How to Grow Tree Philodendron (Split Leaf Philodendron)

Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (formerly Philodendron selloum syn. P. bipinnatifidum)

The philodendron houseplant is such a reliable old friend and so commonplace that you might tend to overlook it in favor of more remarkable species.

But then along comes the tree philodendron, sometimes called lacy leaf, split leaf, or horsehead philodendron, a species so large and bold you can’t help but take notice.

It goes by various other common names as well, including panda or fruit salad plant.

This tropical species has vast green, glossy, heart-shaped leaves that are deeply lobed, with cuts so deep they reach almost to the center vein.

A close up horizontal image of a tree philodendron (Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum) growing in a decorative pot by a window.

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This plant is easily confused with another jumbo-size, bodacious tropical, Monstera deliciosa, which also has divided leaves and grows big and tall.

But those Swiss cheese plants may also have enclosed holes on their leaves, while T. bipinnatifidum has the deeply cut lobes only.

In USDA Hardiness Zones 10 to 13, this foliage plant will grow outdoors year-round, either in large containers or planted in a garden or border.

Its tall stature is tree-like, and plants will commonly lose their bottom leaves, leaving the central stalk exposed.

Want to grow this big, bold beauty in your own home? I have plenty of tips to help yours thrive, from propagation to taking care of pests and preventing disease.

Here’s the lineup:

Native to southern Brazil and the regions of Argentina, Bolivia, and Paraguay that are nearby, tree philodendrons are tropical.

Outdoors or in the wild, they can grow in excess of 15 feet tall with an upright habit, and spread 10 feet or more.

Mature plants, often of at least 20 years of age, may also produce flowers.

But these are minute, covering a spadix that is protected within a spathe before it blooms, like what you will see on anthuriums and peace lilies.

A close up vertical image of a large tree philodendron growing in a glass house.

Indoors, the plants can still reach eight to 10 feet tall and spread six feet or more in ideal conditions, though you can limit this growth by planting them in containers no larger than 12 inches in diameter.

Vining philodendrons are typical, but T. bipinnatifidum was once categorized as one of the less common, “self-heading” types.

Members of the Meconostigma group of philodendrons – which have since been moved to their own genus – produce leaves that grow very close together, with all of them emerging from a single clump at the crown and no branching.

Quick Look

Common name(s): Tree, lacy leaf, split leaf, or horsehead philodendron, panda or fruit salad plant

Plant type: Tropical herbaceous perennial

Hardiness (USDA Zone): 10-12 (outdoor)

Native to: Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Paraguay

Exposure: Low to bright indirect light (indoors), partial shade (outdoors)

Soil type: Rich, sandy loam or potting mix, well-draining

Soil pH: 5.0-6.0, slightly acidic

Time to maturity: 15-20 years

Mature size: 8-10 feet (indoors), 15 feet+ (outdoors) high by 6+ feet wide

Best uses: Houseplant, borders, patio container

Taxonomy

Order: Alismatales

Family: Araceae

Subfamily: Aroideae (formerly Meconostigma)

Genus: Thaumatophyllum (formerly Philodendron)

Species: Bipinnatifidum

As they get older, these plants will develop a woody trunk of up to four inches in diameter and begin to shed their lower leaves, sporting leaf scars that resemble an eye with a darker pupil at the center where the foliage has fallen.

I like the offbeat appearance, but if you don’t, you can always limit the size of the plants before the trunks develop, merely by restricting the pots to 12 inches in diameter or so.

A close up horizontal image of a large tree philodendron growing outdoors with the distinctive woody trunk.

As self-headers, these plants also develop aerial roots that will grow from the long stem down to the ground. These roots support the plant as it grows taller.

Though this and other Meconostigma species are no longer classified as Philodendron, you may still see their former botanical names in plant guides, at nurseries, and at garden centers.

Philodendron selloum and P. bipinnatifidum were once considered separate species, as older specimens growing in the wild can look very different from their smaller indoor counterparts.

These were merged when the two “different” species were found to be one and the same.

Later, DNA testing revealed significant genetic differences among the Meconostigma philodendrons that scientists decided were worthy of placement in their own genus, so this species was renamed T. bipinnatifidum in 2018.

Toxicity

Like all philodendrons, Thaumatophyllum plants contain calcium oxalate, which is toxic if ingested.

Keep these houseplants away from infants, toddlers, and inquisitive pets. If a human or pet eats any part of the plant, seek medical attention immediately.

If your skin makes contact with the sap, you may experience itching and/or inflammation.

If you want a tropical foliage plant that can attain an impressive size and that’s easy to care for, I don’t think you can do better than cut-leaf philodendron – or whatever you choose to call it.

A few attractive options include setting it where the deep green foliage will pop against a brightly painted wall, or using it to lift spirits in a poorly lit foyer or other lackluster spaces including low-light dens, rec rooms, or so-called “man caves.”

