How to Grow and Care for Barberry Bushes

Berberis spp.

Barberry bushes are robust evergreen or deciduous shrubs with bright green, red, orange, or burgundy foliage.

Whether you’re growing it as a hedge, as a foundation planting, or even as an individual specimen in your ornamental garden, the barberry bush is one to consider if you’re looking for a hardy, adaptable, low-maintenance option that’s appealing throughout the year.

A close up vertical image of a Berberis vulgaris shrub growing in the garden with light green foliage and bright red berries growing in the garden pictured on a soft focus background. To the center and bottom of the frame is green and white printed text.

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Growing up to 10 feet tall, depending on the variety, members of the Berberis genus have a uniform growth habit and produce attractive foliage.

But not all barberry shrubs are alike. There are more than 400 known species of barberry plants.

Some are deciduous while others are evergreen, and some have thorns while others do not. Certain species are even considered invasive in some areas.

Most species in the genus are native to east Asia and others are from North or South America. And there are a few non-native species that have naturalized in Africa, Europe, and North America, too.

Barberry shrubs typically grow best in USDA Hardiness Zones 4 through 8, but there are some, when provided with shade during the heat of summer, that can even thrive in Zone 9.

A few rare cultivars may even be grown in even more extreme climates including that of Zones 3 and 10.

Ready to give this beautiful plant a go?

Here’s what I’ll cover:

What Is Barberry?

Barberries have dazzling foliage that can be either a vivid green or span the entire spectrum of fall colors in season; red, orange, and burgundy are popular color options available for growing in home gardens.

A close up horizontal image of a formal rock garden with a variety of different colored ornamental shrubs.

The shrubs usually produce yellow or orange flowers, and waxy purple or red berries.

These shrubs can be tall or compact, thriving in sun or shade. They are durable and generally disease-resistant, tolerating drought and poor soil with ease.

A close up horizontal image of the bright red foliage of a Japanese barberry shrub growing in the garden.

Some species of this plant, such as Berberis vulgaris, produce edible berries that are prized for their culinary applications.

The berries are commonly used in dishes like rice pilaf in Iran, for example, and to flavor many kinds of candies in Russia.

In addition, the berries from these plants have been used medicinally for more than 2,500 years.

Today, they are still a common treatment in some parts of the world for conditions like heartburn and various digestive problems.

A Note of Caution:

Though common in certain medicinal traditions, not all types of barberry are edible and may in fact be deemed mildly toxic.

Please note that livestock, pets, and children should be kept away from these plants as the thorns can cause injury.

Never consume foraged berries unless you are absolutely sure of the species.


There are a few ways to propagate barberry bushes, including by seed, rooting cuttings, and via transplant.

From Seed

If you plan to grow this plant from seed, the good news is that you can sow at any time of the year, as long as the ground is not frozen.

A close up horizontal image of clusters of bright yellow flowers pictured on a soft focus background.

The best time to plant seeds outdoors is in the fall, as they require cold stratification to germinate and this will happen naturally over the winter months. They will germinate in early to mid-spring.

If you are planting at any other time of year, or wish to start seeds indoors, you’ll need to place them in the refrigerator for six to eight weeks prior to sowing.

After you have cold stratified the seeds, mix together equal parts compost and vermiculite or perlite in a seed-starting tray. Lightly moisten the medium, and sow seeds a quarter of an inch deep and two inches apart, then cover the tray with plastic.

Place the tray of seeds in an area where temperatures are consistently between 55-65°F. Maintain even moisture in the potting medium but do not allow it become waterlogged. The seeds should germinate in one to four months.

After germination, you can remove the plastic cover.

When your seedlings are two to three inches tall, transplant to individual, three- to four- inch pots filled with potting mix.

Keep them in a protected area and maintain even moisture until they are eight to 12 inches tall when you can transplant them into the garden as described below.

From Cuttings

You can take stem cuttings in early spring from the new growth or semi-hardwood cuttings in midsummer.

A close up horizontal image of the light green leaves of a Japanese barberry shrub pictured in light filtered sunshine.

Begin by disinfecting your pruning tools to prevent the spread of disease. Then, take a four to six-inch cutting.

Strip any buds or leaves from the lower third of the cutting. Then, dip the cut end of the stem in powdered rooting hormone.

