Platycodon grandiflorus
Balloon flower, Platycodon grandiflorus, is a native of the Russian Far East, China, Japan, and Korea that has become a garden sensation in the United States.
A member of the Campanulaceae family that includes bellflower and lobelia, its common name derives from the puffy balloon-like buds that burst open into starry bell-like blossoms.
In this article, you will learn how to grow and care for balloon flower in your landscape.
Here’s what’s in store:
What You’ll Learn
What Are Balloon Flowers?
Although P. grandiflorus is not a native blue flower, its hardy, disease-resistant nature and vibrant perennial blossoms have made it a jewel of American gardens.
Also called common, Chinese, or Japanese bellflower, P. grandiflorus grows in clumps that fill in densely, and is the perfect plant for a sunny border garden. This herbaceous perennial is suitable for gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 3-8.
The two- to three-inch flowers bloom in various shades of blue, as well as pink and white. Some have prominent veining of the petals.
There may be one or more blossoms on each upright stem. In the bud stage, they resemble little balloons begging to be popped. When they open up, they resemble star-like upturned bells.
The leaves are thick, and green to blue-green in color. They are lance-shaped with serrated margins.
P. grandiflorus thrives in organically-rich, loamy soil that’s well-drained and moderately moist. It has fleshy taproots that are easily damaged if plants are disturbed.
The roots are not aggressive, but this plant self-sows with vigor, spreading via new shoots that pop up in the fertile ground each spring.
Plant sizes vary. The true botanical species, as found in the wild in its native lands, may reach or even exceed 36 inches tall and 18 inches wide at maturity.
Cultivated varieties include dwarf plants that are four to six inches tall and equally wide, as well as medium-sized specimens that measure 12 to 18 inches tall and wide.
With regular deadheading, plants bloom prolifically through the summer.
Per the California Poison Control System, P. grandiflorus is non-toxic to humans and animals.
The edible roots have long been pickled and preserved, and used in herbal remedies and dietary supplements, to provide anti-inflammatory, antitussive, and digestive benefits.
Propagation
P. grandiflorus may be propagated from seed, by stem cuttings, or from nursery starts in the spring.
Other propagation methods are not recommended for this plant.
Some folks try to divide P. grandiflorus. However, the divisions are rarely successful due to the inevitable root damage.
Also, you may sometimes find dormant bare rootstock for sale.
As the roots are fragile and resistant to transplant, this method may not be worth the investment, especially when plants are so easy to direct sow and grow from seed.
Let’s take a look at each of the recommended propagation methods.
From Seed
Start seeds indoors six to eight weeks prior to the last average spring frost date for blooms in the first year.
P. grandiflorus seeds need light to germinate, so place them on the surface of moist soil without covering them.
When the seedlings have two sets of true leaves and the danger of frost has passed, you may gradually acclimate them to the outdoors.
Give them a few hours of fresh air and sunlight each day for about three to five days. This is a process called “hardening off.”
After hardening off, you can transplant the seedlings to the garden, taking care not to disturb the fragile roots.
Dig a hole the same depth and width as the root ball.
Keep the soil surface of the seedling even with the ground soil surface, neither burying nor elevating the seedling, to minimize transplant stress.
You may also direct sow seeds outdoors after the last average spring frost date, or at any time during the growing season, but they may not produce flowers until the second year.
Moisten the soil and sprinkle your seeds every few inches throughout the planting area. Do not cover them.
Maintain even moisture, but do not let the soil become waterlogged.
Once they have several sets of true leaves, thin the seedlings to accommodate plants’ mature dimensions.
This is the best propagation method, as it will not put any stress on the delicate roots.
For both methods, maintain even moisture but avoid oversaturation while seeds germinate and plants become established in the garden.
From Nursery Starts
Transplant nursery starts to the garden in early spring for flowers the first year.
You may plant nursery starts at any time during the growing season to ensure flowers in the second year.
