How to Grow and Care for Lithops Living Stone Plants

Lithops spp.

Have you ever joked about wanting a pet rock? How about a living stone, instead? And yes, I’m talking about growing lithops succulent plants!

Masters of mimicry, living stones are fascinating, but these quirky little plants also have quirky little care routines.

These succulent plants camouflage themselves as stones, appearing in very muted colors to help them blend into their surrounding natural habitat of rocky, gravelly terrain.

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Referred to as “mimicry plants,” lithops have evolved to hide from hungry animals hunting for leafy green foods.

This low-profile growth habit also allows lithops to protect themselves from harsh climates, as the bulk of the plant is located underground.

Ready to find out how to grow and care for living stones? Here’s what we’ll cover:

Lithops hail from southern Africa, with populations native to Botswana, Namibia, and South Africa.

In the wild, they grow in habitats composed of bare rocky ground, dry grassland, and scrubland. The soils in their native environments tend to be rocky and sandy.

Most species originate in climates that are hot in the summer, with autumn rains, and cool or cold winters.

Lithops are members of the ice plant or “fig marigold” family, Aizoaceae.

Members of this family include ice plant (Delosperma lehmannii), New Zealand spinach (Tetragonia tetragonioides), and baby toes (Fenestraria spp.).

Relatives include additional mimicry plants such as Conophytum, Dinteranthus, and Pleiospilos species. Pleiospilos species are known as “split rock plants.”

Lithops and other members of this family are often called “mesembs,” which is short for Mesembryanthemaceae, a synonym for Aizoaceae.

They can be grown outside year round in USDA Hardiness Zones 9b to 11b, provided you can protect them from excessive rain.

Anatomy and Markings

Lithops are unusual plants and describing them requires specialized terms:

Bodies or Heads

The “body” is the fleshy part of the lithops plant, not including its roots. Part of the body grows underground, while the rest is visible aboveground.

The bodies – made up of two fused leaves – are about two inches tall and shaped like hearts, double wedges, or inverted cones, with the pointy, downward end giving way to small roots.

Depending on the species, only the top half-inch or so of the body may emerge from the ground, while some are elongated, with more of the plant above the soil line.

The bodies range from about half an inch to an inch and a half wide, depending on the species.

The term “head” is another term for body, but usually refers to the part of the plant that is above ground.

Some living stone species produce just one head per plant during their entire lives, while others may produce clumps consisting of dozens of heads.

Lobes and Faces

Lithops bodies are made up of two thick, fleshy, fused leaves, called “lobes” – two lobes make a head.

The lobes of some species are equal in size, while others are asymmetrical.

Additionally, there is variation in the depth of the fissure between the two lobes – some having a shallow cleft and others a deep one.

Some lobes grow close together (these are described as “flush faces”), while others are divergent, with a wide gap between the two.

The tops of the lobes, when viewed from the side, can be either more or less flat, or rounded.

When the plant is well-watered the lobes may become more convex or when the plant is thirsty, the tops of the lobes may become slightly concave.

Looking down on them from above, lithops heads are more or less round or oval shaped, and viewed from this angle, each leaf is known as a “face.” Each head or body has two faces.

Fissures and Molting

Both flowers and new leaves emerge from the slit (usually referred to as the “fissure”) between the two fused leaves, each at different seasons in the year.

Most lithops species produce flowers in autumn and new leaves in spring.

When new leaves emerge, the body goes through a process called “molting” – the old leaves dry out and are shed to make way for a new set of leaves.

This results in some living stone species eventually having many heads on one plant.

Flowers

Only one flower is produced per head, and this is held upwards on a very short stem.

Flowers are daisy-like, and usually yellow or white – or yellow and white. In some species, flowers can be shades of bronze or pink.

These emerge in fall in most species and in bright sun, usually at noon.

Windows

To make up for their leaves being mostly underground, the top part of each lobe has what is known as a “window” – a translucent section of the face.

Windows are also sometimes called “seas” or “lakes.” These windows allow light into the plant for photosynthesis.

If you were to cut a lithops in cross section from top to bottom, you’d find translucent tissue inside the leaves below the windows, as well as green tissue lining the inside of the body.

This window is more visible in some species than in others. Some are unobstructed and broad, taking up most of the face – plants like these are sometimes referred to as having “open” windows.

Sometimes small round dots of window are present among the opaque markings, and these are called “miniature windows.”

There are special terms used to describe these markings.

Islands and Peninsulas

Many living stones have “islands” on their faces. Imagine that the window is a body of water – the islands are opaque markings that seem to float in this body of water.

Islands can be large or small, few or numerous, and their edges can be more or less rounded, or quite jagged.

As they do in real bodies of water, “peninsulas” on living stones jut out from the edges of the face into the window.

Margins and Shoulders

Margins are bands of color around the windows, or, in the absence of windows, along the edges of the face.

Living stone plants sometimes have both inner and outer margins but they are not always discernible.

Sometimes living stone margins are the same color as the body, other times they are different colors.

The term “shoulders” is used to describe the edges of the lithops face, beyond the outer margins. The shoulders are sometimes yet another color.