Insert the cut end in a propagation tray filled with sterile growing medium moistened with water to a depth of about two to three inches deep (or half the length of the cutting).

If you’re planting multiple cuttings, space them so that the leaves of each do not touch.

Water lightly and cover the container with a clear plastic bag or a humidity dome. Mist them regularly, at least once a day during the rooting period.

After about four weeks, you can lightly tug on the stem cutting to check for root growth.

If you feel resistance, cuttings are ready to transplant. At this point, you can transplant them to individual containers filled with sterile potting soil.

Keep them indoors or in a greenhouse, where they will be protected from the elements, for at least the first year of growth before planting out.


When planting seedlings or potted nursery plants, dig a hole that is at least three times as wide and deep as the container it is currently growing in.

You may want to mix in some organic matter and sand to improve fertility and drainage. If you’re planting in well-draining, moist soil of average fertility, this is probably not necessary.

Cut the container away from your barberry to prevent damaging the roots as you remove the plant.

Loosen some of the feeder roots and set the plant in the soil so that the top of the root ball is at or just above ground level.

Backfill with soil and water deeply.

How to Grow

Barberry bushes should be planted in full sun or partial shade. The warmer the growing zone, the more shade you should provide your plants to prevent the leaves from scorching.

A close up horizontal image of a branch of a Berberis vulgaris shrub laden with clusters of yellow flowers contrasting with the dark red foliage.

These robust plants can tolerate a variety of soil types, but ideally, they enjoy loamy, well-draining soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5.

They can tolerate moist or dry soils, as well as urban conditions, such as heavy pollution and salt spray from roadways, which makes them perfect for use as a privacy screen.

Fertilizing is not usually necessary.

However, adding a three-inch layer of organic mulch like wood chips or straw at planting time can help with moisture retention and weed prevention while the young shrub is establishing strong roots.

A close up horizontal image of the bright red berries of Berberis vulgaris growing in the garden pictured on a soft focus background.

Apply the mulch immediately after planting and reapply once per year, ideally just before the start of winter to protect the roots from freezing temperatures.

Be sure to keep it about an inch away from the stem, to prevent rot.

In some cases, growing this plant in a container may make sense for your landscaping needs. The soil should be moist but well-draining.

Use a container with drainage holes and a porous potting mix that includes pumice or perlite to assist with drainage. The pot should be around eight inches larger in diameter than the root ball of the plant.

Growing Tips

  • Plant in full sun to partial shade
  • Grow in moist, well-draining soil
  • Mulch with three inches of organic matter placed at least an inch from the plant’s stem

Pruning and Maintenance

For most varieties, pruning is not necessary. Your bushes should grow in a relatively uniform, compact fashion.

A close up horizontal image of bright red berries pictured in evening sunshine on a soft focus background.

However, you can prune if you wish to achieve a certain shape or to remove dead or diseased branches.

Try to keep pruning to a minimum. If you are pruning for shape, do so only a couple of times a year, ideally during the winter or fall after the plant has fruited.

If you are removing dead wood, you can do so in the summer or winter months.

Species and Cultivars to Select

Choose a species that best suits your unique growing conditions.

There are many types to choose from that are common in home gardens, and remember to also check that your chosen species is not considered invasive in your area.

Common Barberry

Measuring around eight feet in height and six feet in width at maturity, common barberry (B. vulgaris) is easily confused with the Japanese variety.

A close up horizontal image of bright yellow barberry flowers growing in the garden pictured in bright sunshine on a soft focus background.

It is invasive in many parts of the United States, so be cautious about planting it if you have not first checked with your local cooperative extension.

Yellow flowers that bloom in the spring lead to red fruits in the late summer. This variety also has thorns.

Japanese Barberry

Japanese barberries (B. thunbergii) are one of the most popular varieties used in landscaping and typically grows best in Zones 4-9.

A close up horizontal image of Japanese barberry growing in the garden pictured on a soft focus background.

Growing anywhere from three to six feet tall, plants produce bright green leaves that change to reveal shades of orange or red in autumn. Small red berries add winter interest after the leaves have fallen.

Considered invasive in some areas, be cautious about planting it if you haven’t checked first with your local extension office.

There are a few cultivars of this species you might consider.