When you transplant, dig a hole the same depth and width of the root ball, and be sure to keep the pot soil level even with the ground soil level.
Remove the plant gently from the container and do not disrupt the roots.
Maintain even moisture before and after transplanting.
From Cuttings
In the spring, you can take soft cuttings of growing stem tips to root and plant out.
Use clean, sharp pruners to cut off about four inches of a stem. Pinch off enough foliage to reveal about two inches of bare stem at the bottom.
Dip the bare stem in powdered rooting hormone and then place it into a container of potting medium. Maintain even moisture, but do not overwater.
The appearance of leaves is evidence of root growth.
Transplant the rooted stem to the garden, taking care not to disturb its delicate roots.
Plant it at the same depth as the container in which it was growing.
How to Grow
Now that we’ve talked about starting plants, let’s move on to establishing them in the garden.
Balloon flowers require a full sun to part shade location.
The ideal soil is organically-rich and loamy, with a pH that falls between about 5.5 to 7.5.
You may conduct a soil test to determine the characteristics of your earth. Add lime to lower acidity, or sphagnum peat moss to increase it, as needed.
The soil should be well-draining. If you find your soil is dense and clay-like, you may add builder’s sand or leaf mulch to loosen it and improve drainage.
Leaf mulch may also increase the acidity.
Work the soil to a depth of about 10 to 12 inches, amending it as needed to achieve the appropriate pH and good drainage.
For nursery starts, seedlings, and rooted cuttings, space plants to allow for their mature dimensions. Take care not to disturb the taproots during transplant.
Provide consistent moisture, but always avoid standing water, until plants are well established.
You may apply an all-purpose slow-release granular fertilizer at the time of planting if desired.
A layer of mulch may help to retain moisture, with the bonus of inhibiting weeds that may compete for water and nutrients.
For container gardening, cultivate dwarf varieties.
Select pots that are at least two inches wider than the mature widths of the plants, and with a depth of at least 10 to 12 inches to accommodate the taproots.
Be sure the pots drain well. Keep them uniformly moist, but not soggy, and remember that containers will dry out much quicker than ground soil.
Growing Tips
This hardy perennial is easy to grow, especially when you start with seeds.
Remember these three keys to success:
- Sow seeds on the surface of moist soil so they have the light they need to germinate.
- Disrupt plants as little as possible to avoid damaging the taproots.
- Provide good drainage and use mulch to maintain adequate moisture without oversaturation.
Pruning and Maintenance
This low-maintenance plant does well on its own in ideal conditions and requires very little intervention once established.
However, there are two issues you may have to deal with: “leggy” stems and self sowing.
Leggy Stems
A very common complaint about this plant is that the stems of tall varieties tend to get “leggy” and grow horizontally instead of vertically.
Here’s how to manage plants for more upright growth:
Cut all stems by one-half in late spring to encourage more branching, and compact, bushy growth.
In fall, after the growing season is over, you may also cut all of the dead stems to the ground. You can also prune in early spring, just as the new growth appears.
If you choose to prune in early spring, take care not to damage emerging shoots.
Also, don’t fertilize if your soil is especially rich, because too much nitrogen can cause legginess.
And finally, if you decide not to take proactive measures, simply use stakes to support the stems and keep them upright.
Self-Sowing
A vigorous self-sower can be a problem.
Either give this plant a space of its own to naturally reseed at will, or plan to dig up random seedlings every spring. Some are sure to jump the garden boundary and end up in the lawn, if proximity permits it.
You can also limit self-sowing by deadheading spent blossoms throughout the growing season, and/or removing all stems after blooming finishes and before seeds drop.
You may save harvested stems to dry for seed collection. However, many balloon flowers are cultivated hybrid varieties, and they are likely to produce results that differ from their parent plants.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is optional. Apply an all-purpose slow-release granular plant food in early spring if desired.
Organically-rich soil provides adequate nutrition, and products that are high in nitrogen may contribute to legginess.
Moisture
Established plants have deep taproots and require little supplemental water.
