • Welcome to Gardener’s Path, Jim! We’re so glad you’ve joined us. Based on your description, I would assume the plant is indeed overcrowded, and it is probably time to divide!

  13. I LOVE rhubarb! I fell in love with the plants from my grandparent’s garden when I was young and grow them for the sheer joy of my fond memories. I love to make rhubarb sauce, which I learned from my grandmother, and rhubarb bread, not to mention the all time favorite strawberry-rhubarb crisp/crumble. Plus, it is beautiful plant in the garden.

    • It’s amazing how many of us have memories of rhubarb growing in our grandparents’ gardens, isn’t it, Dhebi? It’s time we brought it back to modern gardens!

  14. Hi, We have been growing it since about 1992. The little old lady next door would give us Rhubarb Crisp as a thanks for mowing her lawn and finally I asked if we could try growing it. Sadly she has gone now but we now have about 15 Huge Plants that grow very large. I have heard that in the spring here (in Michigan) many people place bricks or a bucket with the bottom cut off to let it grow through to help the stalks get a darker red color and sweeter flavor. I haven’t tried it yet but spring is here and I wondered what your thoughts were. Love the info here.

    Thanks, Dwayne in Lapeer MI.

    • It sounds like you have a wonderful crop each year, and these plants do have a lot of longevity, providing continual harvests for many years. The darkness of the red hue of the stalks depends at least in part on the cultivar that you’re growing, and some cultivars do better with “forcing” like you’ve described than others, such as ‘Victoria’ or any with ‘Early’ in their name.

      The containers traditionally used for this are called “forcing pots,” and they’re used to keep light out, forcing an earlier crop. Some people use an overturned bucket for this, or a specially made terra cotta pot that is designed to fit the dimensions of a rhubarb plant.

      To do this, crowns are usually covered with a layer of straw and topped with the opaque container in January while the plants are still dormant, for a harvest within about two months rather than three. The stems “etiolate” or become pale – rather than taking on a darker red hue – due to the lack of light. Plants can’t photosynthesize when they’re light-deprived, so they grow long, smooth stems in the process, reaching up to search for the light as they grow.

      These tend to be less bitter with a more tender texture than what you would get if they were grown in the sunshine, and that lack of bitterness means you’ll often find you need to use less sugar than you usually would in whatever recipes you like to make with your rhubarb. Forcing the same plant to produce early two years in a row is not recommended, as this can weaken the plant.

    • Hi Laurie, it sounds more like your planting is bolting – sending up flower stalks to bloom and set seed.

      This can happen for a few reasons. Older varieties (Victoria, MacDonald) are more like to bolt and go to seed than the newer hybrids, and mature plants will set seed more readily than young ones. Also, an overly warm spring can also cause premature bolting.

      You can remove the flower stalks to improve your harvest, and mature plants can be divided in the fall. This helps to rejuvenate plants and resets the internal clocks of mature plants – so they behave as young plants and are less likely to bolt.

      Thanks for asking!

  15. I never had luck with rhubarb. I bought plants and they would do well and then die on me. I finally gave up and then I had seen my daughters plants go to seed and I grabbed one of the seed pods and planted them all. Out of all the seeds I got one to start. I planted it when we moved to new house three years ago and it is doing great. Have not cut anything from the plant till this year. It is just a plain green plant but taste is not very strong. I like the red but am afraid I would not have luck with it.

    • Thank you for your comment! I’m sorry you’ve struggled with plants you’ve purchased in a store or nursery. It can definitely be tough to transplant rhubarb, and I’ve found my young plants are quite susceptible to a change in temps. Maybe that’s the issue?

      I have four ‘Victoria’ plants I grew from seed in containers, and they’re not ready to harden off for some outside time even though it’s around 60 degrees out these days in Alaska.

      ‘Victoria’ is a green-red cultivar that grows really well from seed, if you’d like to try it. I planted these from seed in late January of this year (2020) and they’ve been growing indoors under a grow light and in the sunshine. This is their growth after less than four months from sowing. I should be able to harvest stalks next summer. 🙂

      We have an article that shows you how to sow from seed if you’re interested:

  16. If a rhubarb plant starts growing in the spring and we get a hard frost or snow on it, does it hurt the product? Someone said it poisons the rhubarb and I have to cut it back and let it start over. Hate to throw my product away but don’t want to make anyone sick either.

