How to Grow Hellebores, the Winter-to-Spring Sensation

Helleborus spp.

If you’re tired of looking out the window at a dormant winter landscape, have I got a plant for you! It’s Helleborus orientalis, aka Lenten rose or simply, hellebore.

Helleborus is a genus in the Ranunculaceae, or buttercup family that includes anemones and delphiniums.

While the rest of the garden sleeps and chill winds blow, this evergreen perennial raises stalwart stems into the frosty air, often blooming as early as January, and continuing well into spring.

A close up horizontal image of purple hellebores growing in the late winter garden covered in a dusting of snow.

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In this article, I’ll cover all you need to know to cultivate hellebores in your garden.

Here’s what’s to come:

Hybrids of the wild Lenten rose are readily available for home gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 4 to 9.

You’ll find them under the name Helleborus x hybridus, which we’ll talk about in a little bit.

A close up horizontal image of dark purple hellebore flowers growing in the garden pictured on a soft focus background.

Lenten roses are acaulescent, which means each stem rises directly from the rhizomatous root system, to form clumps that may reach two feet tall and wide.

Downward-facing cup-shaped flowers consist of petal-like sepals surrounding an intricately detailed inner flower called a “nectary.”

Sepal hues range from shades of green and yellow to pink and red.

Variations such as contrasting spotting, veining, and “picotee” edging, as well as semi-double and double sepals, multiply the possibilities in an already extensive color palette.

A close up horizontal image of dark, almost black hellebores growing in the garden pictured on a soft focus background.

Foliage consists of glossy dark green multi-lobed leaves with a serrated edge and leathery texture.

Hellebores require moist, loamy soil that is well-drained. They thrive in exposed locations in the winter, but when summer heat arrives, they are vulnerable.

Quick Look

Common name(s): Lenten rose, hellebore

Plant type: Herbaceous evergreen perennial

Hardiness (USDA Zone): 4-9

Native to: Mediterranean Europe and China

Bloom time: Late winter, early spring

Exposure: Full to part shade

Soil type: Organically-rich loam, well-draining

Soil pH: 7.0-8.0, neutral to slightly alkaline

Time to maturity: 2-3 years (from seed)

Mature size: 1-2 feet tall and wide

Best uses: Naturalize, beds, borders, shade gardens, woodland settings

Taxonomy

Order: Ranunculales

Family: Ranunculaceae

Genus: Helleborus

Species: Orientalis, x hybridus

Plant in the partial to full shade of a deciduous tree so that they have protection from the summer sun.

There are currently 20 known species in the Helleborus genus, and most of these are native to the limestone-rich regions of the Mediterranean, and in particular the Balkan mountains.

One species, H. thibetanus, is native to China.

From the wild, this plant made its way into the gardens of European herbalists, before becoming an ornamental specimen prized by master gardeners, and finally a home garden favorite.

A close up vertical image of a pink flower growing through the winter snow, pictured on a soft focus background.

Hellebore’s history is the stuff of legends, loaded with intrigue and superstition.

In Greek mythology, it is referenced as a cure for madness, and in the First Sacred War – 595 to 585 BC – it is believed to have been used to poison a water supply, crippling the inhabitants of Kirrha with gastrointestinal distress so dire that they could not defend their city.

By the 1500s, its powerful purgative qualities were relied upon regularly to cleanse the minds and bodies of both people and animals.

At one point, people believed that a dusting of powdered hellebore could render them invisible, but perhaps these were the same folks who were being treated for madness…

By the mid-1850s, the hybridization of various species as ornamental specimens was well underway across Europe.

A close up horizontal image of pink and white hellebore flowers growing in the late winter garden with soil and fallen leaves in soft focus in the background.

It wasn’t until the 19th Century that hellebores made their way into American gardens, courtesy of Cornell University botanist Liberty Hyde Baily, whose Cyclopedia of American Horticulture described eight species well suited to home gardening.

By the 20th Century, other noteworthy Philadelphia region gardens, including the Scott Arboretum at Swarthmore College, and Winterthur, the DuPont estate, had impressive ornamental collections.

