Ficus lyrata
The fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata), also known as the banjo fig or lyre leaf tree, makes a dramatic statement with its architectural shape and large, glossy leaves.
But unlike some of the other trendy houseplants, like air plants and monsteras, these striking specimens are incredibly fussy.
In fact, they’re so finicky that it’s a surprise to me they’ve become so popular.
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Don’t get me wrong – I absolutely love fiddle-leaf figs, and I understand their appeal.
They’re just quite particular about what they like and don’t like. But they’re hard to beat if you want a plant that makes a serious statement in your home or office.
Ready to learn how to nurture a standout fiddle-leaf fig houseplant of your own? Let’s get started!
Here’s what I’ll cover:
What You’ll Learn
This species is native to the lowland rainforests of western Africa. In their natural habitat, they grow 40 to 50 feet tall.
When cultivated outdoors as landscape specimens, which is possible in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11, they are typically shorter, about 15 to 25 feet tall.
In your home, they won’t have the right growing conditions to reach such heights.
Standard plants will probably top out around 10 feet, though I’ve seen them grow over 12 feet under ideal conditions.
Dwarf varieties are available as well, if you’re looking for something a little smaller.
Collectively, along with dozens of other fig species, they’re known as strangler figs.
Quick Look
Common name(s): Fiddle-leaf fig, lyre leaf tree, banjo fig
Plant type: Ornamental shrub/tree
Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-11 (outdoors)
Native to: Western Africa
Exposure: Bright, indirect sunlight with limited morning direct sun
Soil type: Rich, loose, water retentive, well-draining
Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, slightly acidic to neutral
Mature size: Up to 12 feet tall by 4 feet wide (indoors)
Best uses: Landscaping plant in Zones 9-11; ornamental houseplant
Taxonomy
Order: Rosales
Family: Moraceae
Genus: Ficus
Species: Lyrata
As they mature, these epiphytes send roots down from the canopy and into the soil. They slowly wrap their roots around the host tree, and may eventually strangle it to death.
The fiddle-leaf is related to weeping figs (F. benjamina) and rubber plants (F. elastica), which both do the same.
The evergreen leaves of the tree are violin or lyre-shaped, which – as you probably guessed – is where they get their name. The foliage is deep green and leathery in appearance.
The upper sides of the foliage appear somewhat waxy, while the undersides are slightly lighter and matte.
The leaves can grow to be 15 to 18 inches long.
If you slice the stems and branches of F. lyrata open, their sap contains latex that can be irritating to the skin.
Be sure to keep this in mind if you are pruning or propagating plants, and wear gloves.
Toxicity
Note that if you have pets that like to nibble on your houseplants, this plant might not be the best option.
The sap can cause skin irritation and digestive discomfort in children, cats, and dogs.
You won’t see any edible fruits on this plant if you’re growing it indoors, even though they’re part of the mulberry or fig family, Moraceae.
In their native habitat, they grow round one-inch fruits that look similar in shape to the common fig fruit.
Technically called syconiums, these fruits contain small, off-white flowers inside.
The flowers rely on a specific wasp, Agaon spatulatum, for pollination. After the wasp pollinates the flower inside, the fruit develops.
Even if you did happen to give your fiddle-leaf fig the right conditions to produce fruits, they don’t taste good like the ones from their cousin the common fig, F. carica.
F. lyrata fruits are tart and astringent.
How to Grow
First off, it helps to know what fiddle-leaf figs don’t like.
They don’t like too much direct sun, too much shade, too little water, too much water, drafts, drastic changes in temperature, too little air humidity, being moved, dust on their leaves, or your taste in throw pillows.
Okay, maybe not that last one. But I wasn’t kidding when I said they can be picky.
Keep reading to find out how to maintain conditions that these plants do like, so you can help your new houseplant to thrive.
Soil
Look for a soil mix that includes some perlite and peat moss or coconut coir to improve drainage.
Miracle-Gro’s Potting Soil Mix is a good option, and it’s available from Home Depot.
Water
Watering is perhaps the biggest challenge with growing F. lyrata.
Fiddle-leaf figs are particularly finicky about their water needs. In their natural habitat, they can tolerate drought, so when in doubt, err on the side of too dry over too wet.