They exhibit above average drought tolerance, but in the event of a prolonged dry spell, water deeply once a week.
Cultivars to Select
When shopping for balloon flowers, you may come across the true botanical species, but more likely, you’ll find cultivated varieties.
Here are some you are sure to like:
Astra Double
P. grandiflorus ‘Astra Double’ is a dwarf variety with a mature height of six to 12 inches and width of six to nine inches, making for a compact plant that is easy to manage.
Flowers measure three inches across and boast a double row of lavender-blue petals. They are especially prolific with consistent deadheading.
P. grandiflorus ‘Astra Double’
This is a hardy, pest- and disease-resistant cultivar.
The petite stature of this type makes it a good choice for containers, the front of mixed beds, and along the edge of borders.
Find P. grandiflorus ‘Astra Double’ plants now from Nature Hills Nursery.
Astra Pink
Similar to ‘Astra Double,’ P. grandiflorus ‘Astra Pink’ is also a compact plant that matures to a height of six to 12 inches, and a width of six to nine inches.
The three-inch blossoms are pale pink and have one row of petals.
This is another hardy, pest- and disease-resistant choice.
Low-profile balloon flowers are unlikely to require staking, and are well-suited to container gardening as well as bed, border, and rock garden placements.
Remember to deadhead spent blossoms to encourage optimal blooming.
Find P. grandiflorus ‘Astra Pink’ seeds now from Amazon.
Fuji Blue
A taller cultivar, P. grandiflorus ‘Fuji Blue’ generally tops out at 18 to 24 inches tall with a spread of 12 to 18 inches.
The flowers have a single row of deep blue petals, and measure between two and two and a half inches across.
Well-suited to mid-bed placements, this type may require staking.
‘Fuji Blue’ may also produce double blooms. Variations are possible as most cultivars are seed-grown, according to experts at the Chicago Botanic Garden.
Find P. grandiflorus ‘Fuji Blue’ seeds now from Amazon.
Sentimental
P. grandiflorus ‘Sentimental’ is a dwarf cultivar with mature heights ranging from six to 12 inches and widths of 12 to 18 inches.
The flowers have a diameter of three inches and a single row of blue petals.
The wider spread of this low-profile option makes it an especially good choice for border edging.
Find P. grandiflorus ‘Sentimental’ plants now from Nature Hills Nursery.
Managing Pests and Disease
P. grandiflorus is not prone to problems with pests or disease, however, as I always say, your best defense is a healthy plant.
Conditions that are too wet may make it vulnerable to pests such as slugs and snails.
In addition, if plants sit in puddles of water, they may be susceptible to root rot.
Avoid problems by providing adequate drainage, and don’t water established plants unless there is insufficient rainfall combined with high temperatures.
Best Uses
If you’re looking for something really unique for your mixed beds, borders, and containers, this plant is one to consider.
I’m especially partial to the blue flowers because they are eye-catching for their color alone.
Add to this their balloon-like buds and starry bell-shaped blooms, and you have a specimen that’s going to be noticed.
Dwarf types are easy to grow in containers, rock gardens, and at the front of beds and borders, where a low, compact profile is appreciated.
Medium-size varieties hold the middle ground of perennial beds, while taller species plants anchor rear positions with their sturdy stems (which may need staking).
Companions that play well with P. grandiflorus include bee balm, black-eyed Susan, blazing star, daylily, and lily turf.
