Ribes × nidigrolaria
I grew up drinking Ribena – a sweet syrup made from black currants that’s popular in Europe and widely available at Canadian grocery stores.
I’m always expecting black currants to taste like the drink of my childhood – super sweet.
They’re not of course, but a lesser-known fruit called jostaberry (Ribes x nidigrolaria) comes pretty close to recreating that flavor.

Jostaberry – pronounced “yosta-berry” – is a hybrid cross between three species: the European gooseberry (R. uva-crispa), North American coastal black gooseberry (R. divaricatum) and a black currant (R. nigrum).
It’s a deciduous fruiting shrub that thrives in cool, moist climates, making it perfect for northern gardeners.
In this guide we’re going to cover what you need to know to cultivate jostaberries in your landscape. Here’s what’s ahead:
What You’ll Learn
Jostaberry checks nearly every box for berry lovers.
It’s thornless, disease-resistant, easy to grow, and the fruits are packed with sweet, tangy flavor. The upright shrubs can grow up to eight feet tall and are hardy in USDA Zones 3 to 8.

Jostaberries taste like a gentler, less acidic version of black currants, while their appearance resembles that of gooseberries, though they are typically black or red and slightly smaller.
Beyond their appealing flavor, these berries are nutritious, providing both bioflavonoids and vitamin C.
Quick Look
Common name(s): Jostaberry
Plant type: Deciduous fruiting shrub
Hardiness (USDA Zone): 3-8
Native to: Cultivated hybrid
Bloom time / season: Spring blooms, summer fruits
Exposure: Full sun to part sun
Soil type: Organically-rich, loamy, well-draining
Soil pH: 5.5-7.0, slightly acidic to neutral
Time to maturity: 1-3 years
Spacing: 4-6 feet
Mature size: 5-6 feet wide x 5-6 feet high
Water Needs: Medium
Taxonomy
Order: Saxifragales
Family: Grossulariaceae
Genus: Ribes
Species: × nidigrolaria
Cultivars: Josta, Jostine, Jogranda
Jostaberries are resistant to white pine blister rust, a disease that has resulted in planting restrictions on many Ribes species in parts of the US.
Despite this resistance, they are still subject to the same restrictions in some eastern states.
Check with your local extension office before planting to ensure compliance with local regulations.
The shrubs are also resistant to a number of other diseases and pests which commonly affect currants and gooseberries such as powdery mildew, black currant leaf spot, and gall mites.
Jostaberry blooms in early spring, producing small flowers that appear singly or in clusters.

The blossoms range in color from burgundy to pink and white, adding subtle color to the garden while offering an early nectar source for pollinators.
The plants are self-fertile and will produce fruit without cross-pollination, but planting more than one cultivar can increase yields.
The jostaberry was bred by Dr. Rudolph Bauer in the 1970s in Cologne, Germany, who named the plant by combining the German words for currant (Johannisbeere) and gooseberry (Stachelbeere).
The first cultivars introduced to the U.S. in the 1990s were ‘Josta,’ ‘Jostine,’ and ‘Jogranda’ – the latter also sold as ‘Jostagranda’ or ‘Jostaki.’
While they remain more common in Europe than North America, efforts to breed improved jostaberry cultivars are underway which should mean more options in the future.
How to Grow
Jostaberry shrubs are fast-growing and low-maintenance. They’ll reward you with a generous harvest when grown in the right conditions.

Remember that although these plants are self-fertile, it’s best to grow two or more for the most abundant harvests.
Here’s how to give your plants the best start:
Light
Full sun will give you the most reliable fruit production, but these shrubs can also tolerate partial shade. In hotter regions, some afternoon shade can help reduce stress and prevent scorching.
Set plants four to six feet apart to allow for good air circulation and room to grow. Jostaberry shrubs can become quite large and upright, so give them space to stretch out.
Soil
These shrubs grow well in most soil types, but they thrive in nutrient-rich, well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH between 5.5 and 7.0.
Before planting, work in plenty of organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure.
If your soil is heavy or prone to waterlogging, amend it with grit or grow in a raised bed to improve drainage.
Water
Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. Drip irrigation works well to provide deep watering without soaking the foliage.
Avoid overhead watering, especially in humid climates, to reduce the risk of fungal disease.
Fertilizing
You don’t need to fertilize jostaberries if you grow them in organically-rich soil.
You can give the plants a side-dressing of well-rotted manure or compost in the spring and fall just to give them a boost.
Cultivars to Select
Several jostabery cultivars are available but they can be difficult to find in the US. Look at specialty nurseries or even plant swap events.

Here are some of the most common varieties you’ll come across:
Jogranda
Also sold as ‘Jostagranda’ or ‘Jostaki,’ this cultivar produces large, dark purple berries with a tangy, full-bodied flavor.
Fruit typically ripens from late July into early August, about two to three weeks after ‘Josta.’ Plants grow upright with slightly arching canes and produce reliably heavy crops.
Josta
‘Josta’ was the first widely released jostaberry cultivar, developed in Germany in the 1970s.
It produces medium-sized, deep purple to black fruit with a mildly sweet flavor and low acidity. Berries are typically ready to harvest in late June through mid-July.
Jostine
‘Jostine’ produces medium to large, dark purple berries with a full, complex flavor that leans more tart than sweet.
The fruit ripens a little later than ‘Josta,’ in mid- to late July, extending the harvest window. Plants are upright, vigorous, and reliably productive.
Maintenance
Jostaberry shrubs grow quickly, much like their currant and gooseberry cousins. They put on a surprising amount of growth in a single season, which makes annual pruning essential.
The best time to prune is in late winter or early spring, while the plant is still dormant and before bud break.