A close up horizontal image of a potted tree philodendron set in a dark location indoors.

Place one large plant below a hanging basket of one of its trailing philodendron relatives, or use one to anchor a collection of shorter, colorful tropical plants like anthuriums.

With the ability to withstand both bright and low light, this species is also a strong design choice for shady patios or light-filled gazebos in the warm months, or for setting by the pool or a pond for added tropical allure.

How to Grow

Like most of their close relatives, tree philodendrons can cope with less than ideal conditions, but they’ll grow better if their needs are met.

Here’s what to provide:

Light

Tree philodendrons will be fine anywhere they can receive at least low light indoors, including bathrooms lit with 40-watt fluorescent bulbs, or other spots near a north-facing window.

A close up horizontal image of a tree philodendron growing in a pot set on a tiled surface.

They’ll also flourish in the bright, indirect light that’s available in a sunroom or any level of natural light available elsewhere indoors.

Just make sure the light they receive is indirect. Think: near a sunny window, but not in the direct path of strong afternoon sun rays.

Temperature

The ideal temperature for these tropicals is between 70 and 85°F, but they’ll do okay as long as nighttime temperatures don’t drop below 55°F.

If you’ve accidentally left yours outside in a light frost, you may luck out.

Sometimes they’ll survive overnight or for a few hours in temperatures that plummet to 36°F, but don’t press your luck.

Container Selection

Provide a container that has drainage holes, and that’s made of a lightweight material that retains moisture, like plastic, vinyl, or galvanized metal.

A close up horizontal image of the foliage of a tree philodendron growing in a plastic pot.

Unglazed clay pots dry out too quickly.

And once the plants reach a decent size, most pots made of ceramic or sealed terra cotta are going to be too heavy to move around.

Speaking of size, you don’t want to choose a pot that’s too big, either.

This is not the time to purchase a container with ”room to grow,” since T. bipinnatifidum prefers to be a little rootbound.

Instead, find a container that is about two inches wider than the diameter of the root ball, or the pot it’s growing in currently if it needs to move up a size.

Also outfit the planter with a saucer at the bottom to catch excess water. That way, you’ll be able to discard any excess that drains after watering, so the roots are never standing in water.

Soil

These plants need a well-draining, organically-rich growing medium.

While they require consistent moisture, they’ll languish if compacted soil gets waterlogged, which can prohibit the roots from drawing up water and nutrients.

The ideal is a light, fertile mix. I suggest combining potting soil, peat moss or coconut coir, and perlite in equal proportions.

Learn more about choosing potting soil for your houseplants here.

Water

Only water when a moisture meter or a finger plunged into the soil informs you that the top two inches are dry.

Water thoroughly at the soil line, not from above the plant, so you don’t wet the foliage. Let the water drain completely, and discard the excess.

Fertilizer

This species will also appreciate regular applications of nitrogen-rich fertilizer, so it can keep producing those impressive leaves.

Dilute liquid fertilizer to half of the manufacturer’s recommended amount, and use it once a month.

Where to Buy

You can sometimes find a smaller cultivar called ‘Hope’ at nurseries, but other specific cultivars, including the narrow-leaf ‘Tortum,’ are rarely labeled as such, nor are you likely to spot them available for purchase.

A close up square image of a large tree philodendron in a black pot in an open office space.

Tree Philodendron

You can find the standard tree philodendron online, usually labeled as P. selloum.

Plants are available at Fast Growing Trees.

Xanadu Philodendron

There is another species also known as tree philodendron, T. xanadu, which was originally thought to be a cultivar of our subject species.

A square image of xanadu philodendron plants growing outdoors in a garden border.

Xanadu Philodendron

These plants grow to a height of about five feet tall.

You can find xanadu philodendron plants available from Nature Hills Nursery.

Learn more about how to grow xanadu philodendrons here.

Maintenance

If you want to trim away gangly aerial roots on a tree philodendron, that’s your call. They’ll grow just fine with or without them.

There are a few beneficial maintenance chores to attend to if time allows.

A close up horizontal image of a small tree philodendron plant growing in a white pot set on a tiled surface.

Try to keep the leaves free from dust. Use a dry microfiber cloth and give them a wipe every couple of weeks.

This will get the dust off so they can more readily photosynthesize, and they’ll look prettier, too.

If insect pests are a problem, you can also wipe the leaves with a warm, damp cloth, both the tops and the undersides, every month or so.

This will rid the surfaces of any lurking eggs or webs.

It’s also a good idea to flush fertilizer salts from the soil every four or five months.

To do this, water the soil thoroughly until you see water coming out of the drainage holes.

Let it drain completely, discard the excess, and then complete two more rounds of watering, draining, and discarding.