One of these, available as one- to two-feet-tall bare root plants from Nature Hills Nursery, is ‘Admiration.’

A close up square image of Berberis 'Admiration' growing as a hedge with green perennial shrubs in the background.


This shrub has a bushy, compact growth habit, only reaching about two feet tall at maturity.

The smallest variety, B. thunbergii var. atropurpurea ‘Concorde,’ grows to just a foot and a half in height and width.

A close up square image of 'Concorde' barberry growing in the garden.


It produces bright purple to maroon leaves in the fall, but only when it is planted in full sun.

‘Concorde’ is available in #1 and #2 containers from Nature Hills Nursery.

‘Crimson Pygmy’ is another common Japanese cultivar that produces lovely burgundy summer and fall foliage.

A deciduous dwarf shrub, the leaves have a bronze tinge before turning completely red in the fall. It produces yellow flowers in spring and bright red berries in fall.

A close up square image of 'Crimson Pygmy' barberry shrub growing in the garden.

‘Crimson Pygmy’

Most prized for its compact, bushy growth habit, this cultivar only grows to around two feet tall and three feet wide.

You can find ‘Crimson Pygmy’ in two- and three-gallon containers available at Fast Growing Trees.

Wintergreen Barberry

Wintergreen barberry (B. julianae) is an evergreen species with thorny branches. Because of this, it is best grown as a hedge or barrier where it won’t come into direct contact with passersby.

A close up horizontal image of wintergreen barberry growing in the garden with red and green foliage and purple berries pictured on a soft focus background.

It can grow up to 10 feet tall and has dark green leaves that turn a lovely wine-red or bronze over the winter months before producing delicate yellow flowers and green foliage in the spring.

It also has purplish fruits that remain on the plant through the winter.

Mentor Barberry

This shrub is a hybrid of B. julianae and B. thunbergii. Its common name is a reference to the place in which it was hybridized, in Mentor, Ohio.

Hardy in Zones 5-8, mentor barberry (B. x mentorensis) is semi-evergreen. It loses its leaves in the coldest parts of its range, and may retain its foliage late into the fall or through the winter in warmer southern regions. It tops out at about five to seven feet tall with an upright growth habit.

This shrub has leathery leaves that turn red or orange in the fall, and tiny yellow springtime flowers.

It does not produce fruit, and has sharp thorns that can help keep deer away. A typically sterile hybrid, it is a good option for growing in areas where other types of barberry are considered invasive.

Managing Pests and Disease

Barberry is a relatively healthy shrub with few known pest or disease problems.


Although these shrubs have few mammalian pests to speak of (deer hate them!) there are a few insect pests you’ll need to keep an eye out for.

These are the most common:

Barberry Aphid

According to experts at the Connecticut State Agricultural Experiment Station, the barberry aphid, Rhopalosiphum berberidis, is one of the most common pests to attack this plant.

It is normally found on the leaves and sucks the sap from plants. It also leaves behind honeydew, a sticky substance that can attract ants and cause sooty mold.

Insecticidal soap is the most effective treatment for getting rid of these insects and preventing their eggs from overwintering in the soil.

Barberry Webworm

This pest, Omphalocera dentosa, is typically found on the twigs and leaves of plants. It will eat the leaves voraciously, not stopping until the plant is completely defoliated.

Fortunately, severe infestations are rare – your shrub shouldn’t have too much trouble bouncing back, even from a severe infestation.

However, you can use Bt or spinosad to control infestations if you choose.

Two-Banded Japanese Weevil

The two-banded Japanese weevil, Callirhopalus bifasciatus, is known to feed on all kinds of plants, including rhododendron, azalea, and barberry. It leaves behind telltale notches in the leaf tissue.

For minor pest problems, you can often just shake the bugs off the plant into a bucket of soapy water.

In severe cases, you may notice that your plant’s leaves are almost completely destroyed.

A close up vertical image of the packaging of Bonide Pyrethrin Garden Insect Spray pictured on a white background.

Bonide Pyrethrin Garden Insect Spray

If the infestation progresses this far, you will need to spray with a pyrethrin product labeled for residential use, such as Bonide Pyrethrin Garden Insect Spray, available from Nature Hills Nursery.

This can be done anytime from mid- to late summer.


