How to Grow and Care for Pawpaw Trees

Asimina triloba

Have you heard of the pawpaw, Asimina triloba? It’s the largest native North American fruit, and it has a tropical flavor and custardy texture.

If you’re confused, that’s because there are other tropical fruits called pawpaw, including the papaya, Carica papaya, and the graviola, or soursop, Annona muricata.

Closeup of two pawpaw fruit on a branch, with a mottled green background, printed with white and maroon text.

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Unlike them, A. triloba grows in the temperate regions of USDA Hardiness Zones 5 to 9, and has three intriguing qualities:

  1. It is a hardy deciduous perennial that grows as either a tree or shrub.
  2. Fruit is optional because the plant does not self-pollinate.
  3. With or without fruit, its drooping golden leaves in fall and musky, maroon flowers in spring make for a striking and structural focal point.

Read on to discover a temperate zone fruit once so popular it was celebrated with song, and learn how to grow it in your home landscape.

Here’s what’s in store:

Consume with Caution

Also known as “Indiana banana,” “Quaker delight,” “Appalachian banana,” and “poor man’s banana,” the pawpaw is a member of the Annonaceae, or custard apple family that includes cherimoya, Annona cherimola, and graviola, aka soursop, A. muricata (mentioned above).

The seeds and flesh of a pawpaw fruit cut in half, set on a white surface.

And while the fruit has an appealing flavor, there are some people for whom consumption causes stomach upset. This is due to the chemical compound annonacin, which is also present in the bark and seeds.

The NC State Extension categorizes the level of toxicity from eating pawpaw as low, with the summary: “Fruit edible but some people suffer severe stomach and intestinal pain; skin irritation from handling fruit.”

In addition, the pulp and twigs contain acetogenins, metabolic compounds toxic to some cancer cells. However, Sloan Kettering advises its cancer patients: “There are no published clinical studies in humans to determine the safety of pawpaw for cancer treatment,” and goes on to warn patients who wish to consume the fruit that they may experience allergic reactions, neurotoxic effects, or vomiting if they do.

Pawpaw fruit perishes quickly after ripening, so it is not currently a commonplace grocery store commodity. Instead, it’s the domain of small-scale farmers and home growers who often supply it to farmers markets.

In addition to fresh fruit and frozen pulp, extracts are available in pill form for the purported purpose of boosting cell health.

Professor Bruce Bordelon, of the Department of Horticulture and Landscape Architecture at Purdue University, concurs with the warnings and says, “When it comes to pawpaw, perhaps it is best to enjoy the fruit in moderation.”

“Way Down Yonder”

At a length of up to six inches, the pawpaw is North America’s largest native fruit.

It’s an overlooked legacy from Mother Nature that harks back to gentler times, when bonneted girls and straw-hatted boys went fruit picking in bare feet on summer mornings.

Where, oh where is pretty little Susie?

Way down yonder in the pawpaw patch.

These old Appalachian lyrics have been sung around many a campfire, including the Girl Scout jamborees of my childhood. But although I was in prime pawpaw territory, I grew up with only the word, and not the sweet flavor, on my tongue.

So, what’s a pawpaw patch?

A. triloba is a plant that thrives in organically-rich areas along waterways, in woodlands, and on hillsides, where the ground is especially moist. It may have the habit of either a tree or a shrub.

As an understory plant, beneath the partial shade of deciduous trees, it is shrub-like. But in the full sunshine of open spaces, it’s a pyramid-shaped tree that may exceed 30 feet in height.

Both types generate suckers that grow into additional plants and eventually form a thicket of growth, or the proverbial patch.

Pawpaw Pioneers

My first physical encounter with this plant, no lie, was in my sister Susie’s backyard. Yes, after singing about them for years, she grew up and planted a patch of her own.

Healthy, emerald-green leaves of a pawpaw tree in a forest, pictured in light filtered sunshine on with trees and shrubs in soft focus in the background.

And in my area, the fruit is gaining popularity thanks to an organization called the Philadelphia Orchard Project that plants and supports community orchards in the city of Philadelphia.

Athens, Ohio grower Chris Chmiel runs Integration Acres, the “world’s largest pawpaw processing plant.”

I recently heard Chris speak as a guest on the Gastropod podcast, in an episode entitled “Pick a Pawpaw: America’s Forgotten Fruit.” Because the fruit is so perishable, his team picks, processes, and sells it frozen. Buyers include craft brewers.

Chris has revived interest in this under-cultivated fruit by founding the “largest pawpaw festival in the world” and sharing its folk culture.

