How to Grow and Care for Hyacinth Bean Vines

Lablab purpureus

Gardeners with day jobs aren’t the only ones who multitask.

The fast-growing hyacinth bean vine functions as an ornamental plant, food source, and butterfly magnet, and even works as a beautiful privacy fence.

And somehow it does all that with minimal soil requirements, almost no maintenance, and very little expenditure of Ye Olde Gardening Budget.

This member of the legume family, formerly classified as Dolichos lablab, costs little to grow and requires only average soil. It will thank you for ample water and great drainage, though.

A vertical close up picture of the vivid purple flowers of the hyacinth bean vine growing in the garden in bright sunshine. To the center and bottom of the frame is green and white text.

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If you keep it moist but not soggy, instead of drooping in the heat like so many annual flowering vines, it will reward you with a growth spurt in early summer, and with blooms and pods all summer long.

What Is Hyacinth Bean Vine?

A beloved cultivar still grown at Monticello, the historic home of third president of the US, Thomas Jefferson, the hyacinth bean first shows off with violet-tinged green leaves, each with three leaflets in an oval or triangle formation.

A close up of dark purple beans of the Lablab purpureus vine growing in the garden in light sunshine fading to soft focus in the background.

It then blooms profusely, with flowers that resemble sweet peas in purple, white, rose, or light red hues.

These clusters grow on short stalks and later form purple pods that are just as gorgeous. Each pod is three to six inches long, and contrasts dramatically with the foliage.

Want to start your own celebration of purple? Read on to learn how hyacinth beans can benefit your home and garden at every stage.

Are Hyacinth Beans Poisonous?

There is one drawback to growing hyacinth beans as part of a vegetable plot.

While you can enjoy the young shoots or the blooms as salad extras or edible garnishes, the mature or dried beans are toxic.

A close up of green seed pods with purple edging and light purple flowers of the Lablab purpureus vine pictured in bright sunshine growing in the garden.

The culprit is the mature hyacinth bean’s cyanogenic glucoside levels.

To bring them down to a level that won’t cause vomiting, breathing problems, and possibly seizures, you must soak the beans and cook them in two changes of water.

Please use extreme caution if you plan to attempt this.

Only properly (and repeatedly) cooked mature hyacinth beans are edible, and cooks will tell you they also produce a pretty strong odor during the process.

If you’re interested in hyacinth beans as a food source, you do have options.

You may want to enjoy only the young shoots or blossoms – both are edible, and make a great addition to salads or soups.

Cultivation and History

Hyacinth beans originated in tropical regions of Africa, and date back to the New Stone Age in India, as well.

Certain cultivars are still grown and cooked in both areas, and in the tropics of Asia and Australia.

A close up of Lablab purpureus seeds, removed from the pod. The beans are reddish-brown in color with a large white stripe.

People in these countries eat young hyacinth bean pods raw or steamed, and in Asia both the beans and flowers are often used to make noodles, or a fermented product comparable to soybean tofu.

In India, the leaves are sometimes added to curries.

In America, hyacinth beans are commonly associated with Thomas Jefferson.

These beans, or perhaps another twining vine that resembled them, were grown in 1812 at his Virginia plantation, Monticello.

Today, an arbor of hyacinth beans still produces abundant purple pea flowers and fat magenta bean pods in a corner of the historic home’s vegetable garden.

In modern times, hyacinth beans are most popular in the South, where they’re typically grown for their ornamental value and to provide shade and privacy.

How to Grow Hyacinth Bean Vines

Huge seeds, germination in 7-10 days, beautiful purple pods all summer and into the fall, growth spurts worthy of Jack and the Beanstalk… is it any wonder hyacinth beans are a hit with beginners, and gardeners who seek low maintenance plants?

A close up of a large Lablab purpureus vine with bright purple flowers and dark purple seed pods growing in the garden in bright sunshine.

These legumes don’t need a lot of fuss, either. Their only “must-haves” include full sun and ample water. The soil can be average, as long as it drains readily.

Not a true bean but a fellow member of the pea family, showy hyacinth bean vines are more drought resistant than typical pole beans, but only if the drought hits after the plants are fully established.

They’ll also grow through bouts of high temperatures, particularly when these involve humid heat.

A close up of a white flower of the Lablab purpureus growing up a brick wall in the light sunshine.

While they can be grown as perennials in USDA Hardiness Zones 10-11, most modern-day gardeners in the US tend to grow hyacinth beans as an annual.

Once they’re established, though, they’ll readily self-seed.

The only way for us home gardeners to grow hyacinth beans is to plant them from seed, either purchased or saved at the end of the growing season. You can’t take cuttings or divide existing plants.