The best way to tell if your plant needs water is to stick your finger in the soil.
If it feels dry at the top and moist – like a well wrung out sponge – at two inches deep, you don’t need to add any water.
Wait to add more until you can stick your finger in the soil and feel that it is dry in the top two inches and just starting to dry out below that.
Water evenly around the base of the plant, at the soil level. Do not sprinkle the foliage.
You can also use the bottom watering method to direct water towards the roots.
Humidity
In winter when indoor air tends to be much drier, lightly mist the leaves every few days with a spray bottle.
Fiddle-leafs that grow in conditions that are too dry will develop wrinkled and crumpled leaves.
Mist in the morning, so the foliage has time to dry out before the evening.
If you live in a dry climate, you might want to consider purchasing a humidifier. Your skin and your fig will thank you. Anything below 20 percent humidity is too low for houseplants.
Smaller plants can be put on top of a tray filled with pebbles and water instead of using a humidifier.
The water evaporates from the tray, humidifying the air around your plants.
Arranging plants in groups can also help to increase humidity.
Light and Heat
Put your fiddle-leaf fig in a spot where it’s going to receive plenty of indirect sunlight, with just a bit of direct sunlight in the morning.
Too much direct sunlight can cause the leaves to burn, turn brown, and fall off.
Conversely, a dark basement corner just won’t do. If it doesn’t receive enough light, the foliage will turn yellow and the leaves may fall off.
Avoid keeping your plant anywhere that temperatures may change too dramatically.
Your plant shouldn’t be exposed to extreme temperature fluctuations, temperatures below below 55°F or above 85°F.
Fertilizing
There are two different types of products that I recommend to fertilize your plants: slow-release granular fertilizer, or liquid fertilizer.
Both work well, so it’s up to you to decide which fits your schedule.
Liquid fertilizer needs to be applied every other time you water during the growing season, while granular products are a once- or twice-a-year task, depending on the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Fiddle-leaf figs do best with a 3-1-2 (NPK) formulation. This encourages the plant to produce big, healthy leaves and lots of new foliage.
Aquatic Arts Liquid Fertilizer
Aquatic Arts makes a liquid fertilizer specifically for use on Ficus plants. It’s available from Amazon in eight and 16-ounce bottles.
You don’t need to fertilize in the first few months after planting, and in most cases you can also skip fertilizing in the winter.
Repotting
Every few years you’ll need to repot your plant.
You’ll often see roots extending out of drainage holes or circling the perimeter of the container above or below the soil line.
F. lyrata can produce aerial roots, or roots that grow from the stem of the plant above the soil and extend downwards into the soil. Those aren’t a sign that your plant needs to be repotted.
It’s best to do this project in the spring. Pick a container a few inches larger than the existing one.
Ease the plant out of its existing pot. You might need to run a gardening knife gently around the perimeter of the pot to loosen the soil.
Once you have the plant out of its pot, gently remove the soil from the roots.
Part of the goal of repotting is to refresh the soil, so you want to remove as much of the old potting mix as possible.
Then, trim away any dead roots before repotting.
Cultivars to Select
The species plant is the most common in stores, but keep an eye out for the couple of different cultivars that exist.
They can make a charming addition to your indoor jungle if you’re looking for something a little unusual.
Species plants are available from Fast Growing Trees.
Bambino
If you’re a fan of the fiddle-leaf fig but need something a bit more compact, check out ‘Bambino.’
It only grows to be about 24 inches tall, with proportionally smaller leaves. And instead of maxing out at 18 inches, the leaves on this plant grow to about eight inches in length.
The foliage is also a bit rounder than that of the standard plant, without the distinct fiddle-like shape.
You can find plants in six-inch and three-gallon pots available from Fast Growing Trees.
Variegated
This cultivar stands out from the others because of its multicolored leaves, featuring a dark green center and creamy yellowish-gold edges.
As is the case with many variegated types of plants, it does better with a bit less light than the true species plant.
Put it somewhere with strong, indirect light, but to avoid leaf burn, don’t expose it to direct sun.
