How to Grow and Care for Claret Cup Cactus

Echinocereus triglochidiatus

Cold-hardy claret cup cactus, Echinocereus triglochidiatus, aka kingcup or scarlet hedgehog cactus, is the state cactus of Colorado.

Well adapted to the harsh climates of the southwest this species is suited to cultivation in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 to 10.

Mature dimensions are 12 to 24 inches tall and wide, consisting of mounding cylindrical stems covered in long, sharp, angled spines.

A close up horizontal image of a clump of claret cup cacti in full bloom with bright red flowers growing in a rocky garden.

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The scarlet blossoms are a spring-to-summer celebration, punctuating the sandy stretches and rocky outcroppings of the American Southwest and adjoining Mexico.

Unlike many cactus blooms that close at night, the flowers of the claret cup remain open, providing nectar to hummingbirds that arrive at dawn and dusk.

After blooming, the plants produce reddish fruits that provide food for desert birds and wildlife.

This guide discusses everything you need to know to grow E. triglochidiatus outdoors or as a houseplant. Here’s what we’ll cover:

The genus Echinocereus includes about 70 flowering species commonly called hedgehog cacti, named for their resemblance to the spiny little mammals.

There are two subspecies of E. triglochidiatus. The nominate form, E. triglochidiatus ssp. triglochidiatus, grows in the eastern portion of its range and has larger, flat-sided spines but fewer of them.

A close up top-down image of a clump of claret cup cacti growing wild, with bright red flowers among the spines.

By contrast, E. triglochidiatus ssp. mojavensis, found farther west, bears a mix of curly and straight spines.

Other hedgehog cacti are sometimes confused with claret cup. E. coccineus has twice the usual number of chromosomes, producing larger flowers and taller stems in dense clumps.

Its blossoms are orange-hued rather than true scarlet, and the spines are rounder. Naturally occurring variants such as E. coccineus var. paucispinus and var. arizonicus are also found in the wild.

Another relative, E. polyacanthus, has more numerous spines that are less angled, with uniformly cylindrical stems and deeper red flowers.

In addition to red and orange-red claret cup varieties, there are hedgehog cacti with yellow and magenta cup-like blossoms.

Quick Look

Common name(s): Claret cup, hedgehog, kingcup, Mojave mound, red-flowered or scarlet hedgehog

Plant type: Cactus

Hardiness (USDA Zone): 5-10 (outdoors)

Native to: Southwestern United States, northern Mexico

Bloom time / season: Spring to summer

Exposure: Full-sun, part-sun

Soil type: Loose, sandy loam, well-draining

Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, slightly acidic to neutral

Time to maturity: 5-10 years

Mature size: 12 to 24 inches tall and wide

Best uses: Beds, borders, containers, houseplant, rock gardens, xeriscapes

Taxonomy

Order: Caryophyllales

Family: Cactaceae

Genus: Echinocereus

Species: Triglochidiatus, polyacanthus, coccineus

One of the interesting features of claret cup is its growth habit. Plants expand slowly over time into dense, mounded colonies that may contain dozens of stems.

In the wild, these can spread several feet across, creating striking patches of color when they burst into bloom all at once.

This clumping habit also helps buffer individual stems from temperature swings and intense desert sun.

A close up horizontal image of bright red claret cup cactus flowers pictured in light sunshine.

The flowers themselves are perfectly adapted to their pollinators.

Their funnel shape accommodates the long bills of hummingbirds, their main pollinator, while also allowing bees and other insects to reach the pollen.

The scarlet display is not just a feast for the eyes, but also a lifeline for wildlife.

Whether grown as a container feature, mixed bed specimen, rock garden showstopper, walkway edging, or xeriscape staple, claret cup earns its keep with a spectacular display that requires little care.

How to Grow

Under ideal conditions, claret cup blooms beautifully. Outdoors, the natural cycle of cold-induced dormancy helps trigger reproduction.

A close up of a hedgehog cactus with long, arching spines, growing in a pot indoors.

Indoors, this process can be mimicked by placing pots in a cool environment between 45 and 55°F from fall until spring.

Cultivation is easy when you meet the following cultural requirements:

Climate

Claret cup is drought-tolerant, cold-hardy to -20°F, and accustomed to hot, dry climates. It is ill-suited to humid, wet environments and does not perform well in these conditions.

This species can be grown outdoors in Zones 5 to 10.

Light

In the wild, seedlings often grow near nurse plants, like the fourwing saltbush, Atriplex canescens, which provide shade, moisture, and improved soil conditions.

As claret cup matures, it benefits from full sun exposure. Aim for six to eight hours of direct light daily to encourage strong growth and abundant flowering.

Soil

The ideal soil is well-drained sandy loam with a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 6.0 to 7.0, but lean, rocky conditions are well-tolerated.

To improve drainage, you can add horticultural sand or gravel to garden soil. Planting in soil mounded three or four inches above ground level also helps facilitate excess water runoff.

Container plants do well in a loose, light cacti and succulent potting mix that contains sand or perlite for aeration and good drainage.

You can learn to make your own potting soil for cacti here.

Water

Check soil moisture with a moisture meter or your finger before watering. For in-ground plants, water when the top two to three inches of soil are dry.

Container specimens should be allowed to dry completely between thorough soakings.

During dormancy, water only sparingly. Always avoid wetting the stems and crown directly, as lingering moisture can invite rot.

Fertilizer

It’s not necessary to fertilize in-ground cacti growing in sandy loam. If your soil is poor and plants are not performing well, amend the soil with organic matter such as compost.

For container plants, apply a liquid cactus and succulent food diluted to half-strength in early spring.