A vertical close up picture of a Lablab purpureus vine growing in the garden with large purple bean pods surrounded by green foliage, fading to soft focus in the background.

Wait for settled spring weather with nighttime temperatures reliably and consistently above 50°F.

Plant the seeds an inch and a half deep, firm the soil over them, and keep it well watered. But don’t drown your plants!

You can also get a head start if your season is shorter than 90 days by starting the seeds indoors.

Time the planting for four weeks before your last expected frost date. Make sure you’ll be able to provide ample light until transplant time, which will be sometime after the air has warmed and temperatures at night are above 50°F.

Hyacinth bean vines are renowned for covering ugly spots, or twining up fences or over arbors to provide shade or privacy. But don’t leave this design to chance!

Select a spot where the vine can climb and establish its trellis or other support right when you plant the seeds. Otherwise, young plants will sprawl all over the ground or garden plot and quickly become entangled.

A vertical picture of a Lablab purpureus with flat green leaves and small white and purple flowers, growing in the garden in light sunshine, fading to soft focus in the background.

Make sure the support that you provide is sturdy and tall enough to hold 10 feet of vine with lots of side branches.

You may need to guide the young seedlings to the trellis initially. Once the vine twines through the support, though, it will attach itself as it continues to grow.

If the vine reaches the top of the support and it is still growing, it will double back to return to the earth. This creates that gorgeous canopy of leaves, blooms, and later pods.

At first, growth is gradual and mostly comprised of leaves. But as the weather warms up, hyacinth beans grow fast and furiously.

Expect blooms from mid- to late summer. Pods will start forming about 90 days after planting.

A close up of the bright pink and purple flowers of the Lablab purpureus vine on a soft focus background.

You may need to prune the vines for aesthetic purposes, or to keep them from growing too tall for your support.

They’ll never be candidates for razor-sharp topiary designs, but you can encourage hyacinth bean vines to be fuller and bushier by pinching back the seedlings after their first two or more sets of true leaves come in. This forces them to branch out.

When you notice flower production slowing in late summer, rejuvenate the vines and encourage a second round of blossoms by cutting each plant back to within six inches of the soil.

A close up of the seed pods and purple flowers of the Lablab purpureus vine growing in the garden in bright sunshine, fading to soft focus in the background.

You may feel ruthless, but the plants will quickly grow back and burst into a second show of glorious scent and color.

As with any pruning, do the chopping just above a bud node, and use a sharp tool that you’ve recently sanitized. Otherwise, you risk killing the plant or introducing a bacterial infection.

Managing Pests and Disease

For all their beauty and culinary value, hyacinth beans are not dainty. They’re not typically susceptible to any diseases, and pests tend to pass them by. Here are a few pests and problems that you may encounter:

Japanese Beetles and Longtail Skipper Butterflies

It’s rare, but Japanese beetles may munch on the leaves.

And as the preferred host plant for longtail skipper butterflies, you may find caterpillars gobbling the greenery, too.

Happily, a healthy plant will persevere through either attack, and will tend to grow more prolific and fuller leaves as a result – though you may need to use an insecticide if the beetles are too oppressive. Typically, this won’t be a problem.

Blight, Wilt, and Rust

Common blight is a bacterial disease that appears as water-soaked spots on the leaves, and these soon grow to larger patches. The water-soaked spots can also afflict the vine’s stems.

See if you can spot them on the lower nodes. Undetected, they’ll kill the vine by girdling the stem or making it so fragile it breaks in two in heavy rain or strong wind.

Fusarium wilt, caused by Fusarium oxysporum fungi, will turn the lower leaves yellow to start.

In a short while, this opportunistic fungal disease will attack the whole plant. It may also be the culprit if a young vine’s growth is stunted.

Rust disease, caused by a fungal parasite, can make a hyacinth bean plant look like it’s been burnt or scorched.

It attacks any and all tissue, from shoots and leaves to those pretty purple pods. Wilted leaves and undersized or gnarled pods can also signify rust.

To avoid all three of these potential diseases, make sure to plant and prune hyacinth beans where they’ll enjoy ample air circulation.

Fungal diseases thrive in moisture, so don’t water seedlings or vines from above. Avoid picking blooms or pods or weeding when the plants are wet.

If you have no other option but to try to grow hyacinth beans in partial shade, you may be courting an increased risk of fungal disease. You’ll definitely have slower growth and fewer blooms this way as well.

If blight or wilt does take hold, you won’t be able to completely overcome it. Applying a copper-based bactericide or a suitable fungicide every seven to 10 days can help to control the symptoms.

As for the suspected rust, this is one of the times when you should treat a hyacinth bean just like one of its legume relatives.