Channels

Some windows have so many opaque markings obscuring them that the parts of the windows that are still apparent are referred to as “channels.”

Channels can be narrow or broad, are sometimes furrowed into the face’s surface, and are sometimes lined with additional markings.

Dusky Dots

Some species have what are called “dusky dots” decorating their surfaces.

These can be indented, flush with the surface, slightly raised, or very much in relief, in which case they may be referred to as “warts” or “pimples” depending on the size.

Dusky dots can be dark gray, dark green, or brown.

While there are sometimes small, dot shaped windows on the face, those are translucent while dusky dots are opaque.

Rubrications

Many species of lithops have dark reddish patterns on their faces, called “rubrications.”

Rubrications can take the form of lines, dots, checks, or stars, and they often line channels, creating either a connected network of patterns, or a broken network.

Note that not all of these features are found on each plant.

The combination of these markings along with their anatomical characteristics is what allows these miniature marvels to be distinguished from one another!

How to Grow

Lithops don’t need frequent care, but their care does require more mental effort and planning than the average houseplant.

In this section you’ll find general lithops care that will work for the majority of the species – there are some exceptions, so be sure to check specific directions for your chosen species.

Climate

These plants tolerate a wide range of temperatures, from highs of 107°F down to sub-freezing temps of 23°F, but exposure to these extremes should be limited.

They will also be happiest in low humidity with good air circulation.

Light

Lithops can be grown in direct sun, or a mix of direct sun and bright, indirect light.

Aim for at least four to five hours of direct sun per day – a south-facing windowsill is ideal.

Always increase sun exposure gradually to prevent the plants being damaged by sun scald.

If your home gets particularly hot during summer, decrease the amount of exposure to direct sun, by adding a sheer white curtain to the window or moving the plant further away.

Water

The amount of water living stones need will depend on the amount of sun exposure, temperature, and the how much moisture the potting soil retains.

You should err on the side of underwatering rather than overwatering.

In general, if your plant starts to shrivel a bit and feel soft, it might be time to water.

However, before you pick up your houseplant watering can, there’s also a seasonal watering schedule you’ll need to know about first.

Late summer to autumn is when the majority of living stones need the most water, before and during flowering.

Starting in late summer, water once every two to four weeks, allowing the growing medium to dry out between waterings.

In late winter or early spring a living stone will start to molt, shedding its old skin to produce a new pair of leaves, or two new pairs of leaves.

It’s important not to water at this time. The new growth will take the moisture it needs from the old growth, leaving the old leaves to turn into a thin, desiccated skin.

When the old leaves have completely dried up, begin to water again, approximately every two weeks, allowing the growing medium to dry between waterings.

During the heat of summer, the plant will go through another dormancy period, and during this time, water only if the plant is shriveling, and if it’s very hot, reduce direct sun exposure as well.

Begin watering again in late summer.

Overwatered living stones can develop diseases and sometimes even burst – but the first sign you’ll notice is elongation.

Some species are naturally elongated, so you need to know the typical characteristics of the type you’re growing.

Soil

Since their native habitats consist of rocky, gritty, sandy soils, you’ll want to try to mimic those conditions when choosing a growing medium for your lithops plant.

Avoid growing mediums that contain non-renewable peat, which is not an appropriate ingredient.

To learn more about what professional lithops growers use in the way of growing mediums, I reached out to Jane Evans, co-owner of Living Stones Nursery in Tucson Arizona, a business which only sells to local customers.

Evans told me that their lithops potting mix is 50 percent cactus mix and 50 percent pumice.

So keep this 50:50 ratio in mind when creating your own succulent potting soil for your living stones.

A ready-to-use, commercial cactus and succulent soil in itself is not quite right for lithops. Additional grit is required.

Fertilizing

Fertilizing is not necessary as these succulents evolved to thrive in poor soils. Some professional growers fertilize frequently and others do so very rarely or not at all.

One option is to offer a gentle fertilizer when repotting, such as Dr. Earth’s Succulence Organic Pump and Grow Cactus and Succulent Plant Food.

Dr. Earth’s Succulence Pump & Grow

It’s available in a 16-ounce pump bottle via Arbico Organics.

Species and Varieties to Select

There are many species, subspecies, naturally occurring varieties, and cultivars of lithops.

You can learn more in our guide to 37 different types of lithops.

Here are a few of my favorites:

Karasmontana

L. karasmontana earned the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit in 2002.

With a lot of variability, the species can appear in shades of brick red, beige, yellow, brown, pink, grayish white, or grayish green.

This species usually produces two to six heads, but can sometimes be found in mature clumps of 12 or more.

Their faces have a bumpy texture.

‘Top Red’ is a cultivar that has a beige to gray body, and broad, furrowed, brick red channels.

Lithops Karasmontana ‘Top Red’ Seeds

You can find packets of 50 ‘Top Red’ seeds from the Micro Landscape Design Store via Amazon.

Otzeniana

L. otzeniana is usually olive green, but can also appear in muted shades of pink, cream, or blue.

This living stone has a deep fissure between its two leaves and lobes that are slightly divergent.

