How to Plant and Grow Juniper

Juniperus spp.

Chances are you’ve seen juniper shrubs growing all over the place, from the carefully sculpted topiaries flanking the doorway of a home, to the wild plants thriving in the unlikeliest of places.

Junipers grow in a massive range of environmental conditions, and they’ve been cultivated by numerous cultures throughout history as medicine, food, and for their ornamental value.

Perhaps another reason that they’re so ubiquitous in gardens is that they’re so darn easy to care for when planted in the right spot.

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In many areas, they don’t even need supplemental irrigation. As for fertilizing and pruning? Typically, these are rare tasks.

If you’re ready to add this classic shrub to your space, or if you just want to know how to better care for the one you already have, this article will cover all of the basics that you should know, including:

The juniper genus (Juniperus) is part of the conifer family (Cupressaceae), which includes fir, spruce, and pine trees.

Like the rest of the family, these species are evergreen with scale or needle-like leaves.

While the needle shape common on many conifers is familiar, scale leaves are the broader, fuller leaves that you see on cedar trees.

Scale leaves have small overlapping structures that resemble scales.

Junipers are native to a surprising range of different environments, from low elevations to extremely high ones, and from arid deserts to alpine tundras and temperate rainforests.

They’re found in regions across the northern hemisphere in Europe, North America, Central America, Asia, Africa, and parts of the Caribbean, such as Bermuda.

They grow so extensively that the common juniper (J. communis) is the most widespread of all conifers and one of the most widely distributed plants in the world.

One of the reasons for their prolific natures is that these shrubs can handle conditions that many other plants can’t tolerate, including drought and freezing temperatures, as well as poor, acidic, sandy, or calcareous soils.

They’re considered a “pioneer species,” which means they are the first to colonize barren environments. There is even a subspecies (J. communis ssp. alpina) that can survive above the treeline, which is the elevation limit of where most trees can grow.

As I mentioned, there are two types of juniper leaves: needle-like and scale-like.

Needle-leaf junipers have groupings of three needles joined at the base. Scale-like leaves look somewhat like those on cedar trees (and the two plants are often confused).

Most species have both types of leaves, forming needles that turn into scales as the tree matures.

Some self-fertile varieties are available, but most junipers are dioecious, which means plants are either male or female.

Males develop cones during the spring, summer, and fall. The next year, those cones pollinate the female flowers that form in the spring.

The flowers turn into cones with small bluish-black berries that are ripe during autumn and winter. Each berry holds one, two, or three seeds.

Those berries contain terpenes, tannins, sugar, tar, and resin, which give them a distinct flavor (hello, gin!), as well as medicinal properties.

Junipers can live a long time. The oldest juniper tree in the world grows in Tuolumne County, California, in the Stanislaus National Forest.

How to Grow

There are over 170 different species and varieties of junipers and you’ll find plants suitable for USDA Hardiness Zones 2 to 9.

The plants can grow as spreading ground covers, small or large shrubs, or as trees.

The situations they can’t handle? Full shade and poorly draining soil.

You should also follow the grower’s recommendations for spacing (or recommendations for your selected cultivar) since plants placed too close together are more susceptible to disease.

When you plant, be sure to consider the location thoughtfully. Junipers are notorious for growing much larger than people expect.

Light

Most species require a full sun location, but in very hot climates they can benefit from some afternoon shade.

Some species are more tolerant of part shade than others, so be sure to check which you are growing to be sure.

Soil

Junipers can handle a wide range of soils, which makes them ideal if you have a less than perfect spot in your yard.

But to give yours the best start, you may need to amend the native soil before planting.

If you have clay, work in some aged manure, shredded cedar or hardwood bark, or rotted compost.

Don’t use sand because it won’t help to improve drainage, despite what some guides recommend.

To improve sandy soil, work in manure, compost, or topsoil. And for compacted soil, add rotted compost or mulch and work it in by hand.

You should also test your soil to see if it is deficient in any of the main nutrients: nitrogen, phosphorus, or potassium (NPK).

It’s best to aim for a pH of 6.0 to 7.0, though junipers can tolerate a wider range than that if they need to.

If the pH is off or the soil is deficient in any of the main nutrients, resolve these issues before you start planting.