Maintenance
Take a damp cloth and gently wipe the leaves at least once a month.
If you don’t, dust can block access to sunlight and clog the “pores” in the foliage or stomata, slowing photosynthesis and causing the plant to struggle to survive.
Fiddle-leaf figs can grow quickly. It’s not unusual to see them shoot up a foot or two in a year.
If you leave your plant in a corner and don’t rotate it, that growth can quickly become uneven as it tries to reach for the sunlight.
There are two ways to deal with this. First, rotate it frequently. And second, make it even by pruning occasionally if it starts to look uneven.
Beyond maintaining symmetry, there are plenty of other reasons to prune.
If they’re happy, these plants will continue to grow upwards indefinitely.
Trim the highest branches so that the plant stays at least a foot below the ceiling for aesthetics, proper airflow, and to ensure it receives enough light.
You should also remove any diseased or damaged leaves.
Another reason you might want to prune is to give your plant a tree-like shape. But some gardeners keep the leaves intact on the lower part of the stem for a bushier shape.
If you like the more traditional tree look, you can prune away the lower leaves and branches.
Once a year, you may also want to thin your fig to encourage good air circulation. Any crossing branches should be snipped.
This is a task that can be done at any time of year, but if you prune in the winter, you won’t see new growth for several months afterwards.
Cut stems an inch from a stem or leaf node.
The plant will split and grow new branches where you cut it, so keep that in mind as you encourage the shape you want.
Propagation
While it is technically possible to grow a fiddle-leaf fig from seed, it’s extremely difficult and not recommended.
Fortunately for would-be fiddle-leaf parents, these plants lend themselves nicely to propagation by air layering or via stem cuttings.
By Air Layering
Air layering involves stripping the outer layers of the stem of a mature plant to expose the interior, and encouraging new roots to grow from there.
When roots form, you cut away the new growth and plant it.
Here’s a brief overview of how to make it happen:
With a sharp, clean knife, make two shallow horizontal cuts around the stem three inches apart. Connect these with shallow vertical cuts every half inch.
Cut through the brown bark to expose the green phloem layer, but avoid cutting into the white cambium beneath.
Strip away the bark between cuts to expose the green interior all the way around.
Brush the exposed layer with a very thin layer of rooting hormone powder.
Bonide Bontone II Rooting Powder
I like to use Bontone II Rooting Powder, which you can purchase at Arbico Organics.
Wrap moist (not wet) sphagnum moss around it, then cover with clear plastic secured at both ends with zip ties or string.
Maintain normal watering and feeding. Check every few weeks and mist the moss if it’s drying out.
After two to three months, roots will fill the plastic. Cut the stem just below the rooted section, remove the plastic and moss, and plant as a transplant.
The original base will branch where you cut it, giving you two plants.
From Stem Cuttings
Stem cuttings are a reliable option to propagate your fiddle-leaf fig, and this method is less complicated than air layering.
Select a healthy branch with unblemished foliage and cut a section with at least two leaves.
Strip foliage from the lower half to expose one or more nodes – where leaves attach to the stem.
This is where roots will grow, so more nodes mean better success. Keep at least one leaf on the top half.
Cut the base at a 45-degree angle just below the lowest node to increase surface area for water absorption.
Soil method: Dip the cut end in rooting hormone powder. Fill a six-inch container with sterile potting soil, water it, and poke a hole in the center.
Insert the cutting so a third of the stem is buried, then firm the soil around it. Mist daily and tent clear plastic over the cutting, propped with sticks so it doesn’t touch the foliage.
Keep the soil moist and provide at least six hours of indirect sunlight daily.
Water method: Skip the hormone, soil, and plastic. Simply submerge a third of the stem in non-chlorinated water in a glass container.
Place in indirect sunlight and change the water every few days.
Roots should form in four to six weeks. For soil cuttings, test by tugging gently, if the cutting resists, it is ready to transplant.
Transplanting
Transplant your fiddle-leaf fig right away after you bring it home.
Choose a container that is two to three inches larger than the one it is growing in. Make sure the container has drainage holes and a saucer underneath that excess water can drain into.
Don’t go too much larger than the original container or you’ll find it challenging to water appropriately. Excess soil can tend to hold too much water.