It is important to choose plants with similar water requirements, to avoid oversaturating your balloon flowers because a neighboring plant has dehydrated.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type: | Herbaceous perennial | Flower / Foliage Color: | Blue shades, pink, and white/ green to blue-green |
Native To: | Asia, Russia | Tolerance: | Deer, drought, heat |
Hardiness (USDA Zone): | 3-8 | Soil Type: | Organically-rich loam |
Bloom Time / Season: | Summer | Soil pH: | 5.5-7.5 |
Exposure: | Full sun to part shade | Soil Drainage: | Well-draining |
Spacing: | 4-18 inches | Attracts: | Bees, birds, butterflies |
Planting Depth: | Surface sow | Companion Planting: | Bee balm, black-eyed Susan, blazing star, daylily, lily turf |
Height: | 4-36 inches | Uses: | Border edging, containers, perennial beds, rock gardens |
Spread: | 4-18 inches | Order: | Asterales |
Growth Rate: | Moderate | Family: | Campanulaceae |
Water Needs: | Moderate | Genus: | Platycodon |
Maintenance: | Low | Species: | grandiflorus |
Pests & Diseases: | Slugs, snails; root rot | Slugs, snails; root rot | Slugs, snails; root rot |
Plucky and Playful
Balloon flower is a not a fragile face in the crowd, but a sturdy-stemmed beauty that stands up to repeated deep pruning for a compact and manageable form.
It asks little in the way of water once established, and while it loves to self-sow, well-chosen planting locations and adequate deadheading can minimize the effects of its exuberance.
Ask the kids to help you add this perennial gem to your outdoor living space.
It’s a great choice for gardening with children because it’s easy to grow, comes back year after year, and the inflated buds never cease to delight.
Will you be planting P. grandiflorus in your garden this year? Let us know in the comments section below, and feel free to share a picture!
If you like vigorous blue flowers, you’ll want to read these guides next:
- 9 of the Best Grape Hyacinth Varieties for Your Garden
- How to Grow and Care for Sky Blue Aster
- Splash Your Garden in Blue with Bachelor’s Button (Cornflower)
© Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published March 19, 2019. Last updated: July 8, 2020. Product photos via Amazon, IB Prosperity, and Nature Hills Nursery. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock.
About Nan Schiller
Nan Schiller is a writer with deep roots in the soil of southeastern Pennsylvania. Her background includes landscape and floral design, a BS in business from Villanova University, and a Certificate of Merit in floral design from Longwood Gardens. An advocate of organic gardening with native plants, she’s always got dirt under her nails and freckles on her nose. With wit and hopefully some wisdom, she shares what she’s learned and is always ready to dig into a new project!
Is it possible for me to have one indoors from year to year? Are there different techniques to enable flowering again after winter with an indoor potted Platycodon?
Hello, Erick – Thank you for your question. Most commercially available Platycodon grandiflorus varieties are intended to grow outdoors, where they spread by vigorous runners and often exceed two feet in height. If you want to grow one as a houseplant, look for a compact/dwarf variety. – Place your plant in a sunny location. – Keep the soil moist, but not dripping wet. And when you water, avoid the leaves and aim for the soil. – Pinch off and discard spent blossoms. – Ensure that your plant is in optimal condition for blooming by applying an all-purpose, slow-acting granular fertilizer.… Read more »
This beautiful flower popped up out of nowhere last summer in of all places my boxwood shrub! There are two adjoining plants this season, the taller one being 55 inches high! Has anyone heard of them growing this tall? They are definitively astra double blue balloon flowers (Platycodon grandifloris).
Wow, Mark! Some Astras top out at only 10 inches. I have read about some 47-inch Komachis. Maybe you have an amazing hybrid, or super-soil!
I have lots of photos if you’re interested!
My pictures are posted on Facebook.
Hi Mark –
You’re welcome to post one on the Gardener’s Path Facebook page to share with our readers.
I’m gonna try it. Saw them in nursery and gonna give a try. They were listed as a top 10 perinneal for clay soil on another site? Any insight
Hi Angela –
While balloon flower prefers rich loam, you might try adding a little humus or compost and some sand to your clay soil. Provided it drains well, you may get acceptable results.
When to plant?
Hello Helen –
Start balloon flower seeds indoors in early spring and transplant outdoors after the danger of frost has passed. Alternatively, you may place plants directly into the garden in late spring or early summer. Seeds will need two years to produce flowers. Plants should bloom in the first year.