Because of their ease of cultivation, early bloom time, and longevity, today’s hellebores are in great demand.

To enjoy hellebores at their best, select locations that are sheltered from the summer sun, and give them room to naturalize.

A close up horizontal image of purple nodding hellebore flowers growing in the spring garden surrounded by glossy green foliage.

Consider planting sites that can be comfortably viewed through windows, or near entryways, so you don’t to go strolling about the frozen grounds to appreciate them.

If you’re a winter-hardy soul, you may like to scatter plants along wooded paths, beneath deciduous trees and shrubbery, and in the shadow of structures like walls and fences, where they can be discovered and celebrated.

A Note of Caution:

It is important to note that like many ornamentals, hellebores are toxic to people and pets.

In addition, skin contact may cause irritation, so gardening gloves are a must when you are handling these plants.

How to Grow

Hellebores require loamy soil that is moist but drains well, with an ideal pH of 7.0 to 8.0. You may want to conduct a soil test and amend according to the recommendations.

They also do best planted under deciduous trees that provide at least partial shade in summer months. You need to avoid placements that expose plants to strong, drying winds.

A close up vertical image of hellebore flowers growing in the spring garden pictured in light sunshine on a soft focus background.

New plants should be provided with about an inch of water per week in the absence of rain.

You want the soil to maintain even moisture, but not become oversaturated. Once established, additional water is only necessary during dry spells.

Fertilization is not necessary, simply maintain the loamy soil, amending it each spring with rich organic material to provide a fertile growing medium.

Hellebores are long-lived, and each year they get bigger and produce more flowers.

You can expect at least 10 productive years for your investment, given proper soil and moisture, and a hospitable location.

Don’t have a large yard or garden? No problem. Hellebores can also be grown in containers.

Cultivars to Select

Now that you know all about this ornamental perennial, let’s take a quick look at some cultivars for your garden.

We know that the species Lenten rose is H. orientalis. However, the ones we find for sale are usually H. x hybridus.

A close up horizontal image of hellebore flowers growing in the early spring garden pictured on a soft focus background.

That is because most cultivars are hybrids, bred for optimal color and performance in the US.

Hellebores are fascinating because even in their native land, a single species may exhibit a variety of different characteristics.

When breeders cross these already variable natives with other species or hybrids, the result is a dazzling array of options.

You can learn more about the different types of hellebores in our guide.

Here are a few of my favorite cultivars to get started:

Onyx Odyssey

Double-flowered ‘Onyx Odyssey’ is a standout in the late winter garden. Imagine the contrast between a light coating of white snow and the deep purple-black blooms.

A close up square image of H. x hybridus 'Onyx Odyssey' growing in the garden pictured on a soft focus background.

‘Onyx Odyssey’

You can plant in a swath with lighter colors for contrast.

Find potted plants available at Burpee.

Painted Bunting

If dark-and-moody isn’t your style, try ‘Painted Bunting,’ with its single blooms featuring creamy white sepals and deep red throats and veining.

A close up square image of white and pink H. x hybridus 'Painted Bunting' growing in small containers pictured on a soft focus background.

‘Painted Bunting’

Plant together with ‘Onyx Odyssey’ for a dramatic light-and-dark display.

You can find potted plants available at Burpee.

Wedding Party Bridesmaid

‘Wedding Party Bridesmaid’ is a standout cultivar that features double flowers in white with dark pink picotee edges and veining.

A close up square image of the flowers of H. x helleborus 'Wedding Party Bridesmaid' growing in the garden pictured on a soft focus background.

‘Wedding Party Bridesmaid’

Find potted plants available at Burpee.

Maintenance

Keep the garden weeded to deter pests and inhibit disease. Snip off spent flower stems at their base to promote foliar growth post-bloom.

If you want to divide plants, do so in late winter or early fall. This is not a necessity, unless clumps don’t have room to naturalize or you want to propagate new plants.

A close up horizontal image of a clump of hellebore flowers growing in the garden with soil and fallen leaves in soft focus in the background.

Late fall is the time to prune the old foliage to the ground to make way for next spring’s new growth.