Water

When it comes to watering, less is more. These plants are extremely drought tolerant.

They send down lengthy taproots that can reach up to 25 feet into the soil to access water.

It’s hardly an exaggeration to say that over-watering is one of the only ways to kill a juniper. That and digging it out of the ground and burning it, and even then…

Okay, I’m kidding, but you’ll want to let the top three inches of soil dry out completely before you add more water.

If a juniper isn’t getting enough water, the plant can limit the amount of water a branch receives, effectively self-pruning it away to ensure that the rest of the tree survives.

If that starts to happen, and you confirm that it doesn’t have a disease or pest problem, you may need to provide additional water.

In Containers

Junipers are ideal if you want an ornamental container plant, and they stay smaller for longer periods if their roots are restricted.

Not only can you grow them as a traditional large container specimen or a topiary, but they are one of the easiest species to grow as a bonsai tree.

If you see roots sticking out of drainage holes or if the soil has become extremely hard and compact, it’s time to repot.

Fertilizing

After six months of being in the ground, feed your young shrub every six months with a tree and shrub fertilizer to give your plant a boost.

Any product with an NPK ratio of around 16-4-8 works well.

Vigoro Fertilizer

Vigoro makes a fertilizer targeted at evergreens that takes the guesswork out of choosing the right ratio.

You can purchase some at Home Depot.

When your shrubs become established after a few years, you don’t need to fertilize at all unless your soil is exceptionally deficient or if your plant is stressed.

Doing an annual soil test will help you determine if you have any nutrient issues that need to be addressed.

Rather than fertilizing container plants – with the exception of bonsai, which can use a yearly application of a slow-release bonsai fertilizer – it’s best to repot them with fresh potting soil every few years.

Species and Cultivars

There are dozens of species and cultivars out there, from low-growing ground covers to trees that reach 20 feet tall or more.

Foliage is available in a variety of lengths and textures from stiff and short to long and soft, and colors range from golden yellow to silvery blue.

The most common species that you’ll find in stores are:

Here are some of the more standout options available that might make a nice pick to add to your garden.

Bar Harbor

J. horizontalis ‘Bar Harbor’ is a low-growing plant that only reaches about two feet tall and eight feet wide.

‘Bar Harbor’

When mature, the foliage is scale-like with a silvery cast in the spring and summer before shifting to a subtle purple shade.

It can handle more moisture than some other types. Nature Hills Nursery carries this pretty specimen, which can grow in Zones 3 to 9.

Blue Pacific

As you might have guessed from the name, the foliage on this juniper appears to have a blue hue to it.

Use it for erosion control, in areas with sandy, poor soil, or in a spot that gets a lot of reflected heat off of windows or metal siding.

‘Blue Pacific’

Perfect for Zones 6 to 9, this low-growing plant stays under a foot tall and spreads out six or seven feet.

J. conferta ‘Blue Pacific’ is available from Fast Growing Trees.

Blue Point

J. chinensis ‘Blue Point’ has a pyramid shape and a silvery-blue cast to the foliage.

This is a medium-sized shrub, reaching up to 10 feet tall and up to six feet wide at the widest point.

‘Blue Point’

Use it as a focal point in the garden or for a living screen in Zones 3 to 9. Sound right for your spot?

Head to Fast Growing Trees to pick up one of your own.

Gold Cone

J. communis ‘Gold Cone’ has – you guessed it – a golden hue to the foliage and it grows in a columnar shape. In the winter, the foliage turns more of a blue-green.

This plant grows three to five feet tall and one to two feet wide when mature, which makes it ideal for smaller spots that need a little height.

It’s cold hardy down to Zone 2 and grows best in locations up to Zone 6.

Grey Owl

J. virginiana ‘Grey Owl’ grows in Zones 4 to 9 and reaches three feet tall and six feet wide when mature, with a lovely vase shape.

‘Grey Owl’

The needles appear blue from afar with their silver tinted green coloring.

Nature Hills Nursery carries several sizes of this pretty plant.

Hughes

J. horizontalis ‘Hughes’ is one tough cookie. It can handle salt, pollution, rocky or sandy soil, heat, frost, and snow in Zones 3 to 8.