Place the plant in the new container at approximately the same depth it was planted before.
You might need to place a little soil in the bottom of the container to ensure it’s sitting at the same height. Fill in around the root ball with potting soil.
Pests and Disease
Once you nail the water, light, and temperature requirements, your fig will probably be growing along happily. Keep it fit as a fiddle by watching out for the following pests and diseases.
Pests
It’s important to keep a close eye on all of your houseplants, but especially fiddle-leaf figs.
By the time they start showing symptoms of insect infestation, it’s likely you already have a serious plague on your hands.
Fungus Gnats
Fungus gnats (Bradysia spp.) are about the size of a fruit fly and it is the larvae that can damage the roots.
You probably won’t see the larvae, which are about 1/8 inch long with black heads and white bodies, so keep an eye out for the adults instead.
In the case of a severe infestation the plant may wilt or stop growing, and leaves may turn yellow.
Under the soil, the roots may be damaged so severely that the plant can’t sustain itself.
Yellow sticky traps placed on top of the soil or suspended just above the soil on stakes are effective for capturing the adults.
You can also trap them the same way you would fruit flies, by filling a shallow container with three parts apple cider vinegar and one part water.
If you’ve struggled with fungus gnats in the past, it’s a good idea to keep a yellow sticky trap in the container at all times.
BioCare Gnat Stix, available at Arbico Organics, are made specifically for handling fungus gnat problems.
Find more tips on controlling fungus gnats here.
Mealybugs
Mealybugs (from the family Pseudococcidae) are small insects that look more like evidence of a disease than a pest.
They have soft bodies and they are usually covered in a white waxy coating. You’ll also see them surrounded by a cottony white fluff that sort of looks like mold – these are the egg sacks.
Over time, foliage may turn yellow and fall off, and new leaves might fail to form.
The honeydew they produce attracts ants and can lead to sooty mold.
If you only spot a few of these bugs, dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and dab it on each individual. Just be careful not to wipe any alcohol on the foliage.
Or you can use insecticidal soap like the one from Bonide, available at Arbico Organics.
Read more about controlling mealybugs here.
Spider Mites
Spider mites are members of the Tetranychidae family. These tiny arachnids feed on plants by puncturing leaves and stems with their mouthparts.
You may notice fine webbing with debris-like specks on the plant. Look closely and you’ll see tiny reddish or light green spider-like bugs crawling on the web and leaves.
Beyond seeing the actual web or mites, you can also look for tiny rust-colored dots stippling the leaves.
Badly infested plants exhibit stunted growth and may drop leaves.
To control spider mites, wash down the leaves and stems of your fiddle-leaf fig with a strong spray of water, and don’t forget to spray the underside of leaves!
If that doesn’t work, it’s time to break out the insecticidal soap.
Find tips for spider mite control here.
Disease
Here are the most common diseases that you will need to keep an eye out for on these houseplants.
Botrytis Blight
Gray mold, caused by fungi in the Botrytis genus, appears as gray or tan spots on leaves with gray spores.
Prevent it by watering appropriately and don’t overfeed your plant.
Botrytis needs high humidity, wet leaves, and cool temperatures to thrive, so it rarely becomes problematic indoors unless you consistently overwater.
Remove and discard any diseased leaves or branches immediately.
Root Rot
Root rot is a common disease, caused by water molds from the genus Phytophthora or certain types of fungi (Fusarium spp. or Rhizoctonia spp.).
The most reliable way to diagnose this disease is to examine the roots. They’ll look wet or soft and mushy, and there might be an unpleasant smell.
Beyond the soggy roots, the most common telltale sign is brown spots that form on the edges of leaves, or sometimes on the interior.
These brown spots will spread and expand if you don’t fix the problem, and they commonly appear closer to the base of plants first. You may also see white fungal spores on the leaf surfaces.
If allowed to progress, affected leaves will begin to drop.
If you see signs of rot, repot plants growing in heavily saturated soil or soil that is more than three years old right away.
Take the fiddle-leaf fig out of its container and wash the soil away from the roots. Trim away any soggy or dead roots, then replant as you would a new transplant.