Some folks leave the foliage in place because it is evergreen, but in locales with harsh winters, the leaves often end up floppy and brown, and spoil the appearance of spring’s new blossoms.

In addition, old foliage may harbor pests and diseases that winter over, so it may be wise to cut the stems back to the ground.

After the growing season draws to a close in late fall, you can apply a layer of mulch for added warmth and retention of winter moisture.

Plants that are not bone dry usually fare better in terms of retaining color and resisting wind damage.

Propagation

Hellebores can be started from seed, by division, and by micropropagation – the latter is beyond the scope of this article.

A close up horizontal image of light pink hellebores growing in the late winter garden covered in a dusting of snow.

Alternatively, you can purchase potted plants or bare roots from your local garden center or nursery for transplant.

For an in depth look at how to propagate hellebores, check out our guide.

From Seed

Hellebores are self-sowing, but keep in mind that seeds from hybrid plants generate variable characteristics and will typically not replicate those of the parent plant.

You may let seeds drop naturally from existing plants and transplant seedlings to desired locations. Seeds that drop into the root crown of the parent plant should always be relocated.

Different colored self-sown seedlings may sprout near one another and give the appearance of one plant with two different color blossoms for added interest.

You can harvest seeds in early summer, after the plants have finished flowering. Learn more about how to harvest hellebore seeds in our guide.

You can also purchase ungerminated seeds and germinated seed plugs to get started.

We cover all the details about how to grow hellebores from seed here.

By Division

Another way to start a new plant is by digging up an existing plant, and cutting through the rhizome to make one or more separate sections that can be planted elsewhere.

You can divide established plants in late winter or early fall.

Learn how to divide hellebores here.

Transplanting

You can’t go wrong in terms of timing with Lenten rose, because plants are typically available for purchase when the time is right for planting.

A close up horizontal image of a potted plant in the process of being transplanted into the garden with tools to the left of the frame.

If you order from catalogs, delivery is generally timed to suit your growing zone. Mature potted plants, seedlings, and plugs may be put into the ground from March through August.

To prepare the soil for planting, remove grass, weeds, and debris. Work the soil to a friable (crumbly) consistency to a depth of at least six inches.

You can amend with some compost or worm castings, but do not apply fertilizer at planting time.

Mound the soil up for each plant to promote drainage and make the nodding flowers a little easier to see.

Remove the plant from its pot. If the roots are tightly bound, gently tease them apart.

Brush off the potting medium and place your transplant into the soil, spreading the roots out and nestling the plant in securely.

Make sure that it is set at the same depth as it was in the growing container, with the root crown just above the soil line to prevent rotting.

Tamp the soil down, water, and tamp again to remove air pockets.

Pests and Disease

Hellebores are generally healthy, with few issues, especially when they are grown in organically-rich soil and a full to part-shade location.

A close up horizontal image of a seedling growing through the snowy ground in the late winter garden.

Sometimes plants are stressed by placements that are too sunny, causing dehydration which may present as brown leaves and drying roots.

Or perhaps the garden is full of weeds and there is competition for water, and habitat for insects that carry disease.

Pests

One pest that may take advantage of a weak plant is the aphid.

There are numerous species of these sap-sucking insects that leave a sticky trail of shiny “honeydew” as it feeds on and destroys plant tissue.

Use clean pruners to snip off and discard affected foliage – such as misshapen or discolored leaves – discard the plant material in the trash, and sanitize the pruners.

Follow with an application of neem oil or insecticidal soap. Repeated applications may be needed.

Read more about identifying and controlling hellebore pests here.

Disease

A common disease you may encounter is leaf spot.

This is a fungal infection, caused by Microsphaeropsis hellebori that is easily identified by the brown patches it causes on foliage that eventually fall right out of the plant, leaving holes and weakening stems.

All affected foliage must be pruned off and discarded in the trash with pruners that are cleaned before and after cutting.

Plants may respond to fungicidal treatment.

Another common ailment is downy mildew, caused by an oomycete, or water mold, Peronospora pulveracea.

