How to Grow Spathoglottis (Ground) Orchids

Spathoglottis spp.

Spathoglottis, commonly known as ground or purple orchids, are tropical, terrestrial plants with vivid, grass-like foliage and jewel-toned flowers that bloom over a long season.

Tough but delicate, this species doesn’t scream for attention like a Phalaenopsis, with its huge blossoms and bright colors.

These orchids sing in a more subtle way, with smaller flowers that sparkle like little gems against the emerald-green foliage in the garden or home.

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Even when they’re not in bloom, the grass-like foliage is a beautiful addition to any space.

If you’re not already in love, consider the fact that these are some of the easiest orchids to care for. We’ll talk about that and more coming right up.

Here’s what I’ll cover:

Spathoglottis is a genus of about 50 terrestrial orchid species. They grow in soil in the ground rather than clinging to trees like many of the more familiar epiphytic orchids.

They all have pseudobulbs aboveground, fibrous roots underground, and fleshy, pleated leaves.

The genus name comes from the Greek word “spatha” for broad and “glottis” for tongue. That “broad tongue” they’re referencing is the flower’s labellum or lowermost petal.

You’ll see these referred to as ground, purple, patio, or Philippine ground orchids, though not all of them are purple.

Blossoms can be white, cream, yellow, pink, or red, and each flower spike or inflorescence can reach over 30 inches long, carrying dozens of colorful blooms.

Depending on the conditions, Spathoglottis can bloom nearly year-round.

They’re native to parts of Australia, Borneo, China, India, Indonesia, Malaysia, New Caledonia, New Guinea, the Philippines, and the Solomon Islands, and they’ve naturalized broadly in the tropics, especially Hawaii.

There are 16 of these alliances and Spathoglottis is allied to Calanthe and Phaius.

These orchids are sympodial, which means they have a horizontal rhizome underground from which the leaves emerge.

S. plicata was the first species discovered in the genus and is considered the type species. It was classified in 1825 by Dutch-German botanist Charles Ludwig Blume.

From there, other species were identified and hobbyists and botanists were quick to start hybridizing the many species.

The first recorded success was in 1897 when botanist John Gould Veitch crossed S. aurea with S. viellardii.

As a ground cover or in groupings, few orchids can compete with Spathoglottis. It’s also ideal for lining walkways or filling shady spots. Indoors, they cheer up any space with their colorful flowers.

Plant them with hostas, hellebores, fuchsia, hydrangea, coral bells, astilbe, or phlox.

How to Grow

Double-check the needs of your species before planting. However, you can generally assume that they will do well with the following conditions:

Light

Let’s start with light, since it can make or break your success with these orchids.

While they can tolerate full sun in cooler climates, give Spathoglottis partial sun or partial shade in warmer areas.

Dappled sunlight is perfect. Indoors, provide bright, indirect light or direct morning sun. A north- or east-facing window is ideal.

When you bring a new plant home, introduce it to brighter light gradually and give it a few weeks to adjust.

Soil

Unlike epiphytic orchids like Phalaenopsis, Spathoglottis need to grow in actual soil.

Outdoors, amend the ground with lots of well-rotted compost. This improves drainage, adds nutrients, and helps retain moisture.

For container cultivation, look for a potting medium that is water-retentive and organically-rich.

Something like De La Tank’s houseplant medium would be ideal, it’s made with compost for nutrients, pumice to improve airflow, and coco coir for moisture retention.

De La Tank’s Potting Soil

Pick up one-, eight-, or 16-quart bags at Arbico Organics.

Water

Spathoglottis like their soil to remain moist at all times, but not soggy.

Too much water sitting around the roots will lead to rot and letting the soil dry out completely will stress the plant.

I wish I could tell you to simply water once a week with two ice cubes or some other generic advice, but we’re all dealing with different conditions.

You might have drier air or more heat in your home than the next gardener, which means you’ll need to water more often. Or maybe your potting soil dries out faster.

Conditions can change from month to month. It’s best to use a moisture meter or touch the soil to determine how wet it is. When the top inch of soil is starting to dry out, it’s time to water.

Temperature and Humidity

These orchids do best in a humidity range of between 60 and 70 percent, but they will survive slightly outside of this range.

If temperatures drop below 60°F for extended periods, flowering will stop or be delayed. Protect plants outdoors with frost cloth if needed.