I’m transplanting these. We’ve moved to the woods near a lake in North central Texas, so I’m wondering if the deer are going to eat them. They’re very effortless, & I love the blue.
I’d love to have some white ones!
Hi Melva –
The deer usually leave balloon flower alone.
Love these and luck with them on my deck.
I was wondering about keeping mine in a pot larger than it came in. How do the ones on your deck do in pots?
Hi Vicki –
We’re glad you are enjoying balloon flower as a container plant on your deck. That’s a great way to keep it right where you want it.
I love my balloon flowers but once they are 12-15 inches, the plants don’t stand up. They can’t support the weight, I guess. Do I need to stake them?
Hi Denise –
You may stake balloon flowers that become leggy. You may also deadhead throughout the growing season, and prune entire stems for a more compact appearance. In addition, at the end of the growing season, or early next spring, you may prune old growth to make way for new, creating a more compact size from the start.
If you prune the old spent flower bud, do you not need the seeds for regrow the following year?
Hi Liz –
You may save the seeds if you like, but it’s not necessary. The roots winter over and the plant comes up again next year.
I have a blue ballon flower plant that has increased in size since I planted it three years ago. This year I am getting multiple flowers, but the stems all grow away from the center before turning up and so the plant itself does not look very pretty. Would this be because
the plant does not get afternoon sun?
Hi Cheryl –
You can cut balloon flowers back in early spring, before they start to grow again, to encourage a compact growth habit. If you don’t, they do tend to get leggy. Try staking them with twine and bamboo sticks, to hold them upright and create a neater appearance. Balloon flowers like full sun, but are very tolerant of partial shade, so the lack of afternoon sun shouldn’t be a problem. Thanks for reading and best of luck with your gardening!
I read they do great with just afternoon sun. I planted 5 small plants last fall here in Colorado zone 5 on the west side of the house and though they were slow to make an appearance this Spring I just was rewarded with my first blossom.
Hi Susan-
Your flower is beautiful!
Balloon flower does best in full sun, but does tolerate part shade. In warm locales, it does best with afternoon shade, but in your location, where it’s cooler, it can take all the sun it can get. So glad to hear you’re having success!
I was fortunate to acquire some starts of the blue and also the white balloon flowers last year. They have done extremely well and I love how they add interest to my gardens.
Hi Cindi –
Thanks for sharing. Enjoy!
Will the Playtcodon send runners into the grass? Will it grow out of control? Do you need an area that can contain it?
Hi Kellie –
Platycodon has a long taproot and a spread of about two and one-half feet. Plant it in a bed where it has room to reach its full width, and prune it down in early spring each year to encourage compact growth. It does drop seeds that may take root, so allow ample room around it to accommodate this potential for additional growth.
I didn’t know the plant would spread before I planted mine almost four years ago. I’m going to transplant my balloon flowers into full sun this year. Do you have recommendations on how to transplant? Also, do you have recommendations on how to remove the additional growth from an unwanted spot? It jumped the bed and went into the grass (we just mow over it, but I would like to handle it properly).
Hello Emily – Balloon flower is not an easy plant to relocate, because it has a long taproot. If you want to give it a try, wait until spring, when the new shoots appear. Water it well, to help the soil cling to the roots. Dig straight down in a circle, at least six inches out from the center. Loosen the soil all around the plant. Gently slide your shovel underneath, and lift it out of the ground. Move the plant into a hole a few inches wider than the diameter of the mound you have removed. Water well. When… Read more »
My balloon flowers get over six foot tall and when they bloom they are so tall and heavy they end up lying on the ground. Is there a time I can prune them so they are shorter by the time they bloom?
Hi Jackie –
You may prune your plants to the ground in early spring, just before they begin to grow again. And if you’re in a warm zone, you can do this in late fall or early spring.