First, cut off any infected leaves or stalks using loppers or scissors dipped in a half-and-half mixture of bleach and water before making each cut.

Once the rusted plant tissue is gone, treat the remaining vine surfaces with generous applications of copper-based fungicide or neem oil. Subsequently, keep a keen eye on the vines to spot any rust recurrences before they get out of hand.

Growing Tips

  • Soak the seeds for 6-8 hours or overnight in warm water to speed germination.
  • These climbers need support, and a wooden lattice or wire fence is best suited for the job. If you don’t have a fence, consider wrapping chicken wire around pillars for this purpose.
  • To encourage young plants to start twining and growing up, up, and away, tie twine to the supports and guide the young tendrils to the twine by hand. It may take a couple of tries!
  • Don’t fret if a seed supplier includes fewer seeds than you’d expect in your order. You only need four or five plants to cover an entire arbor or fence. And if you save the seeds yourself, you’ll have loads to grow or share next year.

Where to Find Hyacinth Bean Vine Seeds

Seeds labeled simply “hyacinth beans” but without a cultivar specified are available from most major seed houses and online.

A close up of a branch of purple Lablab purpureus flowers with bean pods in the background, fading to soft focus.

Hyacinth Bean Seeds

You can find hyacinth bean seeds in a variety of packet sizes at Eden Brothers.

You can also find specific cultivars, like ‘Ruby Moon’ with its bicolor pink flowers and purple pods, from specialty and heirloom seed companies, and individuals who sell for a modest fee via the Seed Savers Exchange.

‘Silver Moon’ is a cultivar that produces white flowers and green pods.

A close up of the 'Silver Moon' variety of Lablab purpureus. White flowers are surrounded by large flat green leaves with flowers in soft focus in the background.

‘Silver Moon’

You can find packets of 10 seeds available at Burpee.

In some areas, greenhouses and small farms sell hyacinth bean transplants.

Or, if you’ve grown one set of hyacinth bean vines successfully, you may be able to provide your own seeds for next year.

A close up of the seed pods of the Lablab purpureus vine growing on dark purple branches in light sunshine on a green soft focus background.

Once they dry at season’s end, pods on mature plants will literally pour viable seeds onto the soil if you leave the vines in place.

If you don’t want volunteers to grow next year, be sure to pull the vines up when a frost kills them, or before they release all their seeds.

If you’re happy at the thought of hyacinth bean vines coming back in the same spot next year with no effort from you, just make sure you don’t disturb the soil around the expired vines until the new shoots start to show. And be prepared to thin!

Harvesting Tips and Best Uses

Another appealing thing about this purple beauty is you can enjoy its ornamental appeal on the vine, or harvest something of value throughout the growing season.

A vertical picture of a Lablab purpureus vine with small purple flowers and a large hedge and blue sky in the background.

The shoots, for example, are edible. Harvest them when the first couple of sets of true leaves have appeared, and eat them on the spot or add them to salads.

The young leaves can also be steamed like spinach. While the older leaves are technically edible, they’re pretty tough even after steaming or a saute.

A mature Lablab purpureus vine with large green leaves and purple flowers growing in bright sunshine in the garden.

Once the vines are pretty big, they also produce an edible, large, starchy tuber. You can eat these steamed or baked, similar to other root vegetables.

If you do want to try this unusual food that’s popular in Asia, wait to dig the tubers until towards the end of the season, since harvesting them will kill the plant.

In USDA Hardiness Zones 8-11, it may be possible to overwinter the roots in the ground for consumption.

A close up of a purple branch with light purple flowers of the Lablab purpureus vine, surrounded by large green leaves in soft focus in the background.

To try it, cut the vines to six inches from the soil and cover completely with a straw mulch.

The flowers are also edible, though you’ll want to make sure you don’t use any pesticides or herbicides if you intend to ingest these. They’re beautiful floating in a cream soup or on top of a salad.

Keep in mind that, like all edible flowers, you’ll want to pluck these literally minutes before you plate your food and eat, to maintain their freshness. You can read more about edible flowers on our sister site, Foodal.

A Note of Caution:

Mature hyacinth beans and pods contain cyanogenic glocosides, and they are toxic when raw. If you plan to consume them, be sure to consult an expert. Use caution and process them properly.

As for the pods, enthusiastic florists and amateur flower arrangers pick the stalks to use in arrangements after they’ve filled out, and before the seed pods start to get too plump or dry.

A close up of a light purple flower of the Lablab purpureus vine on a soft focus green background.