Fertilizing

Feed plants in the ground with compost. Side-dress them once or twice during the growing season, but don’t pile it against the foliage.

For indoor plants, look for a fertilizer specifically formulated to support blooming.

I used Down to Earth’s Rose and Flower Mix which has an NPK ratio of 4-8-4, with extra phosphorus to boost flowering.

Down to Earth Rose and Flower Mix

You can find Down to Earth Rose and Flower Mix available from Arbico Organics in a biodegradable box.

Feed monthly during spring, summer, and fall, and once in the winter.

Learn more about fertilizing orchids here.

Species and Cultivars

These plants can be a little difficult to find, but with a little searching you can find some great options. Here are just a few notable varieties:

Berry Banana Sorbet

This was the first Spathoglottis I ever saw, and no wonder I fell in love with the genus then and there.

The flowers have a reddish-purple base with soft, watercolor-like brushstrokes of white at the tips of the petals and a sunny yellow center.

It looks good enough to eat on a warm summer day when it’s in full bloom.

‘Berry Banana Sorbet’ is a hybrid of S. plicata and S. kimballiana and reaches about three feet tall when flowering.

Bulbosa

In the low-elevation forests of New Guinea, S. bulbosa sends up tall stalks topped with deep purple flowers that measure around three inches across.

Described by botanist Friedrich Richard Rudolf Schlechter in 1912, this species is a bit fussier about consistent moisture than its cousin S. plicata.

Duranii

With bright magenta, pink, and yellow blooms that can appear year-round, S. duranii is nothing short of showstopping.

The two-inch flowers are the reason this species has been used extensively in hybridization—but the species itself deserves more attention.

Though it’s still uncommon outside of its native range in Asia, it’s well worth growing if you can find it.

In bloom, plants reach about three feet tall.

Far Out Freckles

There are a lot of Spathoglottis hybrids out there, but Far Out Freckles is one of my favorites.

It’s the one I have accenting my own garden.

You can see the plicata parentage in the fuchsia tips, but what sets this one apart is the creamy base speckled with purple freckles and a sunny yellow center.

It blooms for months through summer and fall, often sending up multiple flower stalks at the same time.

Even when it’s not flowering, the grass-like foliage adds color and texture to the garden.

Kimball’s

Kimball’s orchid (S. kimballiana) grows alongside rocky riverbeds in Borneo and the Philippines and nowhere else.

But its two-inch, bright yellow blossoms have made it a popular in cultivation, so you can enjoy it no matter where you live.

First described by Joseph Dalton Hooker in 1895, Kimball’s can grow up to four feet tall when blooming. It’s named for an American orchid enthusiast of the late 1800s, W. S. Kimball.

Plicata

Commonly known as the Philippine ground orchid, S. plicata is one of the most widely grown species in the genus.

Most plants have fuchsia-purple flowers, but you’ll also find forms with white, yellow, or bicolored blooms. Some are pale and understated, while others are intensely vibrant.

If you head to a nursery looking for ground orchids, this is probably the species you’ll find or one of its many hybrids.

Most varieties bloom for months, and some will flower nearly year-round.

Slender

Slender spathoglottis (S. gracilis) hails from the low- to mid-elevation forests of Borneo and Malaysia.

Hybrids and cultivars derived from this species are especially popular, with ‘Adams,’ ‘Crownfox,’ and ‘Solarflare’ among the standouts.

Maintenance

There’s very little maintenance with these plants. Trim off damaged, diseased, or pest-infested leaves as you see them.

When the flowers have faded, you can remove the flower stalk by cutting it off at the base or one inch above the base using a sanitized knife or pruners.

Replace the potting soil every three years, as the soil tends to break down, become compact and depleted, and sometimes even hydrophobic.

To do this, remove the plant and dump out the existing soil. Brush the excess soil from the roots.

Clean out the container with hot, soapy water and repot the orchid in fresh potting medium.

Outdoor plants don’t need any help to rebloom.

But indoor-grown Spathoglottis may need a little extra attention to encourage flowering. You can learn how to do that here.

Propagation

Orchid propagation is a wild, wild world. Talk to one grower and they’ll tell you one thing. Talk to another and they’ll tell you the exact opposite works for them.

Most serious orchid enthusiasts practically have a laboratory in their greenhouse where they work like mad scientists.

That’s probably why many of us leave the propagation to the experts and just buy our specimens.