    • Hi Carolyn, thanks for your question! The short answer is this: if the rhubarb stalk and leaves still look normal after the frost, they’ll be fine to harvest and eat.

      Here’s the long answer/explanation: a frost or freeze can cause some of the oxalic acid in the leaves, which are toxic, to bleed into the stalks. BUT you will know if this happens: leaves might be blackened with frost damage even with firm stalks attached. Or, the stalks themselves will also be limp.

      In both of these cases (blackened leaves and/or wilted stalks after a frost or freeze), pull the affected stalks and discard them. You can eat unaffected stalks from the same plant, and you can also safely eat stalk regrowth on the same plant.

      I hope this helps! Feel free to respond with any further questions you might have.

  17. I have a rhubarb plant on the back of my property. I dont eat rhubarb, but do they after so many years go bad?

    • Rhubarb plants can live for up to 100 years or more, and newly grown stalks can be enjoyed during the entire growing period. Enjoy your crop!

  18. Hi – I have a question. I have been growing a couple of rhubarb plants for about four years. I didn’t realize that they have incredibly long roots. I’m growing them in a garden box and the roots have just spread out this year. I discovered them when I was digging up my saffron crocus, didn’t know what they were and broke them off. Then I realized they could be the rhubarb roots, and sure enough they look like the image of rhubarb roots on the net. My question is – have I damaged my plants?

    • Hi Patty! Thank you for your question. That’s wonderful that you have four-year-old rhubarb plants. I’m jealous! The good news is that rhubarb is an incredibly resilient plant, especially once it’s established, as yours sound like they are.

      Your plants should be just fine. Some gardeners actually dig up a plant, chop the root system in half (or into several chunks), and replant both the old root and the “new” chopped-off piece(s).

      Let me know if you have any further questions!

  19. Hi Gretchen,
    I am the the caretaker of a rhubarb plant that has been enjoyed by at least three generations. I’d like to begin to share the plant with generation four but not sure how to split it. I don’t want to risk harming the plant. Can you please advise how best to do this? Thank you.


    • Hi Ellen,

      Like Laura mentioned below in response to Patty, rhubarb is very resilient, and dividing is is recommended, for sharing and to avoid overcrowding.

      Dig about six inches deep in a wide circle around the plant to pull up the entire root system, and divide into rooted sections with 2-3 buds each for replanting, by cutting down through the crown with a spade or garden knife. It’s best to divide rhubarb when plants are dormant, in late fall, or in late winter/early spring before new shoots start coming up.

    • Hi Cindy! Thanks for your question. Usually, rhubarb stalks are hollow if they’re lacking nutrients or are under stress in hot, dry weather, or because the stalk harvested is actually a flower stalk (which is hollow) and the plant is bolting (producing seed).

      If the latter is the case, simply cut the flower stalks off and continue letting the other stalks grow until you wish to harvest them.

      If you suspect a nutrient deficiency, add a 10-10-10 NPK fertilizer according to package instructions. To keep the plant cool and moist in hot weather, mulch with bark chips or straw.

      I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any further questions.

  20. We planted rhubarb last year. The plants were beautiful but they did not come up this year.
    We planted about 2 feet from the little creek behind the house. Do you have any idea why it didn’t come back??

    • Hi Connie! I’m sorry to hear about your rhubarb plant. That’s so frustrating! Thank you for providing the information about the creek, as that might be the key to understanding what happened. It’s possible that the soil around the creek was too wet for the roots. If the rhubarb doesn’t have good drainage, it can develop fungal issues like root rot or crown rot and die.

      It’s quite possible that planting a new set of rhubarb farther away from the creek could result in happier roots.

      Let me know if you have any further questions!

  21. Rhubarb custard pie is fantastic if you want a little tart and sweet.

    I have a plant going to seed and live in Minnesota. It’s June and I’m wondering if I should plant those outdoors or indoors in pots to start.