Barberry shrubs are hardy, healthy plants with few disease problems to speak of. Occasionally, a susceptible plant might fall victim to one of the following diseases.


According to Marjan Kluepfel, former HGIC Horticulture Information Specialist at Clemson University, anthracnose is another disease that occasionally affects barberry plants.

Caused by species of fungi in the Colletotrichum genus, infected plants exhibit rounded brown spots on the leaves of plants.

It’s more of a cosmetic issue than anything else, but it can be prevented by planting shrubs in full sun, with plenty of room between each to allow for adequate air circulation.

If problems arise nonetheless, pruning off affected leaves can help to prevent further spread. Fungicides are rarely necessary.


Rust, particularly black stem rust, is another type of fungal disease. Caused by Puccinia graminis, evidence usually appears on the undersides of leaves in the beginning of summer.

Affected plants will exhibit vibrant orange pustules.

Consider growing a Japanese cultivar that is resistant to rust. B. thunbergii ‘BailElla’ and ‘Daybreak’ are two such options.


Verticillium wilt is a disease that affects all kinds of plants, including barberry shrubs. It causes leaves to become yellow and die back.

The soilborne fungal pathogen that’s responsible, Verticillium albo-atrum, produces spores that infect the roots of the plant and spread to the leaves and stems.

There isn’t a cure for wilt once a plant is infected, so be sure to prevent it by sanitizing your tools, and exercise caution to prevent damage to roots during the transplanting process.

Best Uses

Barberry bushes can be used as specimen plants, but are most often grown together in groups as hedges or foundation plantings. They can also be grown in containers.

A close up horizontal image of the dark red foliage of Berberis vulgaris 'Concorde' covered in drops of water.

Because many species are resistant to deer, they are grown as hedges, barriers, and even foundation plantings.

Many species also have sharp spines that make them a good choice for defensive plantings.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:Woody shrubFlower / Foliage Color:Yellow/green, red, orange, purple
Native to:Africa, Asia, Europe, North and South AmericaMaintenance:Low
Hardiness (USDA Zone):3-10, depending on varietyTolerance:Poor soil, pollution, salt
Season:All year roundSoil Type:Loamy
Exposure:Full sun to part shadeSoil pH:6.0-7.5
Time to Maturity:2+ yearsSoil Drainage:Well-draining
Spacing:3-7 feet, depending on varietyAttracts:Bees, birds
Planting Depth:1/4 inch (seeds), depth of root ball (transplants)Uses:Foundation, hedges, containers, specimen, defensive plantings
Height:3-6 feetFamily:Berberidaceae
Spread:4-7 feetGenus:Berberis
Water Needs:LowSpecies:Darwinii, dictyophylla, julianae, thunbergii, verruculosa, vulgaris
Common Pests:Aphids, webworms, weevilsCommon Diseases:Anthracnose, black stem rust, verticillium wilt

Make Beautiful Barberry the Star of the Show

If you choose to grow barberry bushes in your backyard, you’ll have a plant that captivates your attention throughout all four seasons.

Easy to grow and requiring very little care, this shrub offers interesting texture and color to the landscape.

A close up horizontal image of different colored barberry shrubs growing in the garden. The one on the left has burgundy foliage and on the right, light green.

Are you growing barberry in your garden? Let us know in the comments section below!

And if you want to read more about growing ornamental shrubs, be sure to take a look at these guides next:

Photo of author
Rebekah Pierce started a small farm with her husband in 2016 in upstate New York, near her native Adirondack Mountains. With a bachelor’s degree in English and a master’s degree in special education, she has been writing professionally since 2017, but only recently left the world of teaching to pursue writing and farming full time.

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Sarah (@guest_13456)
2 years ago

I planted three barberry bushes (I think they are the purple Japanese type), in my yard about 3 years ago, but they don’t seem to be growing bigger. They are healthy looking otherwise and flower every year. Is there something I should be doing to promote growth?

Rose Kennedy
Rose Kennedy(@rosekennedy)
Gardening Writer
Reply to  Sarah
2 years ago

Hello Sarah! I’m glad they’re healthy and flowering. It’s entirely possible that’s as big as those particular varieties get, if they’re two feet tall. Thanks for reading.