It also resists pests and disease. It stays compact at 15 to 18 inches tall and spreads up to eight feet wide, which makes it ideal as a ground cover or trailing over a rock wall.

‘Hughes’

It has silvery-blue foliage that looks slightly purple.

Nab one for your yard at Nature Hills Nursery.

Kallay’s Compact

This shrub grows to about two or three feet tall and spreads out four to six feet. The needles are soft and bright green with a subtle silvery cast when planted in full sun.

It works well for erosion control, as a ground cover, or to replace a water-hungry lawn in Zones 4 to 8.

This is a hybrid known as Juniperus x pfitzeriana, which is a cross between J. chinensis and J. sabina.

‘Kallay’s Compact’

If you’re ready to plant one of these in your yard, head to Nature Hills Nursery and pick one up.

Skyrocket

J. scopulorum ‘Skyrocket’ is a tall, columnar cultivar with blue-green foliage.

This one has a mature height of about 15 feet but it stays narrow at just two to three feet wide.

‘Skyrocket’

Suitable for cultivation in Zones 4 to 9, ‘Skyrocket’ is ideal for adding vertical interest to a space or for use as a privacy screen if planted in rows.

You can find ‘Skyrocket’ available at Fast Growing Trees.

And check out our guide to growing ‘Skyrocket’ to learn more.

Maintenance

Junipers can be pruned any time when the wood isn’t frozen, but late winter or early spring before new growth begins is ideal.

Keep in mind that you don’t need to prune your shrubs at all unless you want to remove unsightly wood or diseased branches, you want to limit their size, or you want to encourage a specific shape.

Most junipers grow quite slowly, so you won’t need to be out there with your pruners every year, wrestling things back into shape.

Ground cover type shrubs don’t need to be pruned at all unless you want to lightly trim the edges to keep them in shape.

Never trim more than a quarter of the plant at a time. Avoid pruning the central leader (the main trunk) on plants with an upright growth habit.

To begin, cut back any unwanted stems to the ground or main trunk using a pair of pruners or a saw.

Next, it’s time to perform any heading cuts that you want to make. This encourages branching and bushier growth.

Finally, you can make some thinning cuts. This involves completely removing any branches back to the base in order to thin out bushy growth.

Remove any dead or bare branches.

Whether you choose to have a free-form shrub or a precisely trimmed topiary is simply a matter of preference.

Don’t prune back older needle-less wood unless you intend to remove the branch altogether. New growth won’t form, and you’ll be left with an unattractive, bare stump of wood.

You can learn more about how to prune junipers here.

Propagation

The most reliable ways to obtain junipers for your garden are by taking a cutting, air layering, or by purchasing a plant from a nursery.

It’s technically possible to grow juniper from seed, but I don’t recommended trying.

Planting by seed requires up to four years before you’ll have a shrub you can transplant, and the process isn’t easy.

Germination is unreliable, and the seeds require a lengthy stratification period.

Keep in mind that if you want to harvest the berries, you’ll need to propagate or purchase a self-fertile type, or both a male and a female plant.

From Cuttings

Cuttings are the most reliable, not to mention fast, way of reproducing your shrubs.

In early to mid-spring, take a six- to eight-inch cutting from a hardwood branch that is at least a quarter of an inch in diameter (wear gloves!).

Snip the bottom of each at a 45-degree angle and remove the leaves from the bottom half.

Dip the cut end in a rooting hormone compound.

Combine one part sand with three parts seed starting soil. Then, combine that with an equal amount of perlite or vermiculite and mix well. Fill a four-inch pot with this mixture.

Insert the cutting so that at least two inches are buried.

Place in a spot with bright, indirect sunlight and keep the soil moist but not wet.

Via Air Layering

In the spring, when air temperatures are above 45°F, locate a branch or stem that is at least a quarter inch in diameter, a foot long, and woody.

Clip away any foliage from the middle four inches.

Using a clean, sharp knife, cut two parallel vertical rings around the branch about an inch apart. Then, use the knife to strip away the bark between the two cuts.

The goal is to just expose the lighter interior wood, which means you’ll need to cut through the bark and green cambium layer.

Then, wrap moistened sphagnum moss around the cut. The moss should extend about an inch above and below the cut.