I just bought a house and I have saw where there are balloon flowers still in the pots. I’m just going to learn as I go how to take care of these flower gardens. lol. I wanted to know should I go ahead and plant these in the ground now or take them in and care for them and plant in ground different season. I also have elephant plants. I really don’t want these to get out of hand so I did cut them down and cleaned up last night.
Hi Sharon Rose –
Congratulations on your new house!
If your region hasn’t reached its first frost date, you may plant your balloon flowers.
Choose a location with full sun and rich soil that drains well. Water the plants and apply a layer of mulch around the base of each.
As for elephant ear plants, they are only hardy in zones 8 to 10. Elsewhere, you may dig them up, trim off the leaves, and store the tubers in a cool, dry location until the next growing season.
I’m a novice gardener. About 3 months ago I bought the balloon flower. It is in a 6” pot and had lots of blooms. I deadheaded spent blooms but now it’s not producing any blooms. After Reading your column I’m thinking that I need to put it in a larger pot so that the tap root can have more room. I’ve given bloom booster flower food and it get at least 6 hours of full sun daily. Is there something else I can do? Ruth
Hi Ruth –
Balloon flower is a summer bloomer. However, deadheading sometimes results in a fall re-bloom. It sounds like your plant is finished for the season. Look for new shoots in spring, followed by flowers in summer. There are dwarf varieties that reach about 8 inches, as well as standard size plants that may exceed two feet. As your plant grows, increase the size of the pot to two inches wider than the diameter of the plant, with ample depth for the taproot. And if you can put it into the ground, even better.
Hello, l planted the beautiful blue ones today, l can’t wait for their show to amaze me
Hello, i just planted platycodon today and I’ve never really planted flowers before, is platycodon a bad starter flower? Also I live where it’s cold and summers don’t get very warm, but I decided to keep it as an inside flower but I can put it on my balcony if that’s necessary. But i’m not really sure if my flower will succeed because I’m a starter at gardening but I hope it will! Also the seed packet said that the seed needed to stay at 20 C degrees, so I guess it can only stay by my window at day… Read more »
Hi Margret – Balloon flower is generally grown outdoors, as it spreads by vigorous runners and often exceeds two feet in height. However, dwarf varieties may be successfully cultivated indoors. Sprout your seeds per package instructions in a good quality potting medium. Use a container with good drainage holes that can accommodate the plant’s mature dimensions. Place the pot in a warm location with good sunlight. Keep the soil evenly moist, but not soggy. When your seedlings have two sets of true leaves, thin them out to avoid overcrowding, keeping only the strongest. If you find the days are warm… Read more »
I live in New Zealand & have 3 Platycondon plants that flowered beautifully over summer. We are now heading into Winter & my plants are not looking great. The leaves are turning yellow. Should I cut them back now or wait until our Spring in September? I’d appreciate some advice. Thank you. Cheryl
Hi Cheryl – It’s possible that your plants started to dry out at summer’s end. Leaves that feel brittle and look yellow may indicate dehydration. On the other hand, if they are soft, yellow, and wilted, they may be oversaturated. If you find they are too dry, water them well. If you didn’t cut the stems by half during the summer, and they are quite leggy, cut them back by half now. Add a layer of mulch to aid in keeping them warm over the winter. In spring, when the new sprouts appear, cut the old foliage to the ground.… Read more »
I bought a blooming plant. Can I cut the bloom stem off? They’re unsightly.
Hi Torri – Yes. After a blossom is finished, you may pinch it off to encourage more to bloom.
Could this plant work in a hanging basket?
Hi Sarah – It’s not the best choice for a hanging basket as the stems do not cascade. They are erect, although they may get leggy, especially if they are not pruned by one-half in mid-summer. Leggy stems flop over, but they don’t arch gracefully, as you would desire for a hanging plant.
My husband and I are new to gardening. Since he is recently retired, we thought we’d find a new hobby to enjoy. We went to a local big box store and purchased nine blue balloon flowers to plant as a border next to our carport. It definitely took some work. However, they are doing very well, thus far. We’re pleased. Side note: We have also started container gardening of husky grape tomatoes, zucchini, and carrots. We may have two green thumbs, after all!