Start by removing any dead, damaged, or diseased wood right at the base.
Older stems, particularly those over three years old, should also be cut out, since they become less productive over time. Clearing away these older branches encourages new, vigorous growth.
Thin out stems that are crossing or crowded, especially near the center of the plant.
Opening up the canopy improves airflow and light penetration, which helps reduce the risk of disease. Any stems growing close to or along the ground should be removed as well.
Aim to maintain a mix of one-, two-, and three-year-old wood to ensure a consistent yield each year.
Always use clean, sharp tools and remove pruned material from the area to avoid spreading pests or pathogens.
Propagation
The easiest way to propagate jostaberry is by taking hardwood cuttings during the dormant season. This method is simple, reliable, and doesn’t require any special equipment.

To take hardwood cuttings, wait until late fall through late winter, after the leaves have dropped but before the buds break.
Select stems that grew during the previous summer and cut them into six-inch segments.
For each cutting, make a straight cut just below a bud at the bottom, and a slanted cut just above a bud at the top – this helps you keep track of which end goes in the soil.
Stick the cuttings about four inches deep and four inches apart in containers filled with potting mix. Water in well. Keep them in bright, indirect light and maintain even moisture in the soil.
Come spring, once they show signs of growth, you can transplant them into the garden.
Transplanting
Whether you’re working with rooted cuttings or nursery transplants, plant jostaberry in spring in colder regions once the soil is workable.
In milder climates, autumn transplanting is also an option.

Before planting, soak the roots in water for a few hours to keep them hydrated.
Then dig a hole twice as wide and slightly deeper than the root ball – about one to two inches deeper is ideal. Place the plant in the hole, backfill with soil, firm it in, and water thoroughly.
After planting, prune the top growth back to about 10 inches to encourage bushy new shoots.
Finish by applying two to four inches of mulch around the base, using compost, pine needles, or wood chips.
Just keep the mulch a few inches away from the crown to avoid trapping moisture against the stems.
Pests and Disease
Jostaberries are notably resistant to many common diseases that affect other Ribes species, such as powdery mildew, leaf spot, and white pine blister rust.
Depending where you live though, birds may be a problem.
Birds
Birds are naturally attracted to the sweet, ripe jostaberries and can significantly reduce your harvest if not managed properly.
To protect your crop, you can use netting or other methods as discussed in our guide to protecting blueberries from birds.
Pests
Insect pests may show up occasionally, the main culprits being aphids, currant worms, and cane borers.
Aphids can be despatched with a strong spray of water from the hose, or failing that, an application of neem oil or insecticidal soap.
The larvae of the imported currant worm can defoliate plants rapidly. Early detection is crucial. Handpick the larvae or use a biological control like Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) to manage outbreaks.
As the name suggests, cane borers bore into stems, causing wilting. Prune and destroy affected canes to prevent the spread.
Disease
You’re very unlikely to encounter any diseases when growing jostaberries. If you grow your plants in soggy water or have a habit of overwatering, they may succumb to root rot.
But this is easily prevented by planting in appropriate, well-draining soil.
Harvesting
I always wince when I see the price of currants at the farmer’s market – if you can even find them. Jostaberries? Forget it.
But when a single shrub can produce ten to twenty pounds of fruit in a season, it makes a lot of sense to grow your own.

Most jostaberries begin bearing fruit between their first and third year, depending on the age of the plant when it was planted and the specific cultivar.
Ripening time varies as well, typically falling between late June and early August.
Harvesting is simple. With no thorns to contend with, you can just reach in and pull the berries off one by one.
The fruit is easy to spot as it ripens to a deep red or nearly black hue, depending on the type.

Keep your freshly harvested berries in the fridge if you’re not eating them right away – they should keep for a week or more.
Jostaberries freeze well – just pop them in a sealed plastic bag and put them in the freezer to use later.
A popular way to enjoy these fruits is to make them into preserves like jams or chutneys. And like my much-loved Ribena syrup, jostaberry juice is equally wonderful.
You can even experiment with jostaberry liqueur if you’re so inclined.
Cooking Ideas
If you love that distinctive black currant flavor, but wish it were a tad more subtle, then jostaberries are absolutely ideal.
Their mild flavor is what makes them appealing for fresh eating – whether it’s straight off the bush or mixed in with plain yogurt.

These berries are a wonderful addition to all kinds of baked goodies like pies, cakes, and muffins. They can also be added to smoothies, cocktails, or ice cream.
The Best of Both Bushes
Jostaberry brings together the best features of gooseberries and black currants in one awesome shrub.
They’re super disease resistant, provide nutritious yummy berries, and don’t take a lot of effort to grow.
Are you growing jostaberries? Let me know in the comments below!
And for more information about growing berries in your garden, check out these guides next:

Great article, Alicja! Thanks. I’m in zone 5b in coastal Alaska and planted 2 small nursery jostaberries this summer. I’ve never seen them growing, nor grown other berries, so am not sure if my plants are “sick” now or normal. We had terrible winds before I got them planted (against a rock wall, full sun) and all the blossoms were blown off. They never seemed to thrive and seem spindly. Now they’ve lost almost all leaves, but the stems are green when I scratch the surface lightly. Should I hard prune and hope for the best next spring? Otherwise, what?… Read more »
It sounds like your jostaberries are stressed but not dead – green stems are a good sign. Leaf drop can be normal in fall or caused by transplant shock, wind damage, or poor root establishment. I wouldn’t prune hard now, wait until late winter or early spring, then remove any dead or damaged growth. Mulch now and protect from wind if possible. Hopefully they’ll bounce back next year!