Cover the sphagnum moss in clear plastic and secure it at the top and bottom with zip ties, twist ties, or string.

If the moss dries out, pour in a little water or spray and reseal.

Transplanting

Transplanting should be done in the spring after the ground is workable or in the fall.

Dig a hole twice as wide and the same depth as the container your juniper is growing in.

Remove your plant from its container by squeezing the sides to loosen the soil, then gently pull it out and loosen the roots.

Place it in the ground and fill in around it with the soil you removed from the hole.

Give the plant a good soaking to settle the soil.

Pests and Disease

Junipers are sturdy, and they don’t often fall victim to diseases or pests. They’re also resistant to many of the herbivores that plague other plants.

That said, you might bump up against some issues now and then. Here’s what to watch for:

Herbivores

I know, you’re probably thinking that you’ve heard junipers aren’t appealing to herbivores such as rabbits and deer.

There are plenty of articles on the internet touting these hardy plants as deer and rabbit proof, and it’s true that they’re not often their first choice.

I hate to be the one to bring you bad news, but animals will take a bite out of juniper shrubs, especially if other food is scarce.

Damage can range from no big deal to devastating, depending on the species, cultivar, and the age of the plant.

A tiny sapling is extremely vulnerable, while an established shrub usually won’t be bothered much at all.

When I was living in Utah, deer (and rabbits) would regularly devour my juniper saplings, and one harsh winter, the deer ate all the foliage on my older Rocky Mountain junipers (J. scopulorum) from about six feet down.

Pests

There are a few common pests that attack junipers.

Pests are more likely to have an impact on stressed trees, so do your best to keep your plant healthy with good watering and feeding practices.

Aphids

Aphids are impossible to avoid, and at some point, every gardener will come in contact with them.

Junipers may be attacked by several types of aphids from different genera, but there is one group of species known as the giant conifer aphids (Cinara spp.) that are often found feeding on these shrubs in particular.

Aphids won’t kill an established juniper, but they can make the foliage turn yellow or brown. A secondary issue is that they leave behind a sticky substance called honeydew that attracts sooty mold.

Fortunately, they aren’t hard to get rid of. Spray your plant with a blast of water to knock the little pests loose. They rarely find their way back to a plant.

Monterey Horticultural Spray

You can also apply horticultural oil spray, like this one from Monterey, which you can pick up at Arbico Organics.

Need more info? Our guide to dealing with aphids has lots more tips.

Bagworms

Want to know how bagworms (Thyridopteryx ephemeraeformis) got their name? The caterpillars create large bags during the fall that look a lot like conifer cones.

These bags are filled with hundreds of eggs.

When the larvae hatch in the spring, they crawl out and feed on the foliage.

While an established plant can probably survive an infestation, a stressed or young shrub can be completely defoliated and killed, especially if it’s attacked year after year.

If you spot the bags, remove and dispose of them.

A spray containing the beneficial bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis is also effective if applied in the spring when the larvae are emerging.

Monterey Bt Spray

Monterey makes a liquid spray available at Arbico Organics.

Juniper Scale

Juniper scale insects (Carulaspis juniperi) are two millimeters long, with hard shells. In small numbers, they aren’t too much of a problem, but large infestations can kill plants over time.

The first sign is yellowish-brown foliage and an overall appearance of being dry and wilted. Later, branches die off, followed by the entire plant dying.

These insects suck the juice out of needles, leaving behind sticky honeydew.

Prune away infested branches. Make sure your plant is getting enough water and fertilizer, if necessary, since a healthy plant is better able to withstand this pest.

You can also use horticultural oils to suffocate the insects. Alternately, insecticidal soap will kill them off.

Bonide Super Soap

Try Bonide’s Super Soap, available at Arbico Organics.

You’ll likely need to reapply multiple times throughout the growing season. Check the manufacturer’s recommendations for application timing.

Spider Mites

Spider mites are a common garden pest, and spruce spider mites (Oligonychus ununguis) in particular enjoy a nibble on plants in the Cupressaceae family.

These tiny arachnids are too small to see, unless you get in really close. But if you notice fine webbing on your plant and tiny yellow spots on the needles, you likely have an infestation.

