How to Grow and Care for Redwood Trees

Sequoioideae subfamily

If you wanted to enjoy a redwood tree in the past, you probably thought you had to hop in a car or on a plane and head to the California coast, where towering Sequoia sempervirens reach skyward in ancient groves.

But redwoods of all kinds are beginning to find a home in gardens around the world. I still remember the first time I spotted one growing in someone’s yard. That looks like a redwood, I thought. But could it really be thriving here in Washington state? It was.

Admittedly, some of these trees can be a bit too large for the average yard, since they are well known as some of the tallest trees on the planet.

But not all members of the Sequoioideae subfamily need acres of space. There are species and cultivars that are surprisingly well-suited to landscape use.

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With their conical shape, reddish bark, and broad base, redwoods are instantly recognizable. When young, the bark is somewhat smooth, becoming deeply fissured with age.

That bark is part of what makes these trees so majestic and unique. I can’t walk by one without wanting to run my hands along the trunk.

Imagine having one in your garden. Let’s make it happen. Here’s how:

Redwoods are coniferous trees in the Sequoioideae subfamily. They share a generally similar appearance and growing requirements, though each species has its own unique traits.

This guide will focus on the species that are best suited to home landscapes, particularly the dawn redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides).

That said, if you live in the right climate, you can absolutely grow a coastal redwood (S. sempervirens), too.

Keep in mind that the coastal species thrives in cool, humid climates. They absorb much of their moisture from the air, which is why they’re often found in foggy environments.

These towering trees are native to drier areas at higher-elevations than the coastal species, though they still prefer cool temperatures.

Then there’s the dawn redwood. The genus name Metasequoia means “sequoia-like,” and they do indeed resemble their close cousins.

But they’re far easier to grow than the coast or giant species, and they bring a unique twist. Unlike most conifers, this species is deciduous.

Along with larches (Larix spp.) and bald cypress (Taxodium distichum), dawn redwoods are among the few conifers that drop their needles in fall and grow new foliage in spring.

The soft, feathery needles emerge a deep green and turn a lovely bronze-red in autumn before falling.

The needles on all types are soft to the touch, which means you can plant them near a patio or walkway without fear of being stabbed by sharp needles.

These trees thrive in moist soil and are extremely large. In the wild, they’re endangered and face threats from poachers, fire, and habitat loss.

Dawn redwoods are hardy in Zones 4 to 8, giants in Zones 6 to 9, and coast in Zones 7 to 10. While both coastal and giant species are native to North America, dawn redwoods hail from China.

Fossil evidence shows that dawn redwoods were once widespread across the Northern Hemisphere, but they were believed to be extinct until 1941. That year, a forester named T. Kan discovered a living specimen near Modaoqi, China.

Soon after, a team of botanists and redwood enthusiasts journeyed to the region and found thousands of dawn redwoods growing in low-lying rice fields.

These trees were being used for timber and fodder, and the landscape had likely once supported far more before agricultural development.

Specimens were collected, and in 1947 the Arnold Arboretum of Harvard University sponsored an expedition to gather seeds.

Many of the dawn redwoods grown today descend from those original collections, which were shared widely with institutions and gardeners around the world. Some of the earliest specimens still thrive at the Missouri Botanical Garden, in front of the Lehmann Building.

Thanks to this distribution effort, this species is now widely available and easy to grow. Here’s how:

How to Grow

Redwoods tolerate some pretty challenging conditions, like road salt, pollution, and occasional flooding.

What they don’t handle well is extreme heat, prolonged drought, or excessive humidity. Let’s break down what they need to thrive:

Climate

Coast types prefer mild conditions with temperatures typically ranging between 35 and 95°F. They can handle temperatures just outside this range, but prolonged cold or heat may take its toll.

Giants are a bit more cold-tolerant, surviving winter lows of about 15°F.

Dawn redwoods are the hardiest, they can thrive in regions with frigid winters, tolerating temperatures as low as -30°F and they’ll remain happy up to around 85°F.

Occasional heat spikes beyond that are fine, especially once established.

Light

Young specimens benefit from partial sun, especially in hot climates.

Dawn redwoods in particular may suffer from scorched foliage if planted in full sun in regions with intense summer heat.

Some afternoon shade can help protect young trees until they grow tall enough to rise above neighboring vegetation.

In cooler regions, full sun is ideal, especially for dawn redwoods, which will reward you with more vivid bronze-red fall color if they receive ample sunlight.

Those grown in partial shade may show more muted foliage in autumn.

Soil

All redwood species prefer slightly acidic, humus-rich soil with good drainage. A bit of sand in the mix is welcome, but heavy clay or compacted soils are not.