If you like to take your tree philodendron outside for the summer months, it will need to be brought back inside before nighttime temperatures dip below 45°F.

Take it slow if the plant has been exposed to bright light all summer and its new spot will be in a lower-light situation.

This will help to keep the plants from suffering shock and dropping their leaves.

Also, this houseplant is likely to grow larger outside in the summer, so be sure to keep up with fertilizing, even if you don’t typically feed when it’s growing inside.

If your plant is becoming too large for its current container, you can unpot the plant and trim the roots to one-third of their current size to maintain a more compact plant.

Your plant may also need repotting, especially if you’re aiming to let it grow ever-bigger.

You can learn more about transplanting your tree philodendron here.

Propagation

The easiest way to get started with a tree philodendron is to purchase a plant from your local garden center or nursery.

A close up horizontal image of the deeply cut foliage of tree philodendron growing in a pot indoors.

If you or a friend has an existing plant, it is possible to propagate new plants via a stem cutting or by removing any offsets that appear at the base.

The leaves grow from one central stem, and provided there are leaf nodes and aerial roots growing from it, you can top the stem and plant that section in a container filled with well-draining potting mix.

The stump will eventually sprout new leaves.

If you notice offsets growing at the base of your plant, you can dig them up, roots and all, and repot them.

To do this is, remove the plant from its existing pot, and use a knife to separate the offsets from the parent. Pot them up using well-draining potting mix.

Pests and Disease

When you stick with growing them indoors, you can mostly avoid insect pests and disease on tree philodendrons.

The best preventive measures include wiping the leaves regularly with a damp cloth, including the undersides; making sure the plants have plenty of space for air circulation; and never overwatering or leaving the roots to stand in soggy soil or saucers full of water.

Occasionally, certain pests or diseases will strike. The main insect offenders are mealybugs, scale, and spider mites, and the two most likely diseases are bacterial leaf spot and root rot.

Learn more about recognizing, treating, and preventing each of these houseplant threats in the pest and disease section of our philodendron guide.

Rainforest Foliage in Your Living Room

Some houseplants that make a bold statement only succeed with lots of fussy tending. But the tree philodendron provides a dramatic statement without requiring too much in terms of care.

A close up horizontal image of a tree philodendron growing in a black plastic pot outdoors.

That’s a win-win!

Do you have experience growing this tropical plant? If you have tips or questions to share, take a few seconds to add your input in the comments section below.

And if you want to learn more about growing philodendrons, check out these guides next:

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About

An avid raised bed vegetable gardener and former “Dirt to Fork” columnist for an alt-weekly newspaper in Knoxville, Tennessee, Rose Kennedy is dedicated to sharing tips that increase yields and minimize work. But she’s also open to garden magic, like the red-veined sorrel that took up residence in several square yards of what used to be her back lawn. She champions all pollinators, even carpenter bees. Her other enthusiasms include newbie gardeners, open-pollinated sunflowers, 15-foot-tall Italian climbing tomatoes, and the arbor her husband repurposed from a bread vendor’s display arch. More importantly, Rose loves a garden’s ability to make a well-kept manicure virtually impossible and revive the spirits, especially in tough times.

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Janice duffy
Janice duffy (@guest_19623)
3 years ago

My tree philodendron is wilting. I just repotted it but do I cover the plant’s trunk?

BibiBen
BibiBen (@guest_48863)
1 year ago

i have this plant, it was gorgeous when I bought it 6 months ago but started browning and dropping leaves almost immediately after I brought it home. I do make sure I don’t over water. I do lightly fertilize every couple of months Is there anything else I can do?

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Kristine Lofgren
Kristine Lofgren(@kristinelofgren)
Gardening Writer
Reply to  BibiBen
1 year ago

Hi there, does the pot that you’re growing in have drainage holes? If not, my guess is that water is collecting in the bottom of the pot and causing root rot. We have a guide to root rot on houseplants if you’d like to learn more about this common issue. If the pot does have drainage, I’d recommend taking the plant out of the container and examining the roots for signs of root rot like black or mushy areas. Also, take note of any odd smells. Root rot tends to have a distinct odor of rot.

Emily
Emily (@guest_53685)
1 year ago

Hello!
This beautiful lady belonged to my grandmother and has been split many many times and given to the women in my family. I have the original, but she’s started growing sideways. Do you have any suggestions for supporting her growth/ encouraging upward growth?
Thank you!

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Kristine Lofgren
Kristine Lofgren(@kristinelofgren)
Gardening Writer
Reply to  Emily
1 year ago

What a big, beautiful specimen! If you want it to grow upright, I would take it out of the pot, repot it at a slightly more upright angle, and use a very sturdy, strong support to train it upright going forward. You might even need an exterior support, meaning one that it outside of the container. I have a monstera that I’m supporting with a metal trellis attached to a wall. Sometimes we have to do what we have to do!