It seems that the location of patches in the wild and the names of places in the “pawpaw belt” support the theory that Native Americans not only foraged for the fruit, but likely cultivated it as well.

Young, developing fruit on the branches of a pawpaw tree growing in the garden, pictured in light filtered sunshine on a soft focus background.

From Early American days to the beginning of the twentieth century, folks scooped the sweet flesh from ripe skins to make jams and puddings, finding it plentiful in the wild. Herbal practitioners used the toxic seeds, bark, and leaves in a range of homeopathic remedies, from insecticides to emetics.

In 1916, The Journal of Heredity’s Contest for the Best Pawpaws invited participants to send their local varieties to the American Genetic Association. Prizes were awarded for the best, and they were studied for possible propagation.

Over the years, the early pioneers of propagation died, commercial viability did not come to fruition, and research waned. Sadly, at least 35 cultivars identified between the 1890s and 1960s are now extinct.

A vertical close up picture of a pawpaw fruit hanging from a branch, with foliage to the right and left, pictured on a soft focus background.

It wasn’t until the 1970s that serious interest resurfaced. When West Virginia University plant genetics student Neal Peterson tasted the fruit, he was inspired to pick up where early researchers had left off.

In 1999, he partnered with Kentucky State University to conduct the Regional Variety Trial, with the cooperation of numerous universities, to evaluate cultivars for possible commercial production.

Today, Peterson continues his work, cultivating, researching, and teaching in the Kentucky State University Pawpaw Program, and Peterson’s Pawpaws are widely available for the home gardener. Large-scale commercial production remains a goal of the future.

A Patch of Your Own

Are you ready to revive a once-celebrated native fruit in your outdoor landscape?

A close up horizontal image of a ripe pawpaw fruit hanging from a branch, with large green leaves to the right and left, pictured on a soft focus background.

Here’s everything you need to know to ensure success.

Soil Requirements

For optimal results, you’ll need moist soil with a neutral to slightly acidic pH that is organically rich and drains well.

Contact your local extension office to have your soil tested, and adjust pH and add amendments like compost and nutrient-rich fertilizer per the instructions in your test report.

Location Selection

To grow a tree, choose a location in full sun. It should be somewhat sheltered, either by a nearby building, fence, or shrubbery, because high wind is known to damage pawpaw, permanently twisting its branches.

Mature dimensions may reach 30 feet tall and 20 feet wide, with compact branches for a conical shape.

For cultivation as a shrub, select a partially shaded location beneath a canopy of tall deciduous trees, where looser, sprawling growth has room to roam.

Pollination and Fruit

Decide whether you are interested in fruit, because pawpaw pollination poses a challenge.

The best method to ensure a fruit crop is to plant at least two totally different cultivars on your property (and three is even better), as well as an array of nectar-rich plants that attract pollinators. The pros at Peterson Pawpaws recommend planting trees no more than 30 feet apart.

A large purple flower on a tree of the American pawpaw, with blue sky in soft focus in the background.
The pawpaw tree’s unique flowers are a nice addition to the landscape.

The horticulturists at the Ladybird Johnson Wildflower Center in Texas explain that pawpaw produces many flowers that seldom self-pollinate, and are in fact, “self-incompatible.” Flies and beetles are the major pollinators of A. triloba, and growers have been known to hang roadkill from branches to attract as many flies as possible.

Another method of pollinating is to use a paintbrush and manually pollinate pawpaw blossoms of one variety with those of another, a technique that’s beyond the scope of this article.

Rodale’s Ultimate Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening says there’s an old cultivar called ‘Sunflower’ that doesn’t require cross-pollination, if you can find one!

Quality Plants for Best Results

After your site is selected and the soil prepared, it might be tempting to find a wild pawpaw patch and dig up a seedling to take home. This is not a good idea, for two reasons:

First, the plant has a long taproot that may be damaged.

Second, plants dug in the wild seldom transplant well to the home garden.

A vertical close up image of a pawpaw fruit hidden by the tree's leaves, in light filtered sunshine with shrubs in soft focus in the background.

Per Carla Emery, author of The Encyclopedia of Country Living, if you find some ripe fruit, simply put it in the ground whole and cover it with a thin layer of soil. If seeds sprout, thin them out later.

Like many seeds, those of A. triloba require a period of cold stratification to germinate. But unlike many seeds, they must be kept moist. So, planting whole fruits post-harvest in the fall addresses both issues.