But I can say from personal experience that if you go in with an open mind and a sense of adventure, you never know what you’ll end up with. You have nothing to lose, right?

From Seed

Yes, you can grow orchids from seed.

But it’s complicated, time-consuming, and definitely not for beginners. You’ll need special equipment, lots of patience, and a clean environment.

If you’re feeling brave, we have a full guide to starting orchids from seed to walk you through the process. You’ll learn a lot about orchids and propagation in general!

From Stem Cuttings

When your orchid has finished blooming, don’t toss the flower stalk.

Cut it off at the base, and then make another cut just below the last spent flower. That’s your cutting. Discard the top section.

Depending on the length, you can divide the stalk into five- or six-inch pieces.

Dip the bottom end in rooting hormone, then wrap each piece in a moist paper towel. Place each wrapped section in a zipper bag, and set the bags somewhere warm, around 60 to 70°F, with bright, indirect light.

Keep the towels moist. If they start to turn dark or smell off, replace them.

From Divisions

This is the easiest, most reliable method and the one I recommend for beginners.

Terrestrial orchids like Spathoglottis divide readily. Just gently expose the roots, and separate a section that has both healthy roots and stems attached.

Replant as described below.

Our guide to growing terrestrial orchids has more information about this process.

Transplanting

When you’re ready to move a potted plant into the ground, dig a hole that’s twice as wide and the same depth as the container.

Gently remove the plant, loosen up the roots, and place it in the hole.

Make sure the top of the bulb stays above the soil surface. Burying it can lead to rot.

Backfill with the removed soil, water well, and you’re done.

Pests and Disease

Spathoglottis orchids are tougher than many of their more delicate cousins.

That adaptability is part of what makes them so appealing and why they sometimes spread a little too enthusiastically in ideal conditions.

In my experience, indoor plants tend to be a bit more sensitive, especially when grown in less-than-ideal conditions.

Pests are usually more of a nuisance than anything. But diseases can threaten your plants. There are just a few things to know about.

Pests

Spider mites are the main pest you’ll encounter, whether indoors or out.

These tiny arachnids suck the sap from leaves, causing yellowing, stippling, stunted growth, and eventually, plant collapse if left unchecked.

For more serious outbreaks, especially outdoors, break out the insecticidal soap.

We cover control options in detail in our guide to managing spider mites.

Learn more about orchid pests here.

Disease

Diseases have the potential to rapidly go from bad to really, really bad. The second you suspect something is happening, you need to take action.

Anthracnose

Anthracnose (caused by Colletotrichum species) is the most common foliar disease.

It shows up as black or dark brown circular spots on the leaves, often with a lighter tan center. Leaf tips may also darken and die back.

This fungus thrives in moist conditions, so spacing plants well, watering at the soil level, and avoiding overwatering are your best defenses.

If symptoms appear, prune away the affected areas and treat the plant with copper fungicide.

It won’t cure the disease, but it can stop it from spreading. Repeat treatment every other month and keep the environment dry to discourage reinfection.

Rot

Crown rot isn’t as common in Spathoglottis as it is in moth orchids or cattleyas, but root rot is definitely a concern. Both are usually the result of overwatering.

Aboveground, you’ll see collapsing leaves that turn dark or mushy. Underground, the roots will rot and turn black.

Outdoors, reduce watering and apply copper fungicide to the soil every two weeks until the symptoms stop.

For container-grown plants, remove the orchid from its pot, discard all the old soil, and clean the container with hot, soapy water.

Trim away any mushy roots, cutting about an inch into healthy tissue.

Repot in fresh, well-draining medium and adjust your watering habits to prevent a repeat infection.

Learn more about crown rot in orchids here.

The Unfussy Orchid With a Glorious Display

An orchid that can act as a ground cover? One that spreads to fill space and thrives indoors without a lot of fuss?

I can’t recommend Spathoglottis highly enough to orchid lovers. You can enjoy all the unique beauty without the usual stress of wondering how long it’s going to survive. Or is that just me thinking too much about my plants?

Will yours go in the garden, or take center stage in your home? Let me know how you plan to make Spathoglottis part of your space, drop a note in the comments section below.

And for more information about the fascinating world of orchid growing, add these guides to your reading list next:

• 23 of the Best Types of Orchids to Grow as Houseplants
• How to Grow and Care for Vanda Orchids
• Discover the Native Orchids of North America
• Orchids 101: How to Grow and Care for Orchids