    • Hi Chris, thank you for reading. That does sound delicious.

      If you mean planting the seeds from the existing plant, it’s probably best to sow them in containers (we have an article on that here) so that they can get big and strong enough for outdoor transplant next summer. Of course, you can always try sowing a few seeds outside and sowing a few in containers indoors and seeing which ones fare best.

      Just make sure you dry the seeds out completely after harvesting them from your existing plant and before you sow them.

      Happy planting!

  22. My grandmother always cut her rhubarb and give us some and we made rhubarb pies. To this day I love just rhubarb not mixed with strawberries. So good!

  23. I planted my first rhubarb plant this year and can’t wait until we can harvest it. When I was young my grandmother had a rhubarb plant. We loved going to the plant each of us with a small bag of sugar, tearing off a stalk, dipping it into the sugar and taking a bite. We would all pucker up and then take another bite. Yum!!


    • Can you describe the symptoms in a little more detail, Regina? Where are you located? Feel free to upload photos if you can as well. We’d love to help!

      Without any additional detail, this is just a guess, but it may be that your plants could benefit from division. Rhubarb can live for a very long time, but mature plants will continue to grow and spread, becoming crowded over the years. They can benefit greatly from division when they are dormant, to give them some extra space to continue to grow. Otherwise, they will compete for water and nutrients.

  25. Hi, I have 10-year-old rhubarb that gets about 5 hours of direct sun per day. In the spring it is healthy and grows well, then in June its new stalks are thin. The big leaves go yellow and die off. It gets lots of water. Pls reply and I’ll send you some pictures.

    Vancouver BC.

    • Hi Gary! I’m guessing the problem is lack of sunlight. Also, are there plants surrounding the rhubarb? It’s possible that in the early spring, the plant gets a bit more sun because its neighbors (trees, shrubs, flowers, weeds, grass, etc) aren’t very tall yet. Once June hits and things start growing, sunlight gets blocked out.

      This actually just happened to me, as well. In June I planted one of my rhubarb plants in between two broccoli plants. The broccoli was small enough at the time that everything seemed fine… and then of course they got enormous within a week or two, blocking the rhubarb’s light. As a result, the rhubarb stalks started coming out thinner and the leaves got huge. I’m talking twice-the-size-of-my-face huge. It was incredible!

      Clearly, they were straining for more sunlight. The other two rhubarbs that I have are growing normally. One is in full, direct sun almost all day long, and the other gets about 8+ hours of direct sunlight a day.

      I hope this helps — would still love to see photos.

      Thank you for reading and commenting!

  26. I’m curious about what I’m supposed to do with rhubarb at the end of the season. I read you’re not supposed to harvest after mid-June so Do I just let it grow?

    • Hi Stephanie! Harvest time differs based on your growing zone, which you can read more about in our article on harvesting rhubarb. But right now is probably a great time to harvest about 1/3-1/2 of the plant. If the stalks are about six inches long, it’s time to harvest!

      Once the frost in your area kills all the foliage, cut all the stalks down to the ground. The plant will grow new stalks in the springtime.

  27. I have been growing rhubarb in my garden for years but am moving. I split the plant to take some with me. I don’t have a new address yet. Can I just leave it in a bucket of dirt for the next few weeks till I can plant it in my new garden? If so does it need to be watered and is it OK just to leave it inside?

    • Hi Michelle! If I were you, I’d temporarily plant the cutting in the bucket of dirt with some gravel at the bottom to improve drainage. If the plant wasn’t dormant when you divided it, it will need water, about an inch a week. Check the soil for moisture every few days by putting your finger down a couple inches in the soil. If it feels dry, add an inch of water.

      Let me know if you experience any issues or have questions, and good luck with the move!

    • As long as the plant takes to its new surroundings and you see plenty of new stalks growing, you can harvest mature stalks the first year! Just take one or two at a time and see how the plant handles it. If everything goes well and the plant remains vigorous, you can harvest up to a third of the plant at a time. I hope this helps!


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