As they mature, their own canopy will help shade the root zone.

Avoid planting in compacted, poorly draining, or alkaline soils.

Water

No matter the species, you want to keep the soil moist at all times. It’s not the end of the world if the soil dries out temporarily, but extended drought is a problem.

Keep the soil consistently moist, especially when trees are young. Water deeply when the top few inches of soil begin to dry out.

These trees can also tolerate occasional flooding and excess moisture, so they’re pretty adaptable.

Coast types are happy with up to 122 inches of annual rain and lots of humidity, with most of it occurring in the winter. Giant redwoods need less water, up to 55 inches per year, with most rainfall happening in the winter.

If natural rainfall isn’t sufficient, mimic these patterns by irrigating more frequently during the cool months and reducing water in the summer, allowing the soil to dry out slightly between waterings.

Dawn redwoods are highly adaptable. While they prefer consistently moist soil, they’ll tolerate temporary drought and even some standing water.

Fertilizing

Before applying any fertilizer, it’s always a good idea to do a soil test. It’s easy and affordable, and your local extension office can help guide you through the process.

A soil test will reveal what nutrients are already present and help you avoid overfertilizing or applying unnecessary amendments. You’ll also receive tailored recommendations based on your regional soil conditions.

In general, healthy specimens don’t need regular feeding unless the soil is depleted. Let your test results guide you to make informed decisions that support long-term tree health.

Where to Buy

You can sometimes find these trees at a local nursery, especially if they do well in your region. Dawn redwoods are the most commonly available, and they’re also widely sold online.

Dawn Redwood

For example you can find the species available at Fast Growing Trees.

But if you want to dip your toe in some of the exceptional cultivars out there, here are a few we recommend:

Amber Glow

Amber Glow™ takes the majestic form of the dawn redwood and scales it down to a more manageable size.

Reaching just 40 feet tall and 20 feet wide, it fits beautifully into most home landscapes.

Amber Glow

The summer foliage is tinged with yellow and turns a gentle golden orange hue in the fall. Hardy in Zones 5 to 9.

You can find Amber Glow™ available at Fast Growing Trees.

Miss Grace

‘Miss Grace’ has an elegant, weeping habit that brings graceful movement to the garden.

Left unstaked, it forms a low, broad pyramid, growing up to 10 feet tall and three feet wide. With support, it can be trained into a more upright, cascading form.

The gray-green summer foliage gives way to a rich, deep orange in autumn.

This cultivar was discovered as a witches’-broom in New York and developed by Buchholz & Buchholz Nursery in Gaston, Oregon.

It was the first weeping dawn redwood introduced to the market and is hardy in Zones 5 to 9. It even tolerates wet soil conditions.

North Light

If space is limited, consider ‘North Light.’

A low-maintenance option for Zones 5 to 9, ‘North Light’ provides reliable, ever-changing color in a pint-sized package.

Maintenance

I think one of the reasons conifers are so popular is that they need so little maintenance and redwoods are no exception.

Occasionally, a branch may die back or break during strong winds.

When that happens, simply prune it off using clean, sharp pruners, loppers, or a saw, depending on the size. You should also remove any branches that show signs of pest damage or disease.

The only other time you’ll need to break out the tools is during a tree’s early years, when you may want to shape it or encourage a specific form.

Pruning for structure is best done in early spring, just before new growth begins to emerge.

Propagation

Redwoods don’t graft reliably, but you can propagate them from seeds or cuttings. The easiest way to get started is to purchase a sapling from a nursery and transplant it into your garden.

If you come across a particularly beautiful specimen, consider collecting a cone or taking a cutting, with permission, of course, to start one of your own.

It’s always a good idea to start a few more trees than you think you’ll need. Germination and rooting rates can vary, and any extras make excellent gifts.

From Seed

It’s entirely possible to grow redwoods from seed, and many conservation groups and commercial nurseries rely on this method to preserve genetic diversity.

To start, harvest seeds from a mature cone and sow them in an appropriate medium. With time and care, a tiny seedling will emerge – your first step toward a towering tree.

Follow the steps in our guide to growing pines from seed and you’ll be on your way.

From Cuttings

Cuttings provide a faster route to a mature specimen. When you start from seed, it takes years longer for a tree to mature.

Take semi-hardwood cuttings from the end of a branch in late spring or early summer, just as the new growth has started to harden.

Aim for a piece that’s at least six inches long. Sprouts from the base of the tree often root best.

Strip the lower two-thirds of foliage from the cutting, leaving only a few leaves at the top.