With distinct margins around the translucent windows, L. otzeniana has large rounded peninsulas and islands framing its windows.

L. otzeniana bears yellow flowers with white centers.

Rubra

A cultivar of L. optica, ‘Rubra’ is milky pink to reddish purple in color, with translucent windows and smooth faces.

There’s a very deep fissure between the two leaves, which gives this plant a different profile than many other lithops species.

The faces are smooth with broad, dark purple or reddish windows, and distinct margins. They usually lack islands.

The flowers are white, and often have pink tips.

Lithops Optica ‘Rubra’

You can find a three pack of one- to two-year-old ‘Rubra’ plants via the Micro Landscape Design Store via Amazon.

Maintenance

A mulch of gravel or coarse sand is typically added to the top of the growing medium. This keeps the living stone’s head dry and also helps to keep the plant upright.

You won’t have to repot very often – on average, only about once every two years if it needs extra room because it’s producing multiple heads.

Just make sure to choose succulents with similar water and humidity needs.

If you want to save living stone seeds for propagation, you’ll need at least two plants since they need to cross pollinate.

To save seeds, after flowering make sure to bottom water. This is because water droplets hitting the top of the plant will cause the seed pods to open, prematurely.

Allow pods to fully mature and dry out before harvesting, then store seeds for at least one year before planting. Seeds will remain viable for many years.

Propagation

Currently lithops populations are under increasing threat in the wild as a result of habitat loss and poaching.

There are two ways to propagate lithops – from seed and by dividing plants, both of which are easy. Let’s look at each of these:

From Seed

Late spring, late summer, and early autumn are all good times to propagate living stones from seeds.

While adult lithops can be grown in a gritty, mostly mineral based mix, seedlings need a medium with a bit more moisture retention.

An ideal mix for this purpose is to combine one part coarse silica sand with two parts cactus and succulent potting medium.

Something like Tank’s-Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix, available via Arbico Organics.

Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix

Fill nursery pots with moist growing medium, leaving an inch and a half of space between the top of the growing medium and the rim of the pot.

On top of the growing medium place a half-inch layer of small river rocks or coarse silica sand.

Mix the very tiny lithops seeds with about a tablespoon of fine sand – you can sow 10 to 30 seeds per pot.

Sprinkle the sand and seed mixture onto the layer of small river rocks, then moisten with a few gentle mists from a spray bottle.

Cover the pots or tray with a humidity dome or plastic bags or wrap. Secure the plastic wrap or bags with rubber bands.

If you are using plastic wrap or plastic bags, poke a few holes in them with a toothpick to provide some ventilation.

Molded plastic humidity domes usually come with vents – you just need to open them slightly.

Locate the pots at room temperature in bright, indirect light to germinate.

Keep an eye on the humidity dome, plastic bag, or plastic wrap covering your pots. When condensation disappears from this covering, it’s time to water again.

Remove the covering and gently spray the growing medium with a water bottle to keep the humidity high, then replace the covering.

Water the uncovered young seedlings daily by spraying their growing medium with a spray bottle.

After two to three months, progressively increase the time between waterings, allowing the growing medium to dry out for a few days.

Wait 18 to 24 months before transplanting seedlings to individual pots.

Learn more about growing succulents from seed.

By Division

Living stones that have more than one head can be divided.

Remember, each head is made up of two leaves. Some species can form multi-headed plants, but not all.

So, just to be clear – don’t split a single head apart, instead, wait until a plant has at least two heads – or in other words, at least two sets of fused leaves.

The best time to divide is after the plant has finished molting in spring.

Fill pots with suitable growing medium, leaving an inch of space at the top.

Remove the lithops from its pot, then gently remove the growing medium from around the roots.

Gently separate the heads from one other at the roots, you may need to cut them apart with sterilized scissors or snips.

Remove any dry leaves or dead flower stems from the body, then allow the heads to dry for an hour before continuing.

Make a hole in the growing medium, and insert one of the heads into the hole, root side down.

The soil level should reach approximately to the leaf fissure. Depending on the species, the plant will be mostly buried with only the top inch or half inch above the soil line.

Wait two weeks before watering.

Pests and Disease

Healthy lithops plants are generally pest free.

Be on the lookout for mealybugs, scale, thrips, aphids, and spider mites. Fungus gnats can be a problem for young seedlings which are kept in more humid conditions.

Rot is the only real disease risk and can be prevented with proper watering, the right soil, and excellent drainage.

Read our article about rotting in succulents to learn more.

Lithops – Much More Fun Than a Pet Rock!

Living stones are unique and compact succulents that make excellent houseplants provided you have plenty of sunlight and just the right amount of restraint with the watering can.

And while for most of the year they may look like nothing more than pet rocks, you’ll know these living stones are ready to produce magic throughout the seasons – beautiful flowers, and sets of fresh new leaves.

What do you love most about lithops? Tell us in the comments section – and if you need help troubleshooting, let us know, we’d be happy to help!

Want to keep learning about cultivating cacti and succulents? Have a read of these guides next:

• How to Grow and Care for Succulents
• How to Grow Succulents Outdoors in the Garden
• How to Care for Succulents in Winter