They are growing beautifully!
Hello Lauren and Kyle –
You’ve done a wonderful job with your balloon flowers. They look lovely. Thank you for sharing!
I have purchased my first balloon plant. It has remained in the pot I purchased it in as I’ve prepared a new perennial garden spot. It has gotten very “leggy” and the 10 stems look like intermingled snakes! I’ve read all the comments and answers but I’m not sure of the timing of pruning in “early spring” or half way through the summer. Is there any way it would be okay to trim these back in mid May in southern NH? Also, how far back should they be pruned? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Not sure this post is active. But I’m a novice gardener and bought some of these balloon flowers on clearance because they looked healthy overall. But currently they’re growing- just not up. They’re spreading out a bit. They’ve flowered some but just aren’t growing in height but rather in length. Perhaps there’s something I can do to encourage their upwards growth. Any thoughts? Thank you.
Hello Amy –
You may cut the stems back to an inch or two, and let them grow up again, for more compact, upright growth. Generally, this is done in early spring, before new shoots appear, and again mid-season. In addition, pinching off spent blossoms, or deadheading, helps to control leggy growth.
FOI adorável ler sobre essa encantadora planta!
Obrigado por lê-lo!
I bought a balloon flower many years ago when I lived in Milton, Ontario. I was able to divide it and put in several different areas. I was visiting my son in Whitby Ontario. They allowed me to choose some perennials and I found ballon flowers. They are just green leaves right now but I told them the plant will be a wonderful surprise when it blooms. I love it!
Hi Nan…..just now ran across your article and found it very interesting…was wondering if you know what the milky substance is that forms when you dead head the flowers…it’s sticky and has a mild odor almost like the plant is bleeding…an curious and haven’t been able to find any info…thanks in advance…🤔
Hi Carolyn –
We’re glad you enjoyed the article. The milky white substance is sap, and it is the “blood” of the plant. After pruning, you may clean your shears with a little mild dish detergent or rubbing alcohol to remove it.
I received some balloon flowers as a gift . They should grow to 8″. If I plant them in pots and leave them outside, will they survive the winter and come back again next year? We live in zone 6 in Michigan. Thanks for your help!
Hello Corleen –
Generally plants winter over best when they are planted in the ground. Pots dry out faster and freeze harder than ground soil. In addition, pots may crack in the cold weather. You might want to put the pots into the ground with a layer of mulch over them, and take them up again in spring. In addition, if it is an especially dry winter, you should water them occasionally.
My balloon flowers, which I have grown for many years and never had a pest or disease, have blooms that were twisted and small and definitely diseased. Could it be nematodes in the ground? None of my other plants show any sign of problems. Thanks!
Hi Donna –
While older balloon flowers may fall victim to root rot, the symptoms of the condition do not match your description. Is it possible that your plants are the victims of herbicide injury from local spraying?
I love my balloon flowers and deadhead them religiously but they stop blooming mid-summer. Is there a way to keep them going?
Also I would love to have mine spread out. Did I read correctly above that if I took the dead heads and pushed them in the ground they might root?
Hi Jennifer – Balloon flowers generally bloom throughout the summer. By mid-summer, there may be a lull in flower production. At this time, some folks prune deeply to stimulate new growth. When you deadhead, take care to pinch off the spent flowers without damaging the stems. Stem damage may inhibit new bud growth. Deadheaded blooms pushed into the ground are not likely to grow. First, they may not have produced seed yet, and second, balloon flower seeds need light to germinate. Let some of your flowers go to seed and drop onto the soil. When no seeds fall, your plants… Read more »
Thank you for a very informative article. This is my first experience with balloon flower. It is in a pot where it gets afternoon sun and has done well in Zone 7B, staying compact. My homeowners’ association does not permit planting in the ground, so I would like to overwinter the plant as a houseplant. Do you have any suggestions?