Learn more about treating root rot here.
You’re Ready to Help Your Fabulous Fiddle-Leaf Tree Flourish
It sounds like a lot, I know. But once you get the hang of giving your fiddle-leaf fig tree the things it needs to flourish, it becomes second nature.
Pretty soon, you’ll be enjoying the architectural splendor of your fabulous plant, rather than worrying about just keeping it alive.
I can’t wait to hear about your success, and you absolutely have to come back and tell me what you named your new family member. Let me know in the comments section below – and feel free to share a picture!
And for more information about growing houseplants, check out these guides next:
This is so completely comprehensive! I just got my first Fig tree and I’m so nervous and excited to go on this journey but after reading your article I feel a little more ready and prepared! Thank you!
So glad our guide helped! Your fig looks happy and healthy and ready to go! Best of luck!
I just got a fig leaf plant and need advice. I have never had one before. I love plants and want to be successful with this one. Should I repot?
No need to repot right away unless the plant is rootbound. Gently lift the plant out of its existing container and give it a look. If you see a lot of roots around the exterior of the soil, best to go up a pot size. Plan on repotting in a few months or up to a year.
Hai Kristine, Interesting article, just got my first “classy & steely determination” fig plant ????, wishing me luck ya ????
Good luck! You’ve got this!
I got my first fiddle leaf fig a few months ago. Of course I overwatered it the first month which led to the loss of a few leaves. Since then it has been good. However I have not had a new leaf come in. Not sure why.
I think we’ve all been there on the overwatering! I wouldn’t worry about not seeing any new foliage yet. If your plant was shocked by the move or the overwatering, it might not send out new leaves for a bit. Most of mine didn’t send out new foliage until the following spring after I got them.
I just got a Fiddle leaf fig plant.
I was told they grow from the bottom up.
Is this so?
My fiddle fig seems healthy but I see one keaf with hiles in it st the top. What coild cause this?
What could be causing the holes in the leaf at the top?
Hi Irma, this looks like the kind of damage that happens when the plant isn’t getting enough humidity. If this is a young leaf, the holes likely developed while the leaf was forming in dry conditions. Either way, try misting the foliage once a day or using a humidifier in the room
Love this site, so glad I found it. I live in Florida, and my tree stays outside on a screened-in lanai with good light and lots of humidity. It has grown tremendously in the 3 or so years I’ve owned it. I’ve had to stake the individual stalks as they were getting so tall they were leaning over. My question is, what causes the leaves to be dull and lose their shine? The plant seems so healthy but that tells me something may be wrong.
Dull leaves are usually caused by either too much direct sun or not enough humidity/moisture. If the problem is caused by light exposure, the plant will adapt. You don’t need to move it. New leaves will emerge that are as glossy as ever. If it’s moisture causing the issue, try misting your plant daily.
Don’t forget that leaves naturally become duller as they age and dust build-up can also cause a dull appearance. If the rest of the plant appears healthy and the leaves aren’t dropping, it’s likely just aging.
One of the best and most thorough article on fiddle-leaf figs I’ve ever read. All the information, your insight, knowledge and wittiness was helpful and a joy to read. I learned so much and it’s helped me to understand my two fickled fiddle-figs tremendously. I’m ordering most of the products you’ve mentioned. Again, thank you. Desheila
Thank you so much, I’m so happy you enjoyed our article and that it was helpful! These truly are some fickle plants, but we love them anyway, right? Good luck with yours!
Hey! I was just gifted this beautiful Fig tree and I was wondering if I could get your opinion on the placement of it. I’m confused bc I live in Asheville and my apt window is facing NE. It’s connected to a door and in the winter time i wouldn’t want to disturb my new plant with any cold air coming through when I open and close door. I have to two spots I’m considering so I wanted your opinion on it. I attached two pictures. One is the corner near the window and there’s a vent above that door… Read more »
Hi Gret, no luck with the photos. Do you want to try re-uploading them? Without seeing the pictures, I can broadly say that it’s probably better to have your plant in more sun rather than less. Maybe you could keep it near the window until the cold weather arrives and then move it to the other location? Less light won’t bother it as much during the dormant winter season.