However, even if they do grow, plants and fruit produced from wild seeds are likely to be inferior to today’s cultivars. These cultivated varieties are bred for desirable characteristics like disease resistance and exceptional fruit quality.

Also note that the seeds from modern varieties, particularly hybrids, produce uncertain results, and often bear no resemblance to a parent plant.

Another propagation method is to take a stem cutting (scion) from a tree or shrub, and graft it onto sturdy rootstock (clone).

Planting Directions

Spring and fall are the ideal times to put plants in the ground, when the trees are dormant. Here’s how:

  1. Trees should be planted 15 to 25 feet apart to ensure adequate space for growth, but close enough for pollination.
  2. Work the soil down about a foot until it’s loose and crumbly. You’ll want to make it deep enough (about as deep as the pot) so that the brittle tap root is not stressed, and wide enough that the entire root system is not compressed. You can amend with coconut coir fibers or peat moss if the soil is compacted.
  3. Unpot your plant and loosen the soil and any tangled roots.
  4. Place the plant with its dirt into the hole, making the top of the pot soil even with the ground soil.
  5. Tamp the soil down.
  6. Make a ridge of earth around the plant, and apply a layer of mulch to aid in moisture retention.
  7. Water thoroughly and keep the soil moist throughout the growing season.

Pests and Disease

Pawpaw is not prone to pests or disease, especially when you start with a plant that has been expertly bred.

Fungal or bacterial leafspot sometimes occurs on leaves that are too wet for too long, and may be treated with a copper-based fungicide. Be sure to choose one that is safe for use on edible fruit.

The pawpaw peduncle borer (Talponia plummeriana) is one of the few pests that specifically targets this species. The larvae consume portions of the flowers when the trees are blooming, which leads to a smaller crop.

Spider mites, hornworms, various caterpillars, and Japanese beetles can all attack the leaves.

Care and Maintenance

If you start from seed, it may take a couple of months before you see a sprout, because the long tap root grows first.

Water deeply once a week during the growing season, and more if rainfall is scant. You may apply a diluted all-purpose fertilizer to seedlings per package instructions.

A close up horizontal image of the unique flowers of a pawpaw tree hanging from a branch, pictured on a soft focus background.

The experts at University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Food, and Environment say that first-year seedlings are very sensitive to ultraviolet light and require shading from intense sun, as well as mulch and consistent watering during dry spells.

They also recommend that suckers, the new shoots beside the main trunk, be hand pulled, as opposed to being pruned or mowed, because the latter methods encourage more to grow. Of course, if you want a patch, leave them alone.

Similarly, fruit that falls and decays contains seeds that may sprout. Remove unwanted seedlings by hand pulling.

In spring, apply a layer of mulch to aid in keeping the soil moist. Pruning is not required, except to remove dead or damaged branches. However, as fruit sets on new growth, some people prune in an attempt to increase yields.

A pawpaw tree ripe with fruit.
The abundant fruit of a pawpaw tree.

You may fertilize mature trees and shrubs each spring with an all-purpose, slow-release granular fertilizer. Sprinkle it in a circle a few inches out from the base of plants. As weeds begin to grow in summer, clear them away to inhibit pests and disease.

Be patient when expecting fruit. It may take up to eight years before it appears, although some of the newest cultivars fruit much sooner. Take care to maintain even moisture while fruit sets, as a drought may cause it to suddenly drop off.

Where to Buy Pawpaw Trees

You can find pawpaw plants available in garden centers and online.

A square image of fruiting American pawpaw tree.

American Pawpaw

Fast Growing Trees carries one- to two- and three- to four-feet American pawpaw trees.

Remember that you will need two different varieties to produce a fruit harvest.

Harvesting Pawpaw Fruit

Fall is harvest time in the pawpaw patch. There is variation among the different cultivars, but September is generally peak pickin’ time.

A close up horizontal image of a harvest of pawpaw fruit ready for eating set on a blue surface.

This is when green fruits begin to soften, generally turning yellow and then brown.

It’s hard to know when to pick, and many folks use the time-honored technique of shaking the tree or shrub and taking home whatever falls off. Don’t pick too soon, because a pawpaw ripens best on the tree, and may not ripen further after harvesting.

You have about two days to consume your crop before it starts to rot, so don’t waste any time! Simply slice the fruit lengthwise, remove the seeds, and spoon up the sweet, creamy, yellow pulp for a truly tropical sensation.