Unlike other mites, spruce mites prefer cool weather, so watch for them in the spring and fall.

As with aphids, a strong spray of water can knock the pests loose.

If that doesn’t work, a broad-spectrum insecticide like Bonide Mite-X can kill them off.

Bonide Mite-X

Arbico Organics carries this potent spray. Just be judicious in using it, as it can kill off beneficial bugs as well.

Disease

I know we spent a lot of time talking about how junipers are survivors, but that doesn’t mean they can’t fall ill now and then.

Keep an eye out for the following:

Cedar Apple Rust

Gymnosporangium clavariiforme and G. cornutum cause cedar apple rust in juniper shrubs, particularly J. virginiana.

In the summer, watch for large two-inch galls forming near the tips of the branches.

In the following spring, these galls produce long, jelly-like growths known as teliohorns that are filled with spores just waiting to blow away to infect other trees.

Junipers that are infected have stunted growth, may become weak, and can eventually die.

Apples, crabapples, hawthorns, and quince trees serve as alternate hosts for this disease, and when the spores leave the juniper, they go in search of these other trees to complete their life cycle.

Prune away any galls that you spot. They look like small walnuts or wrinkly bulbs at the ends of branches.

Needle Cast Fungus

Needle cast is a disease that causes the previous year’s needle growth to turn reddish brown and fall off the shrub. This typically happens in late winter.

The infected needles on the ground release spores that will go on to reinfect the tree the next year.

Clean up all fallen needles as soon as they drop and dispose of them.

Root Rot

Here’s the number one reason why you should never overwater your juniper, or plant it soil with poor drainage:

Junipers with wet feet are prone to root rot.

This disease is caused by several water molds (technically called oomycetes), including those from the Pythium genus, as well as Phytophthora cinnamomi and P. austrocedrae.

They attack the roots, which begin to rot away. The disease also causes cankers or splitting bark that may ooze a dark liquid. Lower branches may die back.

To prevent root rot, amend your soil if you have heavy clay or consider planting in a raised bed.

Don’t water until the soil is dried out at least three inches down and always err on the side of too dry rather than too wet.

Best Uses

If you want to support wildlife in your area, these shrubs are a good option.

There are species and cultivars that make perfect ground covers and can help prevent erosion in dry areas or replace water-hungry lawns. They’re ideal in xeriscaping.

Taller shrubs are beautiful as specimens or in groupings in your landscaping. If you want a stand-out option, train them into topiary.

They can also be used as windbreaks or to create living fences.

Humans (and animals) also consume the berries, perhaps most famously in good old gin.

Speaking of, want to make your own compound gin at home? Steep one ounce of juniper berries in two cups of vodka for two days. Strain out the berries, and enjoy!

If you want to make the flavor a bit more complex, you can add whole dried cardamom, allspice, bay leaves, grapefruit peels, coriander seeds, or peppercorns after the juniper berries have steeped for a day.

Avoid any berries from Saving juniper (J. sabina), Cade junpier (J. oxycedrus), and Mountain cedar (J. ashei), among others. When in doubt, check with an expert.

The fresh or dried berries are an essential part of Nordic cooking, as well. I can’t imagine my bedstemor’s gravlax without them.

If you plan to collect the berries, wait until late fall and handpick them or shake them off the shrub onto a tarp. The fruits should be dark blue and slightly soft.

Juniper berries covered in a powdery substance or that are light blue or hard are immature.

And remember, be sure to positively identify your plant before you dig in. Those of the common juniper (J. communis) are always a safe bet.

Get a Jump on Your Juniper Gardening

Juniper shrubs have been grown in gardens pretty much for as long as humans have been cultivating plants.

Ancient Egyptians grew them as medicine, and Japanese gardeners have used them as specimens in tsukiyama (artificial hill gardens) and chaniwa (tea ceremony gardens) for centuries.

Are you growing juniper? Let us know in the comments section below – and feel free to share a picture!

If this guide helped you feel as though you’re ready to tackle juniper gardening in your space, check out some of these other helpful next:

• Blue Star Juniper: How to Grow These Hardy Garden Staples
• Tips for Growing Spartan Juniper
• When and How to Harvest Juniper Berries