It’s characterized by a furry gray to purplish coating, particularly on the undersides of the foliage. Unchecked, leaves develop patches of dead tissue, curl downward, and die.

Use clean pruners to remove affected foliage and discard it in the trash. Plants may respond favorably to fungicidal treatment.

You can learn more about common hellebore diseases in our guide.

And while the aphid itself is treatable, one particular disease it carries is not. The most serious threat to hellebores is “Black Death.”

Its telltale signs are stunted growth and black streaks. Unfortunately, there is no treatment, and the plant must be removed from the garden.

It is speculated that the culprit, the Helleborus net necrosis virus, is transmitted by aphids.

You can read more about hellebore black death in this guide.

I have not experienced these issues with my hellebores. In addition, while I always use the words “deer resistant” with caution, I will say that the visiting deer have not eaten my plants.

Hooked on Hellebores

My first experience with hellebores was over 20 years ago, when I discovered them in a gardening journal.

Once I fell under the spell of manipulating Mother Nature and growing flowers in winter, I wanted to learn more and sought expert guidance.

I found it in “Hellebores: A Comprehensive Guide” by C. Colston Burrell and Judith Knott Tyler, available on Amazon.

Hellebores: A Comprehensive Guide

The authors and photographer Richard Tyler have years of experience harvesting wild species and creating cultivars for home gardeners, which are sold at Pine Knot Farms in Virginia.

Currently, this is the definitive work on the named hellebore species and their various subspecies.

Are you growing hellebores in your garden? Share your experiences with us in the comments section below and feel free to share a picture!

And for more information on growing hellebores, check out these guides next:

Photo of author

About

Nan Schiller is a writer with deep roots in the soil of southeastern Pennsylvania. Her background includes landscape and floral design, a BS in business from Villanova University, and a Certificate of Merit in floral design from Longwood Gardens. An advocate of organic gardening with native plants, she’s always got dirt under her nails and freckles on her nose. With wit and hopefully some wisdom, she shares what she’s learned and is always ready to dig into a new project!

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hoa tang le
hoa tang le (@guest_2501)
7 years ago

This is a wonderful flower, I like the beautiful flowers. Your information is very useful, the article is very good.

Katrina Torrance
Katrina Torrance (@guest_9047)
5 years ago

Can you plant winter flowering ones and spring flowering ones together so you have flowers for longer?
Thanks

Treva Mayo
Treva Mayo (@guest_11092)
5 years ago

Thank you for this very interesting article. I live in Wyoming and I have been seeing hellebores for several years, most of them have been planted in very large pots in front of hotels and businesses in Billings, Montana. I’ve looked in several catalogs at their beautiful colors and varieties and I’m very anxious to try a few. Thank you again for the wonderful information.

Eden
Eden (@guest_14025)
4 years ago

The table about Evergreen flowering perennial was so helpful and easy to see thoroughly. Thank you for all the tips, I’m taking that with me in growing plants!

Jackey
Jackey (@guest_16097)
4 years ago

Can they be used in pots? What size pots would be best?

Gail
Gail (@guest_16099)
4 years ago

How far apart should the plants be spaced?

Clare Groom
Clare Groom(@clareg)
Editor
Reply to  Gail
4 years ago

Hi Gail, ideally you should space them 12 to 14 inches apart to allow for adequate airflow.

Christinia bridge
Christinia bridge (@guest_25749)
3 years ago

My mum’s hellebore I got her last winter is getting smaller in size rather than bigger and I feel it is in an ideal location in her courtyard garden. How can I get it to grow new foliage?

Chancey Murphrey
Chancey Murphrey (@guest_30290)
2 years ago

I ordered mine through the mail from Amazon. They came green but had no blooms. Planted I know at least 2 years ago and still have yet to bloom any flowers! I have no clue what is going on with mine. So disappointed but hope it’s just my impatient nature and they’ll bloom soon. 🙏🏻 🌸🌷

Lisa Rogers
Lisa Rogers (@guest_45796)
1 year ago

I lost 10 Ivory Prince plants to aphids last year, can I replace them in the fall if I find any on sale at our local nurseries?