Freeze any pulp you can’t consume fast enough. You can use it in everything from breads and cakes to mixed drinks, ice cream, and smoothies. I don’t recommend refrigeration because fruits picked ripe are on the verge of rotting, and emit a strong, albeit fragrant odor.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:Small, deciduous pyramidal fruit treeAttracts:Deer and other wildlife during fruiting
Native to:Temperate North AmericaTolerance:Partial shade
Hardiness (USDA Zone):5-9Maintenance:Low
Season:Fruits ripen from mid-august through October depending on cultivar and locationSoil Type:Fertile and loamy
Exposure:Full sun in northern growing zones, partially shaded in southern regionsSoil pH:5.5-7 (Slightly acidic)
Time to Maturity:5-8 years from seed, 3-4 years from potted transplants or grafted cuttingsSoil Drainage:Well-draining
Spacing:15 – 25 feetCompanion Planting:Other understory plants and shrubs such as blackberry for fruit production or flowering dogwood for aesthetics
Planting Depth:Same as nursery pot, or set crown of bare root stock just below the soil surface – be aware of brittle tap rootFamily:Annonaceae
Height:25 feet at maturityGenus:Asimina
Water Needs:ModerateSpecies:triloba
Common Pests:Pawpaw peduncle borer, papaya fruit fly, fruit eating wildlifeCommon Disease:Powdery mildew, black spot

See you in the pawpaw patch!

If you enjoyed this article, you may enjoy others on topics such as growing fruit trees, ornamental trees, and landscape shrubs.

And if you’re a native plant aficionado, you won’t want to miss our collection of true-blue wildflowers.

Photo of author

About

Nan Schiller is a writer with deep roots in the soil of southeastern Pennsylvania. Her background includes landscape and floral design, a BS in business from Villanova University, and a Certificate of Merit in floral design from Longwood Gardens. An advocate of organic gardening with native plants, she’s always got dirt under her nails and freckles on her nose. With wit and hopefully some wisdom, she shares what she’s learned and is always ready to dig into a new project!
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Mark Walker
Mark Walker (@guest_5293)
4 years ago

Nan,

I live in Baltimore, MD and am thinking of planting a fruit trees native to the states. Can you recommend a place to find PAW PAW and Persimmon trees. Iwould like to purchase some and possibly pick some fruit too.

Thanks
Mark

Susan Peterson
Susan Peterson (@guest_16910)
Reply to  Nan Schiller
1 year ago

I used to live in Baltimore, and there was a persimmon tree in the north border between my yard and the next. The persimmons were all borne very high up so we only got to eat a few that fell, but they were delicious! There is a vacant lot there now where my beautiful old Victorian used to be- it burned in 1986. I bet the tree is still there. The lot is what would be 3902 Old York Road. If you see a big holly tree, the persimmon is just past it. It did not fruit until late fall.

Dave
Dave (@guest_10067)
Reply to  Mark Walker
3 years ago

EdibleLandscaping.com in Virginia. Try the CHI-FRUIT too

diana
diana (@guest_5485)
4 years ago

I live in the Willamette Valley of western Oregon, and I want to know if it will grow here, which variety would grow best, and if they can become an invasive species if a few seeds escape my garden. The Northwest has had a terrible experience with English Ivy. Remember the old Star Trek episode about the Trouble With Tribbles–yeah, just like that!

Tye Dee
Tye Dee (@guest_5984)
4 years ago

Hi Nan,
Do you think that geological location can have any impact on the height a pawpaw can grow? You have a mature tree at 25 feet. In Hamilton, Ontario, Canada it’s been reported that a pawpaw can grow 5 feet higher. I don’t know how to link but here’s the source – https://devostree.ca/native-tree-of-the-week-pawpaw-tree/

Douglas Hooper
Douglas Hooper (@guest_6086)
3 years ago

I have 2 paw paw trees of differing varieties as was recommended. My problem is that they bloom at different times and can not cross pollinate. Will they sink up or do I have to get a 3rd tree?

Tree Farmer
Tree Farmer (@guest_10371)
Reply to  Douglas Hooper
3 years ago

Manual pollination is very easy, you may even be able to pick and refrigerate a few male flowers from the early tree and use later for the late bloomer? I manually pollinate mine every year and yet they manage to pollinate each other on the upper branches on their own. Best of luck!!!

Pawpaw male female Flower.jpg
cris
cris (@guest_35034)
Reply to  Douglas Hooper
6 months ago

I only have one tree and every season I get fruit

Mike
Mike (@guest_8173)
3 years ago

Nan,

I ordered a couple paw paw from an online nursery. I suspect it was due to all of the coronavirus issues, they delayed in shipping them and I don’t think they made it into the ground early enough. One is already dead and the other is wilting severely.