Jody (@guest_17579)
1 year ago

can You keep a rose glow barberry relatively small in a 1-2 gallon container? (For use on a balcony)

Allison Sidhu
Allison Sidhu(@allison-sidhu)
Reply to  Jody
1 year ago

‘Rose Glow’ can be pruned to keep its size in check and barberries are known for being slow-growing, but it probably won’t be happy in a container of that size for long. I’d recommend selecting a dwarf or compact variety instead, and if you have the space on your balcony, make room for a container that can hold at least five gallons instead so you can move up to a bigger one as it grows.

Last edited 1 year ago by Allison Sidhu
Nancy (@guest_17952)
1 year ago

My barberry does not grow. It stays about 8 in tall.

Allison Sidhu
Allison Sidhu(@allison-sidhu)
Reply to  Nancy
1 year ago

How long have you had it, Nancy? These plants are generally very slow-growing, and they may only put on about a foot of growth each year when given the conditions they prefer. If growth is truly stunted, this could be due to a number of factors including a lack of sun or inadequate nutrients.

Mona (@guest_19222)
1 year ago

I live in Lexington KY and am interested in planting Mentor Barberry against my back fence for security. Where can I purchase seeds cultivars or transplanting plants?

Allison Sidhu
Allison Sidhu(@allison-sidhu)
Reply to  Mona
1 year ago

Sorry for our delayed reply, Mona. We haven’t found a good source of Mentor from any of our affiliates recently, but we will be sure to update the cultivars section of this article when we do! A local nursery in your area might be a good place to check for now.
[email protected] (@guest_20123)
1 year ago

How deep do the roots get on wintergreen barberry? Will it do well on outside border of a rock garden? Thank you.

Allison Sidhu
Allison Sidhu(@allison-sidhu)
Reply to  [email protected]
1 year ago

The roots of these plants tend to be relatively shallow. As long as the soil drains well and you are able to dig to loosen the soil in this area for planting, it should do alright.

Darrell (@guest_20441)
1 year ago

I was thinking of planting three Japanese barberry to make a hedge but I’m getting a little nervous reading about its invasiveness.

Allison Sidhu
Allison Sidhu(@allison-sidhu)
Reply to  Darrell
1 year ago

Where are you located, Darrell? Japanese barberry has a tendency to become invasive in certain regions where the conditions are right, including a broad range of the US from Maine south to North Carolina and stretching west from Wisconsin to Missouri. Birds spread the seeds, so it can be difficult to keep in check. Another variety might be a better choice for your area, or you could consider the recommended hedge plants in this guide instead.

Betty (@guest_21186)
1 year ago

I was looking at Admiration Barberry with the multicolor leaves. It’s beautiful, but after reading about it more it’s a bit scary, especially about harboring ticks – yuk. I’m in Louisville, KY and wanted to use it as a foundation planting, but I am now having second thoughts. It seems never to fail, I’ll see something beautiful and then read horrible things about the plant that it is invasive (fighting bamboo for years) etc. I’m trying to find something in a small planting area 6’x12′ that will thrive on being left on it’s own. Thank you.

Allison Sidhu
Allison Sidhu(@allison-sidhu)
Reply to  Betty
1 year ago

The study that you mentioned regarding tick infestations in barberry is an interesting one – have you read it? It’s often cited but I’ve found a lot of the detail is typically omitted. It looked primarily at dense stands of mature wild growth in areas without trees in Connecticut, compared to areas of wild growth where it was controlled or absent in the studied habitat. Some barberries in the controlled area remained standing and dead, others were mulched to the ground. Ticks were gathered at certain times of year and tested for B. burgdorferi infection, and the study also tracked… Read more »

Janet (@guest_31665)
9 months ago

I planted five large barberry bushes about a month ago in Pinetop, AZ. They get several hours of sun, but not afternoon sun. The sun here in the White Mountains is intense, though. They’ve been watered daily. Their leaves are drying up and curling and falling off. No spots or discoloration. What’s wrong?

Allison Sidhu
Allison Sidhu(@allison-sidhu)
Reply to  Janet
9 months ago

Recent transplants often undergo a period of shock, and they are much more sensitive to the surrounding conditions than they will be once mature. This means they often require a bit of babying- and they might benefit from shade during the hottest part of the day in your local conditions. Transplanting in June can be rough on plants as well if it’s already particularly warm and dry.