Because the stalks can grow to about 4 inches in length, “sprays” of magenta pods work well in floral arrangements set in shallow bowls or smaller vases, or they may be formed into all-natural napkin rings using twine.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:Tender perennial or annual flowering vineFlower / Foliage Color:Pink, purple, white; green
Native to:Sub-Saharan AfricaMaintenance:Low
Hardiness (USDA Zone):9-11, varies depending on cultivarTolerance:Drought, humid heat
Season:Summer/fall bloomWater Needs:Moderate
Exposure:Full sunSoil Type:Average, loamy
Time to Maturity:90 daysSoil pH:6.0-6.8
Spacing:6 inchesSoil Drainage:Well-draining
Planting Depth:1.5 inchesCompanion Planting:Marigolds, mums, salvia
Height:8-10 feet, up to 25 feet with supportUses:Cut flowers, edible flowers, privacy screen
Spread:3-6 feetFamily:Fabaceae
Growth Rate:FastGenus:Lablab (formerly Dolichos)
Attracts:Hummingbirds, butterflies, other pollinatorsSpecies:purpureus
Common Pests:Longtail skipper caterpillars, Japanese beetlesCommon Disease:Fusarium wilt, common blight, rust

Tap Into Purple Power!

Ready to welcome this fast-growing, showy vine to your garden?

Whether you’re determined to lure butterflies, or aiming for a dramatic arbor or beautiful privacy screen, the hyacinth bean will deliver quickly.

Remember to nibble a few of the sprouts, or scatter some blooms on a summer salad or dessert.

A close up of a Lablab purpureus vine growing in the garden, with large green leaves, purple flowers, and green seed pods, in bright sunshine.

Should you discover that this multitasking, twining beauty has another function not mentioned above, let us know in the comments.

And if this purple climber has intrigued you, check out these other flowering vines that will help you turn your garden into a beautiful and restful haven:

Photo of author


An avid raised bed vegetable gardener and former “Dirt to Fork” columnist for an alt-weekly newspaper in Knoxville, Tennessee, Rose Kennedy is dedicated to sharing tips that increase yields and minimize work. But she’s also open to garden magic, like the red-veined sorrel that took up residence in several square yards of what used to be her back lawn. She champions all pollinators, even carpenter bees. Her other enthusiasms include newbie gardeners, open-pollinated sunflowers, 15-foot-tall Italian climbing tomatoes, and the arbor her husband repurposed from a bread vendor’s display arch. More importantly, Rose loves a garden’s ability to make a well-kept manicure virtually impossible and revive the spirits, especially in tough times.

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Ruby (@guest_7391)
3 years ago

Will deer eat any part of the hyacinth bean vine? I would love to grow it but I don’t want to provide a salad for the deer. Thanks

Velvet (@guest_7512)
Reply to  Ruby
3 years ago

Deer do not eat hyacinth bean vine. I had an entire fence of the vine and a herd of deer visit regularly, but the vine is not to their liking ????

Buck (@guest_8061)
Reply to  Ruby
3 years ago

This is lab lab and it’s actually a popular plant for hunters to attract deer with

Christine Gaylor
Christine Gaylor (@guest_10611)
Reply to  Ruby
3 years ago

Deer ate the leaves of mine. Left the stems and pods.

Joyce (@guest_11181)
2 years ago

Live in Lake Havasu, Az zone 10a. Will they grow here?

Andrea (@guest_27470)
Reply to  Joyce
8 months ago

I would love to see how this plant did! I live in the same desert. Mine are all indoor babies at the moment. Thanks!

Patricia Preston
Patricia Preston (@guest_11530)
2 years ago

Thank you for all of the info. I found seeds but was hesitant to plant them. Was afraid they would turn out like the morning glories which took over everything and I can’t seem to get rid of. Any ideas how to get rid of these? Are the hyacinth bean plants toxic to dogs? Thanks for your help.

Mani (@guest_15957)
1 year ago

comment image

Any source to find this vareity of beans?

DRG (@guest_32847)
4 months ago

This all sounds so wonderful but it sure didn’t work for me. Zone 5a, soaked seeds til visibly sprouting and planted around base of mailbox post. None came up. Sprouted another packet of 8 – 10 seeds, planted them, two produced seedlings. Rich black Iowa soil, full sun, watered them every day as it has been a very hot dry summer and they’d wilt otherwise. Beautiful, graceful little plants but after 2 1/2 months in the ground (we’re now into August and I planted in May) one is just now sending one tendril about a foot high, the other is… Read more »

Tim Alexander
Tim Alexander (@guest_33857)
3 months ago

Love the quality of information you provide. Keep me posted.

Judy Clark
Judy Clark (@guest_35532)
2 months ago

If I want to harvest the seeds to plant the following spring, do I let the pods dry on the vine, or can I pick the pods and let them dry indoors?