Do you have any advice that would help me to rescue the last one before it’s gone entirely?

Kari
Kari (@guest_8514)
3 years ago

Hi. My daughter bought me 2 young Pawpaw trees for mothers day this year. We followed the directions from the seller. I think we may have done something wrong because the trees seem to be dead. No new branches, no growth but they seem to be strongly rooted. We did container plant them. Do you have any recommendations on what to do? This is verymdistressing for me because I have been trying to get these trees for years but money was always tight.

Nan Schiller
Nan Schiller(@rellihcsnan)
Gardening Writer
Reply to  Kari
3 years ago

Hi Kari –
Pawpaws take time to adjust to transplant stress. The sturdy roots sound promising. Maintain even moisture, but don’t oversaturate. The pots should drain well. At this point, you may try applying a well-balanced, all-purpose, slow-release fertilizer per package instructions to give them a boost.

Tree Farmer
Tree Farmer (@guest_10372)
Reply to  Kari
3 years ago

Kari, seeds are fairly easy to start and very low cost (fleabay, etc) and transplant too when they are dormant. I found that using a long spade to sever the tap root late in the fall works great, just leave it alone to grow another season and it will develop more lateral roots. I have transplanted and sold/gifted countless seedlings when they are dormant, including starting them from seed in 1 gallon pots for planting later. The only ones I ever lost were grafted varieties purchased from a grower but planted where I could not water and tend them. Always… Read more »

Evelina
Evelina (@guest_8547)
3 years ago

Dear Nan,
I bought a few PawPaw trees 5’ tall last year, saw some flowers this spring but 0 fruit after words. Someone told me have flowers doesn’t mean will have fruit because it could be male one. Is that true?
Is possible I Grafting my existing Paw Paw to grow a few more ? Shipping from out of state had been very difficult .
Thank you for sharing your great knowledge about Paw Paw with us.

Evelina

Nan Schiller
Nan Schiller(@rellihcsnan)
Gardening Writer
Reply to  Evelina
3 years ago

Hello Evelina –
We’re glad you found the article informative.

As we discussed, pollination poses a challenge, so two different cultivars and a variety of nectar-rich plants that attract pollinators are recommended.

Tree Farmer
Tree Farmer (@guest_10373)
Reply to  Evelina
3 years ago

There are typically male and female flowers on the same tree. Use an artist paint brush (some claim a bird feather works well) and gather some pollen on the tip, go to the other tree(s) and apply the pollen to the glistening bulb of a female flower!

Pawpaw male female Flower.jpg
Lisa Dabbs
Lisa Dabbs (@guest_8962)
3 years ago

I don’t think it belongs to the Rosaceae family but to the Anonaceae family.

Theresa Alani
Theresa Alani (@guest_9046)
Reply to  Nan Schiller
3 years ago

Hi Nan, I was able to get some pawpaw seeds from the fruit we picked last October. I did the cold storage of the seeds for a couple of months and now, after planting in a large planter, I have five seedlings. Now WHAT? I got this far, I need some expert advice. I live in Kansas City. Thanks, Theresa

Haloka Marie
Haloka Marie (@guest_10359)
3 years ago

The romanticism in this article forgets my ancestors (Choctaw Nation, Muskogean, Woodlanders…) were in this hemisphere foraging for fruits some 60,000 years (archeological dates prove it) before Bonnie and her Bonnet arrived from the other hemispheres.
“America” didn’t forget the Paw Paw. White people just don’t like stinky trees. They just want instant delicious fruit.

Sigh.

Allison Sidhu
Allison Sidhu(@allison-sidhu)
Reply to  Haloka Marie
3 years ago

Thanks for your feedback, Haloka. Perhaps you didn’t read the whole article. Native people were actually mentioned as foragers and possible early cultivators of these native plants, though only briefly. And I’d argue that instant fruit is a rarity for those who wish to grow their own, whatever the variety.

The history that you mentioned is an important story that needs to be told! But we generally touch on history prior to cultivation only briefly in our growing guides.

Last edited 3 years ago by Allison Sidhu
Gavin
Gavin (@guest_11261)
3 years ago

Hi Nan,
I am thinking of planting a couple PawPaw trees at my home just on the other side of the Delaware from you in South Jersey. Is there an ideal time to plant them in the Spring to ensure the best success establishing these young trees?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts you can share!

Gavin