Dip the cut end in rooting hormone, then insert it into a gallon-sized container filled with potting mix. Firm the soil around the cutting to hold it upright.

Transplanting

Whether you’ve started your redwood from seed, rooted a cutting, or purchased a young tree from a nursery, eventually it’s time to plant it in the ground.

Select a site that offers plenty of space. Redwoods are not foundation plants.

I once watched a 100-foot redwood topple in a storm, planted far too close to a house, it had grown at an angle reaching for light and eventually fell during a heavy wind and ice event, crushing two cars. Don’t let that be you.

Dig a hole twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball. This gives you room to spread the roots and ensures they aren’t compacted in the planting zone.

Remove the plant from its container and gently tease the roots outward. If the roots are spiraled or tightly packed, loosening them will help prevent future girdling or root binding that can damage or kill the tree.

Pests and Disease

Planted in the right conditions and with the right care, these trees are pretty much untroubled by pests and disease.

Encountering problems is rare unless the tree is planting in the wrong soil, climate, or receives too much or too little water.

Pests

With the climate warming, these impervious trees have recently begun to experience some pest troubles. Let’s talk about those.

Scale

Rarely, scale will feed on redwoods. These flat, oval insects suck the sap out of the tree using their straw-like mouthparts. This causes yellowing needles and reduced vigor.

There are three kinds of scale that attack these trees: black araucaria (Lindingaspis rossi), juniper (Carulaspis juniperi), and redwood scale (Aonidia shastae).

Regardless of the species, learn how to deal with them in our guide to scale.

Spider Mites

Is there any plant that isn’t susceptible to attack from spider mites?

Particularly in the dry summer season, spider mites spin fine webs on the tree and use their sucking mouthparts to draw out sap.

As they feed, needles turn yellow and drop and, with a large enough infestation, growth might be stunted.

Learn how to tackle spider mites here.

Bark Beetles

For a long time, redwoods were considered impervious to pests, protected by their thick bark and massive size.

But in recent years, bark beetles have begun to challenge even the oldest and most resilient trees.

If they can threaten giants that have stood for centuries, they can certainly impact your young backyard specimen.

Bark beetles have devastated conifer forests across the western US, and redwoods are now on the menu.

The primary culprits include the western cedar bark beetle (Phloeosinus punctatus), as well as P. cupressi and P. aubei, which also attack cedar and cypress.

These beetles tunnel beneath the bark of twigs, branches, and trunks, leaving behind telltale signs: oozing sap, small exit holes, and sawdust-like frass. If you peel back the bark, you’ll see winding galleries that resemble tangled spaghetti.

While a beetle infestation alone typically isn’t enough to kill a healthy tree, it can tip the scales when combined with stressors like drought or root damage.

Disease

Trees in a frequently soggy location might experience Phytophthora crown or root rot.

This disease needs moist conditions to thrive and often hitches a ride on infected plants from nurseries.

That’s why it’s always a good idea to isolate new plants for a few weeks before putting them in your garden.

Trees planted in poorly draining or consistently soggy soil may fall victim to Phytophthora crown or root rot. This fungal-like pathogen thrives in wet conditions and often spreads through infected nursery stock.

Symptoms of Phytophthora include sudden decline, dieback, or visible rot around the crown or roots. If you dig around the base and find mushy, discolored roots, your tree may be infected.

Unfortunately, there’s little you can do if the disease has progressed significantly. If caught early, however, you can try to improve drainage and treat the affected tree with a fungicide.

Products containing copper or the beneficial bacterium Bacillus subtilis are effective options.

I’ve found CEASE, a biofungicide that harnesses Bacillus subtilis, to be particularly effective against this and other common soilborne pathogens.

CEASE Biofungicide

It’s available in gallon and 2.5-gallon sizes at Arbico Organics.

Bring The Majesty of a Redwood Forest to Your Space

Walking through a redwood forest is an unforgettable experience, but even a single tree in a backyard setting can be just as majestic.

I’ve found myself stopping mid-stride to admire a redwood growing in a neighbor’s yard. These trees have a presence that’s hard to describe and impossible to ignore.

Whether you’re planting a dawn redwood for its manageable size and brilliant fall color, or making room for one of the true giants, you’re adding a piece of living history to your landscape.

Plus, once they mature, redwoods are remarkably self-sufficient. Is it the rugged red bark that draws you in? Their easygoing nature? Or the sheer grandeur of their height? Let us know in the comments section below!

And for more information about growing coniferous trees in your landscape, add these guides to your reading list next:

• How to Grow and Care for Colorado Blue Spruce
• How to Grow and Care for Japanese Black Pines
• How to Grow and Care for Norway Spruce Trees