Where to Buy

As mentioned, you’ll find variations among plants called claret cup cactus. When shopping, read all descriptions carefully to determine the flower color and mature dimensions.

Nurseries with a good selection of cacti and succulents may stock this species or you can shop online.

Claret Cup Cactus

You can find bare root claret cup cactus available via Amazon.

Maintenance

Claret cup cactus requires little in the way of upkeep.

Pruning is rarely necessary, though you can remove damaged or dead stems by cutting them cleanly at the base with sterilized shears, taking care not to injure neighboring stems.

A close up horizontal image of bright claret cup cactus flowers growing in the landscape.

Container plants grow slowly and require infrequent repotting. They like a snug fit, one to two inches wider and deeper than the root mass.

While claret cup is impressively cold-hardy outdoors, it evolved in regions with dry winters. In areas where winter brings extended rain or snow, ensure excellent drainage.

Young plants in particular benefit from added protection, such as cloches or temporary covers, to shield them from excess moisture.

Propagation

To start growing, you’ll need to purchase or harvest seeds, divide an existing cactus mound, or purchase a potted specimen.

A close up horizontal image of the cylindrical stems of a claret cup cactus growing in rocky soil.

Let’s discuss.

From Seed

After the flowers fade, fruits form. They have deciduous spines that detach during the ripening process. When ripe, the fruits are a food source for wildlife and a seed source for growers.

To remove the seeds from the ripe reddish fruit:

  1. Wear protective gloves to avoid contact with any remaining spines.
  2. Gently twist the fruit to detach it and slice the fruit in half.
  3. Scoop out the flesh and place it in a mesh strainer. 
  4. Use the back of a spoon to press the pulp through the strainer and retain the seeds.
  5. Rinse the seeds well and spread on a clean paper towel in a single layer to dry out.
  6. Store the dry seeds in an airtight jar in a cool, dry place until the following spring, they don’t require cold stratification.

In spring, fill a seed tray three-quarters of the way with moist cactus and succulent potting mix.

Surface sow several seeds per cell.

Cover the tray with clear plastic wrap and place it in bright, indirect sunlight. The plastic creates a greenhouse effect, and there is no need to water.

When the seeds sprout, remove the wrap and keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy.

Allow the seedlings to grow until they are at least an inch tall and have spines. Thin them to one per cell.

Alternatively you can scatter a few seeds over moist garden soil every 12 to 24 inches. Do not bury them.

Maintain even moisture without oversaturation.

By Division

Offsets, aka daughters or pups, are stems that grow beside a parent stem. We can divide them in the spring to start new plants.

If you have a clump of cacti in the garden, you can separate one or more cylinders with the roots attached to plant elsewhere.

Here’s how:

  1. Wear thick gloves.
  2. Use a clean garden shovel to dig around and about four to six inches below the outer cylinders in the mound.
  3. Use your fingers to gently separate the desired number of stems from the parent. Each must have roots attached.
  4. Tamp the soil back around the parent mound.
  5. Transplant the division(s) immediately as discussed below.
  6. To divide a potted specimen, unpot the plant and brush away the soil from the roots. Separate the offsets, making sure each has roots attached.
  7. Add potting mix to the original pot to fill the gap created.

Transplant the offsets immediately.

Learn more about how to propagate cacti here.

Transplanting

Transplant claret cup in spring during its active growth phase.

In the garden, prepare loose, well-draining soil and set seedlings or divisions 12 to 24 inches apart, positioned slightly above ground level to prevent waterlogging.

Tamp the soil firmly to stabilize each plant, and wait a week before the first watering. Thereafter, water only when the top two to three inches of soil are dry.

For container growing, choose pots just one to two inches larger than the root mass and fill them two-thirds with cactus mix amended with sand or perlite.

Place seedlings or divisions at the same depth they were previously growing, backfill, and firm the soil to hold them upright.

Avoid planting too deeply, as this can lead to rot, and follow the same watering schedule used for in-ground plants.

Pests and Disease

As is typical of cactus species, sapsucking pests may feed on the stems, especially when grown indoors.

Mealybugs favor dry conditions, while spider mites, scale, and fungus gnats prefer high humidity. Fungus gnats may feed on the roots if the soil is too fertile and consistently damp.

Avoid under- and overwatering. Treat sapsucker-infested plants with organic insecticidal neem oil.

Overly moist conditions may cause rotting that starts at the roots and moves upward, turning stems brown, malodorous, and soft.

Avoid cultivating in locations with high humidity and poor drainage. Take care when watering to allow the soil to dry out.

You may be able to salvage unaffected rooted portions for replanting. Or, slice off a portion of an unaffected stem to callus-off and replant.

Cheers to Claret Cup

The bold red and orange-red blossoms of claret cup cactus light up desertscapes from spring to summer.

Easy to care for indoors and out, this delightful, water-wise cactus is something to celebrate.

A close up horizontal image of claret cup cactus growing wild in a desert region, just starting to bloom.

Isn’t it time for a new addition to your houseplant family or outdoor living space?

Are you growing claret cup cactus? Let us know in the comments section below, and feel free to share a picture!

And for more information about growing cacti in your home or garden, add these guides to your reading list next:

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About

Nan Schiller is a writer with deep roots in the soil of southeastern Pennsylvania. Her background includes landscape and floral design, a BS in business from Villanova University, and a Certificate of Merit in floral design from Longwood Gardens. An advocate of organic gardening with native plants, she’s always got dirt under her nails and freckles on her nose. With wit and hopefully some wisdom, she shares what she’s learned and is always ready to dig into a new project!

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